CERAMIC tip inserts for woodworking tools???

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Dario

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Will any of these ceramic tip inserts work for woodworking tools?

Pictured are:

NTK Inserts 121098 763391 HC1 VDB-188-A-015 (elongated whiote - I have 10 of these)
TPG 431CP (triangular shaped- I have 2 of this)
Kyocera CERATIP SN MG 4332T 0459B (square w/ hole - I have 60+ of these)
Kyocera CERATIP TPG-322 T00320 993000041 (triangular - I have 9 pcs)

These are all new...any ideas what these are worth (if any)?

Thank you :)

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Dario: I'm willing to try some! Ceramic should hold an edge for a long, long, long time... These must have been used to machine some gnarly stuff.. They look a bit like carbide to me, though, do they feel different from carbide? The square ones look like carbide with a coating or something, and the big triangles are clearly tipped.
 
Dario,

I work with tools similar to all of these at work. I can try to look up some numbers for you and see what i find out as far as value if you like.

The inserts from Accurate Diamond Tool look like they are diamond tipped. We use those types of inserts for cuting hardened steel inserts. I really like those. We have some black ceramic inserts that look like the NTK white inserts that we use for cutting parts off with.

All of these type of tools take special holders that can cost some money but what doesnt anymore.

Have never tried them on wood before but i figure you can get a long life from them. You can touch up the diamond tipped inserts a few times but we use diamond wheels on our grinders for that.

The ceramic we generally toss once they lose their edges. You can resharpen them a bit if you like but we dont usually. Ceramic inserts can be chipped pretty easily too.

Not sure if this helps you or not.
 
Here is a link to a reference chart that will tell you the designations on the inserts such as the TPG-322 and SNMG-432T.

http://www.carbidedepot.com/formulas-insert-d.htm

Chuckie
 
Dario, I wouldn't think that these would work right out of the box. They do not have a sharp edge. They are good for hardened steel. I have a couple of styles here at the shop and may try to touch the edge on the grinder and see if it might work that way.
 
Chris,

Thanks for the info, please do check if it won't cause too much trouble.. You think the diamond tipped one can be honed with a diamond hone?

Another question on the diamond tipped...can I reshape the triangle (other edges since only one edge is dia tipped) and turn it into a slighly thinner/longer shape using a regular grinder?
 
Originally posted by Paul in OKC
<br />Dario, I wouldn't think that these would work right out of the box. They do not have a sharp edge. They are good for hardened steel. I have a couple of styles here at the shop and may try to touch the edge on the grinder and see if it might work that way.
Click to expand...

I have tried a few different carbide inserts from Iscar & Kyocera and straight out of the box they didn't work very well on cherry or mahogony. Definately would benefit from honing. I haven't played with them since the first time. I am not an expert on the various mfg.s grading systems, but if you would like I can post what they recommend each grade for.
If someone here finds a particular carbide insert that does work well, let me know. The company that I work for sells Iscar,RTW,Widia,Kyocera,Komet,Sandvik,Sumitomo and others.
I might be able to line up some samples on certain shapes & grades.
 
Dario,

Couldnt find anything in our catalogs with those numbers. I wonder if these are discontinued or just not in the books we order from. Heck i even looked on ebay and i didnt find them there. They have to be somewhere right??

You can hone the diamond tips but be careful as they are pretty fragile. Not sure how well a regular grinder will grind the other sides of the triangle as they are probably carbide like the ones we use. Again we use diamond wheels for that.

You dont want to heat the insert up too much as the diamond tip might break loose. Take your time and keep it cool with frequent dippings in water. It may work ok for you. Sorry i couldnt be more helpful.
 
Originally posted by ArtinNY
<br />
Originally posted by Paul in OKC
<br />Dario, I wouldn't think that these would work right out of the box. They do not have a sharp edge. They are good for hardened steel. I have a couple of styles here at the shop and may try to touch the edge on the grinder and see if it might work that way.
Click to expand...

I have tried a few different carbide inserts from Iscar & Kyocera and straight out of the box they didn't work very well on cherry or mahogony. Definately would benefit from honing. I haven't played with them since the first time. I am not an expert on the various mfg.s grading systems, but if you would like I can post what they recommend each grade for.
If someone here finds a particular carbide insert that does work well, let me know. The company that I work for sells Iscar,RTW,Widia,Kyocera,Komet,Sandvik,Sumitomo and others.
I might be able to line up some samples on certain shapes & grades.
Click to expand...

ArtinNY,

Looking at the PSI site they have 5/16" diameter high speed steel cutters as the tools for their duplicators. I have used some regular carbide tooling for roughing some square pen blanks round. It worked like a charm that way.

Maybe using just the regular carbide stock is better then the fancy coated/uncoated inserts. Plus the inserts need a special holder which usually is pretty expensive all by itself.

The inserts might come in handy when turning down material such as aluminum.
 
I use carbide inserts for all my machining including titanium, aluminum, and wood. Seems to work pretty well in my case. It's probably a case of it powering through the wood as much as cutting fine wisps from it, but I get a great surface finish on the wood and no wear on the tool.
 
I have never tried the inserts on the wood i was turning down. I have a tool i keep in my box for doing that. I can try it the next time. I am sure it will work as you say.

One of the things i was trying to say was usually the inserts need a special holder and that isnt cheap in all cases. But I bet some of the do it yourselfers on this site can rig up a home made holder in no time.
 
Yup, the inserts are usually somewhere in the $3 to $15 range, but the holder is sometimes in the $60 to $90 range. It's also a rectangular block of metal made for a metal lathe.
 
I have one holder for the triangular insert...but it is too bulky! I might have to rig up another...just borrow the screw and the "clip" to hold the insert down. [:D]. Now I have to buy some tap (when I find the time).
 
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