CA sticking to bushings? I can help

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greenmtnguy

greenmtnguy

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I use heavy a heavy CA application for my finishes. Sometimes when I crack the blank from the bushings, the end of the blank stays with the bushing. To eliminate this, I scribe a circle around the circumference of the bushing about 1/8" from the end of the blank with a pocket knife. If you are lucky, the photo shows the nice result. Not fool proof, but better. Let this rest a bit and it becomes more brittle and can be gently snapped or milled off. Hope it helps.:biggrin:

 
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I find that putting a bit of Renaissance wax on the bushings from time to time also prevent the CA from sticking and eliminates most of the problem.


Jim Smith
 
We put our CA finish on between centers off of the bushings. If the blank sticks to the centers we will hold a utility knife on the center just past the blank and hand turn the lathe. We then use the sanding end mill to flush our ends. For the CA that sticks to the centers I will put a 5/16" dowel between the centers and use sand paper to remove the CA with the lathe on about 1200 rpm. This prevents any chance of the finish lifting from the blank. Our finishes are usually in the .005 to .008 range and lift from the blank on oily woods if you try to tap a bushing off, so we switched to this methode.
 
Alton,

Another method to keep the bushings CA free is to not even use them when applying CA! I turn my blanks down to "almost bushing diameter" then remove the bushings and mount my blanks between 60 degree centers for final sanding and CA application. I find this method better and I no longer get bushing dust in the blank and can easily seal the ends of the blanks with CA, something you can't do with bushings inserted.

Oops, didn't see Mike's reply above, it looks like we think pretty much alike though. Mike have you ever tried a coating os PAM spray cooking oil on the centers? It really helps to keep the CA from sticiking. I have a can handy above the lathe for when I do threading.
 
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There is no way to keep track of all the things I have learned hanging around with y'all... great stuff here!

I have been using the tip of my skew to barely touch where the bushing meets the blank... then remove the blank and sand it flat.

I will sure try a couple of these ideas though!
 
Marc Phillips said:
There is no way to keep track of all the things I have learned hanging around with y'all... great stuff here!

I have been using the tip of my skew to barely touch where the bushing meets the blank... then remove the blank and sand it flat.

I will sure try a couple of these ideas though!
Click to expand...
Marc, Not knocking what you do but consider this:

1. Bushings can wear down ever so slightly and over time will be smaller than what they are supposed to be. Some are off brand new from the factory.

2. Kit parts are not always "spot on", they are quite often a few thousandths over or under what they are supposed to be.

3. If you turn the blank to match the bushing instead of the pen parts, you can very well be over or under when assembling the pen.

4. Just turning to "near bushing size", using calipers to measure pen parts then finishing to "caliper diameter" will get you nicer fitting pens.

It's just something to think about.
 
Texatdurango said:
Alton,

Another method to keep the bushings CA free is to not even use them when applying CA! I turn my blanks down to "almost bushing diameter" then remove the bushings and mount my blanks between 60 degree centers for final sanding and CA application. I find this method better and I no longer get bushing dust in the blank and can easily seal the ends of the blanks with CA, something you can't do with bushings inserted......
Click to expand...
Started doing this myself about 2 months ago. Great minds do run the same.
 
Some real good ideas to help solve a common problem. Even I have seen that on some of my pens. I have wondered what the best way was to remove that CA spooge.

I ended up sanding it off ever so slowly. i like the ideas I heard here a lot better.
:biggrin::biggrin::biggrin:
 
CA glue sticking to the bushings can be a good thing because it prevents the steel particles from getting into and discoloring the ends of a light colored wood. With a coating of CA glue, you will never have to replace a bushing because it has been sanded too small. A thin coating of CA will always protect them from the sandpaper.
 
Pam works for me.

After I have sanded the pen to final dimensions, I remove the blanks from the mandrel and blast the bushings, mandrel and ends of the blanks with Pam no-stick cooking oil.

This works great at keeping the blanks from sticking to the bushings and keeps the CA from "cracking" at the bushings. Additionally, Pam is free as I steal it from my wife's kitchen.
 
