CA glue problems

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avbill

Member
Joined
Oct 18, 2007
Messages
1,973
Location
San Bruno, CA, USA.
I have never really mastered the CA finish. I know it's my methodology of applying the CA. Yesterday and today i'm relearning and saw several massive errors that I was doing. Hope to correct the problem. Now my question.

My bottles of CA did not flow easily they were gummy as if they were a quarter set into hardness. I thought I had my covers on the bottles.

So can CA become non-useable in time?

Is there a proper way of storing CA glue?

Any suggestions will be gladly taken!
 
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I've read many, many times on this site to keep the CA in the fridge for extended periods. I can offer my typed up method for CA finish if you'd like. It results in a thick high-gloss finish.
 
Yes, CA can grow "thick" over time. Mine has, in the basement since I don't turn as much as I once did.

With time, my thin and medium get thicker, the thick becomes unusable. I suspect humidity, since I leave the caps off (by design). But, it takes months and, with Monty's CA it is not that expensive, so I replace three bottles twice a year.

FWIW
 
I have had issues with my CA thickening, but it was due to cold weather. I have a small heater that I sometimes run and set the CA near it. After it warms up a little it seems to be just fine.
 
I keep two bottles in the workshop (thin and thick) and when not in use they remain uncapped sitting near the lathe. My extra CA is stored in the fridge.

Wade
 
dhallnc said:
Will uncapped ca not set-up?
Click to expand...

I haven't experienced CA setting up because it is uncapped. As noted in previous posts it may begin to set if it gets too old or moisture in it. Going uncapped helps keeps the spout from clogging up.

Wade
 
designer said:
Drstrangefart said:
I've read many, many times on this site to keep the CA in the fridge for extended periods. I can offer my typed up method for CA finish if you'd like. It results in a thick high-gloss finish.
Click to expand...

Yes, please fill us in (pun intended). Thanks
Click to expand...


What I do is get all the prerequisite sanding/OR/skew work done. After everything is ready, I use a SCOTT paper towel from one of those big yellow boxes they sell at Home Depot. Set the lathe on low speed. Fold the paper towel up 4 or 5 times in half. Put a small puddle of thin CA in one corner. Wipe the pen down as it turns. Move in one pass to cover what needs to be covered. Wait 45 seconds to 1 minute. If it's dry, apply another coat. Build up maybe 4 coats this way. Then find a clean spot on the towel and use Medium CA to form a blob about as big as a frozen pea. Make a pass over one barrel of the pen, wipe it a couple of times to smooth it out. Add a couple more drops of Medium CA and do the other barrel the same way. Wait about a minute, then give it a few short blasts of accelerator from about 15 inches away. Make sure it's set, and apply another coat of medium the same as the first. Another round of accelerator, and repeat. I'll do 3 or 4 coats of medium depending on what the pen needs. Then I use Micromesh and go through all of the pads up to 12,000 grit. Remember to cross-sand after at LEAST the first 4 or 5 pads if you aren't gonna cross-sand on all of them. Then, once done, dry the pen. If I have it, I'll put Tripoli polish on a white terrycloth towel and buff using low speed on the lathe. If no Tripoli, then buff with just the towel.
 
I do sort of the same thing. I sand to 600 then add a thin coat of CA, sand again and more CA, and then a third coat. I use micomesh to 12000, friction polish, then ren wax. I'll have to try your method. i hate having to sand three times.
 
I keep all new bottles in the fridge (2nd one in the garage, wife not happy with storing in main one). I have 2 in there now that are over a year old and still move around like they did when I got them. When I open a bottle I try to pour it into a smaller bottle and keep the main one in the fridge. That way if something happens it is less waste. Trust me something always happens.
 
airborne_r6 said:
Drstrangefart said:
... I use Micromesh and go through all of the pads up to 12,000 grit. Remember to cross-sand after at LEAST the first 4 or 5 pads if you aren't gonna cross-sand on all of them. ...
Click to expand...

What do you mean by cross-sand?
Click to expand...


Sanding back and forth across the length of the barrels with the lathe turned off. Get rid of the marks going around and make the next MM pad more effective. Doesn't take much. Just a few seconds per pad.
 
Drstrangefart said:
airborne_r6 said:
Drstrangefart said:
... I use Micromesh and go through all of the pads up to 12,000 grit. Remember to cross-sand after at LEAST the first 4 or 5 pads if you aren't gonna cross-sand on all of them. ...
Click to expand...

What do you mean by cross-sand?
Click to expand...


Sanding back and forth across the length of the barrels with the lathe turned off. Get rid of the marks going around and make the next MM pad more effective. Doesn't take much. Just a few seconds per pad.
Click to expand...

Thanks, thats what I figured but I always hate to assume.
 
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