CAsting Suede

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Turned Around

Turned Around

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Joined
Jul 28, 2011
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838
Location
Houston, TX
Does anybody here know how hard it would be to cast suede in clear poly resin? I have an idea for a pen, but not sure if it will work out, so I thought I'd ask if anybody's done something similar and see if it was even worth the effort.

Thanks,
Nic
 
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I have used denim and it looks pretty cool. Only 2 people guessed the material with the majority guessing that it was snake skin. I guess they have seen some blue snakes before.
 
The suede will turn darker with the application of the resins or any liquid. As Seamus said, even the darkest color of leather will darken some. Even when a waterproofing grease/wax prep is applied it will darken the leather.

You have to remember that leather has a burnished surface finish, and suede. Due to its textured nature and open pores, suede may become dirty and absorb liquids quickly. Because suede does not include the tough exterior skin layer, suede is less durable but softer than standard ("full-grain") leather. Its softness, thinness, and pliability make it suitable for clothing. Suede is made from the underside of the skin, primarily lamb. The splits of beef and deer give a shaggy nap, not as smooth.
If you can live with the color shift, wetting a scrap of the suede or leather will give a pretty good indication of the color.
:clown:
 
I'll try wetting a piece first, that's a good idea. To give you guys an idea of what I'm doing, I'm planning on casting the part of a Crown XR bag that has the gold crown embroidered on it.
 
I don't know about leather haven't tried it but I do know about the wetting problem. You mite want to try a coat or 2 of med.-thick CA as a sealer. Don't know if it would work because the sued mite have a nape that it would lat down. But wetting is a BIG problem when casting most labels and paper and CA works real well for me others have had luck with Mod Podge also (I have not) maybe I didn't wait long enough to dry. The problem with experimenting is time & patents you need to give at least 2 days of drying time between each step.

Good luck where's there's a will there's a way.
Bruce
 
bruce119 said:
I don't know about leather haven't tried it but I do know about the wetting problem. You mite want to try a coat or 2 of med.-thick CA as a sealer. Don't know if it would work because the sued mite have a nape that it would lat down.
Bruce
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You still would have the wetting or darkening of the suede,any liquid or material containing a solvent will darken or change the color/shade/hue.
:clown:
 
Try pig skin suede. You might experiment with spraying it with Scotch Guard to seal the surface. One of the factors that will affect the leather absorbing any liquid is the amount of oil in the leather after the tanning process. You might ask your leather source about oil content.

Tomas
 
tomas said:
Try pig skin suede. You might experiment with spraying it with Scotch Guard to seal the surface. One of the factors that will affect the leather absorbing any liquid is the amount of oil in the leather after the tanning process. You might ask your leather source about oil content.

Tomas
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if i spray it with a Scotch Guard, wouldn't that affect the resin and CA from sticking to it?
 
seamus7227 said:
Turned Around said:
if i spray it with a Scotch Guard, wouldn't that affect the resin and CA from sticking to it?
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thats a good point! there is only one way to find out! and that is to try a piece of scrap. Its all about trial and error, so go for it and let us know if it works!
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haha, on it. I have the whole bag to use as a scrap/trial and error piece. i only need the middle with the crown for the final piece.
 
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