Cabinet Saw Maintenance

[BigRob777]

I have a Grizzly 3 HP cabinet saw, with a large door on one side, for clearing out the cabinet. Unfortunately, it's hard for me to access. My question is this: What's the easiest way to clean out a cabinet saw? I'd hate to take off the top. I did buy a universal mibile system for it, but the thing weighs more than I do and is mounted on a solid platform of heavy pine 2 x 4s and 4 x 4s, that make it 6" tall and 21" square. That'll possibly stay on the machine, depending on how high the wheels make my saw. For me, taller is often better. It saves me from additional back pain.

I know that there are a lot of thin stick-cut offs in the cabinet, along with lots of sawdust, some of which I'm allergic to. Maybe I should hook up my "feet" and roll the saw around and vacuum out what I can, then pick out the sticks. Maybe some will even be spalted. They're up to 3 years old.

Here's my first big tool (Yup, I'm a tried and true Grizzly Man):

Here's my 2nd:

My 3rd:

and my upcoming 4th:

With these all, I'll be making coffee tables and other living room furniture from exotic veneers and solid exotics.

But first, I need to figure out how to get my cabinet saw cleaned out.
Thanks,
Rob

 

[Gary Max]

Buy a real long extended blow gun---use that to keep the inside clean---The biggie with a tablesaw is keeping the top slick---I use a product called --slip-it---it's a nonsilicon surface treatment that does a great job on machinery tops.
Nothing is the world wrong with buying Grizzly---I bought the wife one of thier bandsaws last year and have been very happy with it.

 

[redfishsc]

Originally posted by Gary Max

I bought the wife one of thier bandsaws last year and have been very happy with it.

For your wife? Sure you did. I think my wife needs a new powermatic planer with the carbide cutterhead.


Rob, pm sent about that drum sander.

If you are buying a Grizz bandsaw (which is fine) PLEASE opt for the biggest motor you can afford. I've used 3 Grizzly bandsaws and EVERY ONE of them seem to be grotesquely underpowered. I also used a Laguna 20"(ish) bandsaw that would power through anything and not bat an eye at it.

If you are looking at the 17" Grizzly, try to get the one with the 5hp motor, you will NOT be disappointed.

One of the reasons is that a higher power bandsaw will help your blades last longer--- the reason being heat.

A wimp motor will bog down easily and build up a lot of heat on the blade--- -they way heat dissipates on a bandsaw is "chip removal"--- literally, (to a great degree) the rate of which the sawdust is cut and removed will also determine how quickly the blade cools from the friction.

Slower speeds (bogged down motors) only remove chips (and heat) slowly. A more powerful motor removes them much quicker.


Ask anyone who runs a CNC router like they are supposed to---- running the router bits too slow will quickly heat them up and ruin the carbide. I could only expect the same to be true with a bandsaw. I know that with the Laguna we used those blades a LOT and rarely changed them. With the Grizzly we have to change them much more frequently and we don't use them as much as the other shop used the Laguna.

 

[BigRob777]

Redfishsc,
First of all, I love your quotes. The one by Elliot is my favorite, but The Rabbi's is also pretty awesome. Secondly, I must have lucked out. I broke my first band saw 1" blade pretty quickly and had it welded by a friend. He had no experience with saw blades, so it broke again rather quickly. I bought a carbide blade, for a hundred and a half bucks and have been beating it up for about two and a half years (about two months after I bought my 17"). I do bog down with it, but it's been a great saw. I'm sure that the Laguna would spoil me though.

As for Gary's idea, I'd have to move my compressor back out into my outside shop and the blow gun would help, but the main problem is the longer slivers, that kept falling through my plate, before I bought a zero clearance plate. If I do buy another compressor, which is a possibility, I'll do what you suggested. With the DC on, it should keep it from flying back into my face.

THanks guys. I'm going to put wheels on it and hope for the best. I can't empty my DC well without moving my saw, as I packed it into the corner of my bench and the saw blocks my egress.

Rob

 

[BigRob777]

Gary,
I use Boeshield for my table top, to keep the rust away and make it nice and slick. It also helps to get rid of any rust (from my sweat). I keep my saw in my garage shop and even though Delaware is extremely humid, I haven't had any rust, except for a few sweat spots, since I started using boeshield. I haven't even used any for over a year and it's rust free. Good stuff!!! It was highly rated in one of my wood mags.
Rob

 

[BigRob777]

What do you guys think about the Woodmaster 26"? It's about $2,200, or about $300.00 more than the upgraded Grizzly, with variable speed belt drive and more than twice the power.
http://www.woodmastertools.com/S/price1.cfm

The powermatic 25" is about $3,200.00 with similar features as the woodmaster (I think).
http://www.cpopowermatic.com/categories/sanders/dual_drum_sanders.html?ref=googaw&kw={keyword}

To anyone who has had experience with these machines...your comments are most welcome.
Thanks,
Rob