chuck stuck on head stock

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From the looks of the bent pin, it looks like you might have been turning the chuck the wrong way, is that possible? Are you sure your "unscrewing" in the right direction?
 
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In your one picture you showed a tool rest, and noted "you can see where the tool rest is. I used it to prop the key bar against..."

Did you then attempt to turn the wood?
 
glycerine said:
From the looks of the bent pin, it looks like you might have been turning the chuck the wrong way, is that possible? Are you sure your "unscrewing" in the right direction?
Click to expand...

Definitely. Lefty loosey.

Andrew_K99 said:
In your one picture you showed a tool rest, and noted "you can see where the tool rest is. I used it to prop the key bar against..."

Did you then attempt to turn the wood?
Click to expand...

I put the key bar in the hole, the handle against the tool rest as close as I could get it, then pulled down to the front with the bar of wood. It just made bending the bars that much easier.

I don't have a toaster oven - but the heat gun trick might work.

This is so frustrating. I'm supposed to be working, not fixing. :(
 
watch_art said:
glycerine said:
From the looks of the bent pin, it looks like you might have been turning the chuck the wrong way, is that possible? Are you sure your "unscrewing" in the right direction?
Click to expand...

Definitely. Lefty loosey.

Andrew_K99 said:
In your one picture you showed a tool rest, and noted "you can see where the tool rest is. I used it to prop the key bar against..."

Did you then attempt to turn the wood?
Click to expand...

I put the key bar in the hole, the handle against the tool rest as close as I could get it, then pulled down to the front with the bar of wood. It just made bending the bars that much easier.

I don't have a toaster oven - but the heat gun trick might work.

This is so frustrating. I'm supposed to be working, not fixing. :(
Click to expand...

You might try a drift punch instead of the key bar since the punch is made from hardened steel.

Tomas
 
watch_art said:
Andrew_K99 said:
In your one picture you showed a tool rest, and noted "you can see where the tool rest is. I used it to prop the key bar against..."

Did you then attempt to turn the wood?
Click to expand...

I put the key bar in the hole, the handle against the tool rest as close as I could get it, then pulled down to the front with the bar of wood. It just made bending the bars that much easier.
Click to expand...
Unless I am missing something, doing this would do absolutely nothing except bend the bars as these pieces are connected.

You need to hold/lock the shaft somehow ... a leather belt (or spare inner tube from a bike) looped once around then twisted tight could accomplish this then pull down on the wood piece you have mounted in the chuck.

AK
 
Andrew_K99 said:
watch_art said:
Andrew_K99 said:
In your one picture you showed a tool rest, and noted "you can see where the tool rest is. I used it to prop the key bar against..."

Did you then attempt to turn the wood?
Click to expand...

I put the key bar in the hole, the handle against the tool rest as close as I could get it, then pulled down to the front with the bar of wood. It just made bending the bars that much easier.
Click to expand...

Unless I am missing something, doing this would do absolutely nothing except bend the bars as these pieces are connected.

You need to hold/lock the shaft somehow ... a leather belt (or spare inner tube from a bike) looped once around then twisted tight could accomplish this then pull down on the wood piece you have mounted in the chuck.

AK
Click to expand...

I put the tommy bar thing in the hole of the shaft, not the hole of the chuck, then pull down on the chuck to lefty loose it, which just bent the tommy bars.

I'll try the hardened steel bars if the rubber strap tool thing doesn't work.

School is out now so I should have plenty of time for fooling with this thing.
 
YEEE HAAAW!!!

GOT IT!


001 by snennewton, on Flickr


So I dug through my junk, ahem, TOOL box to find this big old rusty bar, ground the point to be straight and blunt, and stuck the wood back in the jaws on the chuck, and pushed with the left hand pulled with the right and WHAM! My knuckles slammed against the shelf and the thing was LOOSE!

yaaay!!!!!

thanks!
 
I have been reading this thread from the beginning, and I could feel your pain, was not point in me saying anything as all I know about it as been said/suggest to you and for every attempt you made and come back with a negative result, it really brought strongly damn flash backs for one particular time where I was as stuck as you on my Nova 1624-44.

Catches are what makes the chucks to over-tight and if making pens can tight chucks, image what a 16" round chunk on wood at about 20kg will do to a chuck thread when you get a "nasty" catch...!:eek::mad:

I started to make my own bushes out of plastic but, I decided to buy the proper bushes as per a link already provided and, I can tell you that was the best thing I ever done as I can't void some nasty catches but I can now void the chuck to get stuck as every time it needs to come out, it does that without any fuss...!

Hope you learn your lesson, I certainly learn mine...!

Cheers
George
 
Yeah - there was a lot of pain for a while. I just internalized it. :)

I guarantee I'll never spin the chuck on the headstock again. I also made a gasket from some thick plastic and a piece of chip board (like cereal box).
I need to get a couple proper pieces of tommy bar though. Those bent bits and that home made bar won't cut it for long.
 
I have never had a chuck get stuck but have had face plates get stuck. I found that a little heat from a propane torch will usually loosen them up. I don't recommend using a gasket between the chuck and the head (unless using an aluminum face plate) as it permits a wobble in the chuck, although very small it can cause a problem in getting the work straight. :biggrin::biggrin:
Ron
 
A light coat of anti seize compound (that metallic looking thick oily stuff that contains atomized lead) applied to the mating surfaces of the Chuck will prevent this, I think that the Teflon containing pipe thread dope would work as well if lead bothers you.

If you've got something stuck that should come free but won't, Kroil (a brand of penetrating oil will do amazing things (for rusted stuff too). Usually available at gunsmith suppliers and some hardware stores as well.
 
Take the tommy bars and cut off the bent ends, then you have shortened versions of the same tommy bars! They work fine in normal circumstances
 
I think that, along with the cheap tommy bars, a thick and nasty accumulation of dirt and funk had grown up on the threads and flat spot on the spindle. I scraped all of that off. I need to clean it off more often.
 
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