CIRCULAR SCRACHES???

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JOEHILL7

Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2008
Messages
61
Location
HENDERSON, NV
I AM NEW TO PEN TURNING HAVE COMPLETED ABOUT 50 PENS MOST ARE SLIMLINES AND SOME CIGARS. I NOTICED ON MY LAST PEN WHEN THE LIGHT HITS IT JUST RIGHT THERE SEEMS TO BE CICULAR SCRATCHES AND THEY BECOME MORE VISABLE UNDER A 4X LUPE. I WENT BACK AND CHECKED OTHER PENS SOME CIRCULAR SCRATCHES ARE VISABE ON SOME MORE OR LESS.
I WENT BACK AND RESANDED WITH 600, 800 , 1200 AND TRIPOLI. SCRACHES SEEMED TO BE GONE. REFINISED WITH MYLANDS SANDING SEALER AND MYLANDS FRICTION POLISH. SCRACHES RETURNED. I APPLY FRICTION POLISH WITH A PAPER TOWEL VERY LIGHT PRESSURE TIL HEAT IS FELT AN THEN I APPLY MORE PRESSURE.
ANY IDEAS ON THESE CIRCULAR SCRACHES? THEY RELATIVE INVISIBLE UNTIL LIGHT IS REFLECTED OFF THE BLANK.
JOE
 
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First, a note to ask if you can please turn your "ALL CAPS" off. That makes it harder to read and is also considered "rude" if more than a word or two for special emphasis. Thanks.

As to your problem, this is a somewhat common in new and intermediate stages with people with good eye-sight. At least you are noticing it. As to fixing it - Most people here use Micro-Mesh up to 12000. Then polish or wax.

Car and acrylic polish can do a great job in eliminated the circular scratches. However I would say that a key is where you say that you apply friction polish with . . . "very light pressure til heat is felt" - good so far, but the next - "then I apply more pressure" - I think this is the problem. As a finish is nearing completion, pressure should decrease. When the finish is hot from friction or pressure, it is subject to fine dust digging in and making more scratches than when it is cool. IMHO.
 
Hank, the way I read it, he got rid of the scratches w/the Triploi, but reintroduced them applying the FP w/a paper towel. Hence my reply.

Joe, if my understanding is incorrect, please disregard. If it is correct then read Item 5 on Russ Fairfield's Finish page.;)
 
Billy,

You are probably right. Over here we quite thinking in right brain - left brain mode and only think in no-brain! :D I started posting while you were posting but got side tracked for a few minutes and did not see your post when I responded. You did respond specifically to the material he used and I was looking at the pressure.

It is good that every aspect is covered anyway.
 
THANKS FOR ALL YOUR HELP. SWITCHED FROM PAPER TOWEL TO SOFT COTTON FOR APPLYING FRICTION POLISH. MAKES A BIG DIFFERENCE. NOW I CAN ONLY SEE THE CIRCLULAR MARKS WITH A 6X LUPE. THEY ARE NOT VISABLE WITH THE NAKED EYE.
THANKS JOE
 
*unplugs ears*

Hey Joe, Hank is right, the all-caps thing is really annoying! A lot of us communicate on a regular basis through typing/text, and we become accustomed to reading in the 'accepted' style of 'talking', which is only go all caps when you're really trying to make a point. The effect of your posts is that they're hard to read, and result in the same outcome as trying to converse verbally with someone who has perpetual Teret's syndrome. My eyeballs are bleeding, I'm pretty sure...:D...no worries man, you'll get the hang of it.
 
JOEHILL. Yes a soft cloth will work but be "CAREFUL". Do not wrap the cloth around your finger, unless you've got a few extra. Using friction polish is mastly all I use, but bunch the cloth up & hold it under your turning until it has gotten warm. Wrapping the cloth around or nearly around the blank [especially with FP] it will grab it & wrap it around the mandrel. GUARANTEED. Maybe not the first or second time but it will happen. And by the time you stop the lathe & get it unwraped the finish will be shot...I used to use an old worn out tee shirt but get a far better finish with paper towel. Maybe you are holding the towel in one spot too long. Move back & forth fast. Good luck.
 
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