theartist07
Member
I've never tried a celtic knot but would really to, where is the best place to get info on this process?
Thanks,
jim
Thanks,
jim
celtic knot
- Thread starter theartist07
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seamus7227
Member
You should try the library, or look it up on youtube possible, I've never done one myself, but thats where i would start looking! Good Luck
wouldentu2?
Member
Go to this You Tube site to see how it is done. Some info in the library site here also.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y9uQv5sKibk
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y9uQv5sKibk
wouldentu2?
Member
TBCbushings
Member
http://pensforcollege.com/video.aspx
Here is a great video on the pen...
Here is a great video on the pen...
Gary Beasley
Member
The hardest part is matching the insert to the blade cut. Sandpaper till it slides in. Don't be afraid of messing up either, thats called learning oppotunities around here. 
Usually the first mistake the beginner makes it not letting the glue set completely. Even if it looks dry on the outside allow more time so the inner works get done as well. Have fun and keep the fingers and blades separate!
Usually the first mistake the beginner makes it not letting the glue set completely. Even if it looks dry on the outside allow more time so the inner works get done as well. Have fun and keep the fingers and blades separate!
Canadian_Kid
Member
ctubbs
Member
DRILL CAREFULLY!!!! I have four that I drilled off center. UGLY!! As stated above, give the glue plenty of time to set, then give it some more. The last thing you want to see is the top part of the blank spinning on the bit as you drill or those tenny tinny parts come flying off as you turn. DAMHIKT
Charles
Charles
monophoto
Member
Jim -
Making a celtic knot (celtic interlace, or lissajous) is an exercise in careful cutting. Here's a summary of what's involved.
1. Start with a blank for which the cross-section is as close to square as you can make it.
2. Number the faces 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 in sequential order.
3. This step is critical - choose inlay material that is the same thickness as the kerf of the saw blade that you will be using. You may have to sand the inlay material a bit. If you want to do multiple layers, it is helpful to glue up the various layers to make a single inlay sandwich, let the glue cure, and then cut the material into pieces to be inlaid into the blank.
4. Set up the miter gage on your table saw for an angle cut at whatever angle you want to use. 45 deg is a good starting point, but you can also do other angles. The length of the pattern in the finished piece will vary with the angle - larger angles (to the blade) will result in a shorter pattern, etc.
5. Attach an auxiliary fence on your miter gage, and add a stop block to set the distance between the end of the blank and the blade. Until you are finished with the project, don't move either the miter gage or the stop block.
6. Set the blade to cut a depth that is about 1/16" short of the thickness of your blank. While you can cut all the way through the blank, it's much easier to do the glue up if you don't.
7. Start with face 1 on your blank. Make a cut into the blank. Apply glue in the saw kerf and use a card to smear the glue across both sides of the kerf. Apply glue on a piece of the inlay, and then insert the inlay into the kerf. I prefer ordinary yellow glue with wood, and have learned to be patient while it cures; you can use other glues as long as they provide enough working time to spread the glue on four faces and insert the inlay. Allow the glue to dry, then trim off anything that protrudes beyond the edge of the blank. I use a sharp chisel for trimming.
8. Repeat step 7 on face 3.
9. Repeat step 7 on face 2.
10. Repeat step 7 on face 4.
11. After the glue has dried, cut the blank to the required dimension, placing the inlay where you want it to fall on the finished spindle.
12. If you are making a pen, very carefully drill the hold for the pen tube, making sure that you are drilling parallel to the face of the blank (and perpendicular to the end).
13. Finally, glue in the tube, square the ends, turn the blanks, and apply your finish. If you have been careful (enough), the tube will pass through the point where all four of the inlay pieces cross, therefore making the pattern uniform on the finished turning. If the tube misses that point, the pattern will be asymmetrical (but still may be pleasing). If there is a mismatch between the thickness of the inlay and the width of the saw kerf, the points where the pattern crosses on the finished piece will be jagged and mismatched.
Making a celtic knot (celtic interlace, or lissajous) is an exercise in careful cutting. Here's a summary of what's involved.
1. Start with a blank for which the cross-section is as close to square as you can make it.
2. Number the faces 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 in sequential order.
3. This step is critical - choose inlay material that is the same thickness as the kerf of the saw blade that you will be using. You may have to sand the inlay material a bit. If you want to do multiple layers, it is helpful to glue up the various layers to make a single inlay sandwich, let the glue cure, and then cut the material into pieces to be inlaid into the blank.
4. Set up the miter gage on your table saw for an angle cut at whatever angle you want to use. 45 deg is a good starting point, but you can also do other angles. The length of the pattern in the finished piece will vary with the angle - larger angles (to the blade) will result in a shorter pattern, etc.
5. Attach an auxiliary fence on your miter gage, and add a stop block to set the distance between the end of the blank and the blade. Until you are finished with the project, don't move either the miter gage or the stop block.
6. Set the blade to cut a depth that is about 1/16" short of the thickness of your blank. While you can cut all the way through the blank, it's much easier to do the glue up if you don't.
7. Start with face 1 on your blank. Make a cut into the blank. Apply glue in the saw kerf and use a card to smear the glue across both sides of the kerf. Apply glue on a piece of the inlay, and then insert the inlay into the kerf. I prefer ordinary yellow glue with wood, and have learned to be patient while it cures; you can use other glues as long as they provide enough working time to spread the glue on four faces and insert the inlay. Allow the glue to dry, then trim off anything that protrudes beyond the edge of the blank. I use a sharp chisel for trimming.
8. Repeat step 7 on face 3.
9. Repeat step 7 on face 2.
10. Repeat step 7 on face 4.
11. After the glue has dried, cut the blank to the required dimension, placing the inlay where you want it to fall on the finished spindle.
12. If you are making a pen, very carefully drill the hold for the pen tube, making sure that you are drilling parallel to the face of the blank (and perpendicular to the end).
13. Finally, glue in the tube, square the ends, turn the blanks, and apply your finish. If you have been careful (enough), the tube will pass through the point where all four of the inlay pieces cross, therefore making the pattern uniform on the finished turning. If the tube misses that point, the pattern will be asymmetrical (but still may be pleasing). If there is a mismatch between the thickness of the inlay and the width of the saw kerf, the points where the pattern crosses on the finished piece will be jagged and mismatched.