What is your best method for getting a museum quality finish to celluloid blanks? I have been experimenting with various wetsanding, polishing techniques, and am pleased, but not satisfied. Did my first craft show this weekend, and the ladies went nutso over the celluloids for themselves, and the burls for the men. Interesting.
Celluloid
- Thread starter Mattmck
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alamocdc
Member
Matt, I just wet sand all the way through my MM sheets and then use a plastic polish. There are other anti-swirl automotive polishes that will do the same thing. Then I apply Ren Wax. I've not needed anything else.
wayneis
Member
After I wet sand with MM I use plastic polishing compound and then sometimes I will even buff with white dymond. Thats always done it for me.
Wayne
Wayne
M
Mudder
Guest
I follow a routine similar to alamocdc and use the acrylic finishing pads from bgartforms and the plastic polish but for my final topcoat I use 3 applications of TSW buffed with a piece of white felt.
I have two reasons for this. First, Ren Wax is a very good product and I use it for other applications but not for pens, and I always use rubber gloves when I do use it because it contains what they refer to on their MSDS as white spirits. They further define white spirits as a combination of naphtha and benzene. Correct me if I’m wrong but isn’t benzene a cancer causing agent? Is it not an agent that has been linked to birth defects? Granted the exposure is small but it can be avoided. I have also looked at acrylics and celluloid’s treated with Ren wax under high magnification and found that Ren wax does not build up nor does it cover the micro scratches that are left after the MM and plastic polish operation. In fact, it has a polishing effect that actually causes more micro scratches.
TSW on the other hand does build up and fills in a significant amount of those scratches. Next time I can get use of the scope I’m going to take a few pictures. I will admit that these scratches cannot be readily seen with the naked eye but they do have an effect on the overall luster that can be achieved.
I’m sure that if you ask 10 people you will get 10 different answers. The method that I use is pleasing to my eye, it was used on the pen that I submitted to the Pen Makers Guild and I received comments on the finish. Most importantly, my customers see the difference in a side-by-side comparison. This is my opinion, based on the unscientific tests that I have performed.
I have two reasons for this. First, Ren Wax is a very good product and I use it for other applications but not for pens, and I always use rubber gloves when I do use it because it contains what they refer to on their MSDS as white spirits. They further define white spirits as a combination of naphtha and benzene. Correct me if I’m wrong but isn’t benzene a cancer causing agent? Is it not an agent that has been linked to birth defects? Granted the exposure is small but it can be avoided. I have also looked at acrylics and celluloid’s treated with Ren wax under high magnification and found that Ren wax does not build up nor does it cover the micro scratches that are left after the MM and plastic polish operation. In fact, it has a polishing effect that actually causes more micro scratches.
TSW on the other hand does build up and fills in a significant amount of those scratches. Next time I can get use of the scope I’m going to take a few pictures. I will admit that these scratches cannot be readily seen with the naked eye but they do have an effect on the overall luster that can be achieved.
I’m sure that if you ask 10 people you will get 10 different answers. The method that I use is pleasing to my eye, it was used on the pen that I submitted to the Pen Makers Guild and I received comments on the finish. Most importantly, my customers see the difference in a side-by-side comparison. This is my opinion, based on the unscientific tests that I have performed.
Fangar
Member
I find that a buffing wheel does the best job for me with White diamond, followed by HUT plastic polish if I need it.
Fangar
Fangar
wdcav1952
Activities Manager Emeritus
Matt,
TSW is a final polish for wood. I use it where I would use Ren Wax, not the least because I like the smell and feel of it better. It is available from Arizona Silhouette and Pens of Color, and other outlets I don't remember it this point.
Hope this helps,
TSW is a final polish for wood. I use it where I would use Ren Wax, not the least because I like the smell and feel of it better. It is available from Arizona Silhouette and Pens of Color, and other outlets I don't remember it this point.
Hope this helps,
Glass Scratcher
Member
TSW stands for <b>Trade Secret for Wood</b>.
A good thread from the archives is:
http://www.penturners.org/forum/topic.asp?ARCHIVE=true&TOPIC_ID=1306
.
Celluloid is a plastic with a low melting point. You cannot let it get hot. Always use wet sanding to carry away the heat, and keep the surface wet. Run the lathe at low speeds to prevent most of the heat from generating in the first place.
You should find that 1-K Kerosene makes a better lubricant for wet sanding than either wax or water. It is also sold as chacoal fire starter.
You should find that 1-K Kerosene makes a better lubricant for wet sanding than either wax or water. It is also sold as chacoal fire starter.
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