I do believe that this is why my bushings have been lasting so long. I have a good coat of CA on all of them and it is self replacing. Checking that everything will fit the parts is a must this way. I like this tip for preventing that chipping problem from wrecking that extra fine finish I just managed to get though. Why is it that the chip never comes from the bushing side?

RussFairfield said:
CA glue sticking to the bushings can be a good thing because it prevents the steel particles from getting into and discoloring the ends of a light colored wood. With a coating of CA glue, you will never have to replace a bushing because it has been sanded too small. A thin coating of CA will always protect them from the sandpaper.
Click to expand...
 
Texatdurango said:
Marc, Not knocking what you do but consider this:

1. Bushings can wear down ever so slightly and over time will be smaller than what they are supposed to be. Some are off brand new from the factory.

2. Kit parts are not always "spot on", they are quite often a few thousandths over or under what they are supposed to be.

3. If you turn the blank to match the bushing instead of the pen parts, you can very well be over or under when assembling the pen.

4. Just turning to "near bushing size", using calipers to measure pen parts then finishing to "caliper diameter" will get you nicer fitting pens.

It's just something to think about.
Click to expand...

Monty said:
Started doing this myself about 2 months ago. Great minds do run the same.
Click to expand...

I agree with this method as well. My only addition to this is to have 2 sets of 2 undersized bushings for applying the CA only. I soak one set in Acetone while the other set is being used. These extra bushings I have are made of steel. I have since acquired Delrin and will be using this because CA does not stick to it.

Dave
 
Bellsy, have you tried out the CA on delrin?
And did you make the delrin or purchase somewhere?
 
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I did a little trick last night that worked well. I don't have a "real" lathe, I have a drill pess with a lathe attachement, so I can't mount the blanks "between centers" This trick also works well if you want to finish both pieces at the same time instead of mounting one at a time between centers. I took some extra pen tubes and cut off small portions from the ends. No more than 1/8 of an inch, probably more like 1/16. I put these pieces onto the bushings and then put my blanks on. So now I have a gap between my bushings and blanks and no more CA sticking to the bushings!! Works wonderfully and if the gap is wide enough, you can get the CA on the ends as well while you're at it!
 
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Knight said:
Bellsy, have you tried out the CA on delrin?
And did you make the delrin or purchase somewhere?
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Just my two pennies worth but contrary to popular belief CA will stick to and build up on delrin bushings. There are several people offering the delrin bushings as the solution to applying CA but I'm sure many folks are finding out that they have a problem just like they had with the steel bushings and as indicated above, many end up soaking them in solvent.

My question is..... If you are going to soak the bushings to remove the CA anyway, why bother with a seperate set of delrin bushings? :confused:
 
Texatdurango said:
Just my two pennies worth but contrary to popular belief CA will stick to and build up on delrin bushings. There are several people offering the delrin bushings as the solution to applying CA but I'm sure many folks are finding out that they have a problem just like they had with the steel bushings and as indicated above, many end up soaking them in solvent.

My question is..... If you are going to soak the bushings to remove the CA anyway, why bother with a seperate set of delrin bushings? :confused:
Click to expand...

Thanks, George. I wondered since I had seen these:
http://www.beartoothwoods.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=35_83&products_id=960
it says, quote:
"CA glue will not stick to these bushings".

I have played around with a piece of delrin and turned it with a skew and sanded but it seems my ca glue will adhere somewhat.
Just wondering what others experiences might be, so your input is appreciated.
 
And if you get CA on your bushings, don't scrape or sand it off. Instead toss your bushings in a jar of acetone for a few hours. Melts it right off without harming the metal.
 
I like to use the delrin bushings that John and Hans sell. I know they add a step but I like the fact that there is no black bleeding from the steel bushings or the 60 degree centers when using light woods or plastic polish
 
I just run my bushings on the lathe together and rub a candle wax coating. When there is a nice wax coat built up I install the blanks for turning. It works good for me
 
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