CA finishing questions

[Brewmeister35]

I finally got this to work using Fangars method and wow! I had a great response from people. Quite the change from friction polish . I'm hoping for a little knowledge here. First of all, some use BLO with CA and I'm curious as to what it's purpose is with this type of finish. Also, can the wood be darkened using an oil finish or something to bring out the colors on some woods? Would BLO be a good one for that? My last question, I have shellawax EEE polish and everyone seems to recommend HUT ultra plastic polish. I have noticed a lot of threads on the difference in polishes but I still don't completely understand which one's polish to a finer finish. Do I need the plastic polish or is EEE enough?

Thanks,

David

 

[ahoiberg]

david,

never having used EEE, i can't speak for it but i do know that hut ultra will shine a CA finish quite well. i think blo/ca is not as durable as straight ca, although the blo can help pop the grain in the wood a little bit. i only used blo/ca for a brief period while i was trying to perfect regular ca (which i'm still working to do []).

hope this helps. the HUT isn't too expensive and will last you forever, so i'd give it a try and compare it with the EEE.

 

[wdcav1952]

David,

If you use BLO to accentuate the grain of a wood, buff most of it off and let the blank dry overnight. The BLO used with the finish is mostly lubricating agent for the CA as I understand it.

With respect to polish, stroll over to the nearest Wal-Mart and buy a $2 bottle of Kit scratch and haze remover. (Not sure of the exact name, but it is in a yellow bottle in the automotive section.) While there, grab a can of scratch remover compound by, IIRC, Turtle. The Kit polish will replace the EEE and is far cheaper than the Hut. The compound, followed by the Kit polish does a great job on your acrylic blanks.

FWIW,

 

[Texatdurango]

Originally posted by Brewmeister35
<br />I finally got this to work using Fangars method and wow! I had a great response from people. Quite the change from friction polish []. I'm hoping for a little knowledge here. First of all, some use BLO with CA and I'm curious as to what it's purpose is with this type of finish. Also, can the wood be darkened using an oil finish or something to bring out the colors on some woods? Would BLO be a good one for that? My last question, I have shellawax EEE polish and everyone seems to recommend HUT ultra plastic polish. I have noticed a lot of threads on the difference in polishes but I still don't completely understand which one's polish to a finer finish. Do I need the plastic polish or is EEE enough?

Thanks,

David

David,
I too would like to see some discussion as to why some favor the blo/CA application versus straight CA, myself. This seems to be such a controversial subject and I don't understand why, thus these threads never get too far.

I've used CA on several dozen pens now and recently tried the blo/Ca method on about a dozen after watching some videos. Me being a rookie and not having a trained eye yet is probably keeping me from telling the difference but I really haven't seen the benefit of using the blo other than allowing me mere seconds longer smoothing the CA on with a paper towel before the CA starts setting up. Perhaps to some, that makes it worth it's use.

I'll probably anger some again but I have a hunch it's more of a personal preference and whatever you try first and get comfortable with.

If anyone can post specific reasons why the use of blo is necessary or beneficial, I would love to hear it.

As far as what polish to use, I think there are literally hundreds of brands/types to use and probably most will give you the shine you seek. The only polish I have used is a polish I got with my RV for use with granite counter tops but for the life of me can't tell where it added any lustre over a good sanding then buffing with white diamond.

George

 

[gerryr]

I could easily be wrong because I don't use BLO and CA, just straight CA, but from what I have read, it seems that first of all BLO is a mild accelerator and second the BLO helps to smooth the CA so significantly less sanding is required. I recall seeing at least one article that recommended applying the BLO first followed by the CA and others that said just the opposite. I would trust Don Ward's advise on that. When I use CA, I use what is now a pretty modified version of Fangar's method.

As far as polishing is concerned, I just use MM to 12000 and then polish with white diamond. I've tried a couple of scratch removers, one from WalMart and one from the company that makes MM and see any difference between those and white diamond.

 

[wood-of-1kind]

Without over simplifying things. I find that the blo/CA finish gives me more of a satin look whereas straight CA gives me more of a gloss like appearance.

-Peter-[]

 

[leehljp]

I use BLO on some woods where I want to add an amber color, deepen the color or "pop the grain." Oily woods don't need it. When I want whiter looking, especially on holly, I will NOT use BLO. I have used BLO on a few pieces of holly in which I wanted it to look a little like old ivory. Worked too. By the way, here in Japan, I have a dark amber BLO and an almost clear BLO and each add a different color to lighter woods.

If anyone is asking "which is better", I personally think that is the wrong question. A better question is: What am I trying to achieve on which wood? The answer to that will be based on enough experience to know the difference and how to achieve it. THEN not to start another argument, - "enough experience" will not come from words on this forum but from getting into the trenches, ruining a few blanks in the process and discovering for yourself.

There have been numerous well explained documents for CA and CA/BLO, but even with the different ways of explaining and slightly different methods, some have difficulty understanding.No matter which way you slice it, dice it or cut it up, it still is not going to be understood by everyone. All the explanations for swimming will not help in the least until you get into the water! A parachute does not work inside the airplane! Unlike swimming and parachuting, you are not going to die if you ruin a few blanks trying to gain experience.

Get a pine 2X4 cutoff and cut (or have Home Depot or a friend) cut it into a few dozen blanks and EXPERIMENT. Buy a few dozen tubes from PSI or other for less than $10.00 and experiment. There are some great teachers here, but EXPERIENCE is the best! Even the great teachers give accolades to Professor EXPERIENCE!

And lastly, a person's personal preference to turning speed, sanding pressure, sand paper/MM or other, grit, CA application process as well as the wood will be enough to change the outcome as opposed to the next guy - even when a step by step list is followed. So, it boils down to EXPERIMENT for yourself and enjoy the journey!

 

[Brewmeister35]

Thanks everyone. I HAVE tried both and didn't get anything to work properly until finally trying fangar's method and even then I changed it a bit. I did notice the pens with blo had a deeper, richer color but the finish seemed to wear right away into a spotty dull finish with shiny spots. Thanks for all the info []

 

[mdburn_em]

I think you'll find that the Hut product is a finer grit than the EEE. I asked the people at Hut what the grit was but didn't get a response. For what you're using it for, listen to Cav. Save you a lot of money.