Capacitor on my Jet Mini 1014 (long)

[Bluewing92]

Just fried another capacitor on my Jet Mini 1014. This is the second one in a year. The first one I admit that I had an extension cord that was probably to light to carry the load and therefor overheated. But since then I have had the Mini plug directly into a 20-amp outlet. After replacing the first capacitor it ran warm to the touch but you could keep your hand on it without discomfort from heat. I am also the kind of guy that cleans up around the lathe after every project or the end of the day. This includes vacuuming all around the lathe as well as blowing out the motor and vacuuming the motor threw the vents to make sure nothing restricts the airflow. Today I was turning small tops and Christmas ornaments and I didn't notice anything until it started smoking and smelling. After I determined it was the capacitor again I took of the capacitor cover and found the capacitor had melted inside the cover but since it was still warm I was able to pry it out with a small screwdriver with no damage to the cover.
Sorry for venting but I would like to hear from anybody who has had the same problem with Jet Mini 1014 or any idea why this is happening.
I am presently researching the purchase date of the capacitor before calling Jet.
Thanks for reading

 

[ldb2000]

The Capacitor is used to stabilize the line voltage while the motor is starting up , if you keep frying them I would say it's because your motor is drawing too much current on start up . This could be caused by several things , The motor is just bad , your belt tension is way too tight , the headstock bearings are bad , or your not waiting for the motor to come up to full speed before you start turning .
Try removing the belt and see if the motor turns freely then try the spindle and see if it spins freely , if they seem ok then it may have been the belt tension or technique

 

[SamThePenMan]

Also maybe check your motor brushes, I don't know a whole lot about motors but maybe if there is something wrong there that might be causing an abnormal draw on the capacitor as well. Another thing, though unlikely, is if you have any high draw tools that run constantly at the same time, dust collectors, air cleaner, or window air condition on the same electrical circuit, when you turn the lathe on there maybe some sorta current spike(s) that's causing the problem.

Story time, when I was living at my parents I had a window A/C unit in a room I shared with my brother. My computer power supply got fried and it was only a year old. When I replaced it I got a battery backup. A few weeks later my brothers computers power supply fried as well. The only thing we could think was the power surge created by the compressor in the A/C unit turning off and on caused the power supplies to get fried. I'm don't remember now but I think the components that were fried in the power supplies were some of the larger capacitors. Now the point of the story is, maybe the same thing is happening with your lathe motor capacitor. More likely though its one of the things Butch mentioned.

 

[Bluewing92]

Thank you for your replies.
Since I have the motor off the lathe waiting for a new capacitor I went and checked the spindle and the head bearing and they move freely and smoothly. The only other thing that I have running at the same time on the same circuit is a radio and an oscillating (sp) fan.
I ordered another capacitor from Jet and I will replace it again and make sure I don't over tighten the belts. I've read somewhere that the weight of the motor is usually enough force to keep it going so I'll try that. Also I make sure I wait an extra moment to ensure the motor is up to speed before applying any force with a tool or in sanding and finishing. If it goes bad again I guess it is the motor but a $25.00 capacitor (including S/H) is cheaper than a new motor right now, but I may have to look at upgrading with a VS retro kit next time.
Thanks again for the advice.

 

[btboone]

I've gone through a few starting capacitors on my Jet 14 x 40. I just get them from Mouser electronics. Just match the specs and it should work fine.