cant get a shine

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emtmike

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Jan 21, 2006
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bucksport, maine, USA.
I have a problem. I got some Camphor burl off e-bay and it is stabilized. The problem I am having is I can’t get it to shine up. I use a CA finish as I do with all my pens and all I get is a flat rough finish. I wipe it with DA between sanding and MM to 1200, like I said as I do with all my pens. What do you think I am doing wrong?
 
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Sorry, I hit submit too soon. Stabilized doesn't mean void-free. Remember that in some cases, the surface of a stabilized blank can be as rough, and in my never-humble opinion rougher, than a non-stabilized blank. So, you may need to do more leveling coats with the CA before you get a smooth, shiny finish.
 
Originally posted by JimGo
<br />Sorry, I hit submit too soon. Stabilized doesn't mean void-free. Remember that in some cases, the surface of a stabilized blank can be as rough, and in my never-humble opinion rougher, than a non-stabilized blank. So, you may need to do more leveling coats with the CA before you get a smooth, shiny finish.

Have that problem with some Amboyna with sapwood. I finally just kept applying thin Ca, probably about 10 - 12 coats. I don't sand between coats. Then I put 3 - 5 coats of Ca/Blo waiting longer between coats, probably about 5 minutes. I then finish with Mylands.
 
Originally posted by BobNashvillega
<br />Ok Becca and Sean,
now my head is spinning and hurting, [^][:(] I was curious about his comment too and searched. I dont see anything either.[?]

LOL Bob, I read everything about 10 times trying to find the quote[8D]
 
Has anyone ever tried using 20 Min Cure Finnish Epoxy for a finnish? Comes in two 20 oz. bottles? Model airplane makers use it alot. I have not tried it yet.
 
You might not be able to get a high polish on the wood. Camphor is a very oily wood when there is a lot of color in it. The more color, the more oils. Oily woods don't stabilize well. The natural oils mix with the acrylic, or whatever other polymer was used as a stabilizer, where they act as a plasticizer. The result is that the stabilizer is a softer material than it would have been had the oil not been there. You can get a smooth surface, but there is no way you will get a high gloss on the softer stabilizer.

If there are voids in the stabilizer, try wet sanding with 150-grit sandpaper and Medium CA glue will create a slurry that seals the wood and fills the voids. Use a lot of the glue, don't spin the wood too fast, and sand until the CA starts to cure. Spritz it with accelerator, and then sand and finish as normal.

Go here to see it live

http://www.penturners.org/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=17155
 
Thank you everybody for your help and thank you Russ. Its always great to have you old guys to help us nubees out. (did that come out right? You know what I mean) I have 3 of the small blanks left and 4 jumbos on the way. I may try one of the jumbos and if that doesn’t work out they are up for give a ways or trade. I wonder if putting them in the microwave for a bit to dry them out?
 
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