CA Finish

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knottyharry

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Being new to all of this, I try to listen and learn from all of you.
My question to you is this.
What is the purpose of the CA finish, and how do you apply it?
Do you do this to all woods, or just certain woods? Like the spalted woods.
Thanks
Harry
 
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I use it on all my wooden pens.I have found the application is not foolproof but when it comes out right the results are AMAZING.
Check the articles section out for methods of application,
Some members have writted excellent ones.
Just a tip,
For your first try stay away from ebony, cocobolo and any other "oily wood"DAMHIKT
 
I've had god results...no, spectacular results, really...using CA, but I just finished a pen using the water based poly lacquer from Compliant Systems...the one Wayne mentioned some time ago. I believe it finishes out almost as glossy and deep as the CA. Maybe not quite as glassy but only someone who has used CA 100% sucessfully would notice the difference--it's that small. Certainly no customer looking at two pens--one finished with CA and the other with WB Poly--would be able to see a difference.

What's more, the poly has no fumes to speak of and except for a final curing of overnight (you may need an extra mandrel) doesn't take any longer to do.

I don't think the sanding sealer is quite as "filling" as using CA as a sanding sealer ...I used it to seal a paduak slimline...but several coats might take care of that. The Maguires works good...might even be suitable for a final touch on CA--it's Maguires #3, BTW.

And this should be a durable finish, as durable as CA, perhaps. Only time will tell.

Overall, I was happy with the results. I'm not allergic to the CA fumes but I don't like them. So...maybe I'll try this for a while.
 
Originally posted by Kim
<br />......I know I posted this before so apologies to those who have already seen it (nothing new today) but this is what a good ca finish can look like:

http://www.linuxpuppy.net/stuff/DSCN0140.JPG
Click to expand...

Kim,

What kind of wood is that?
Have you ever sold a pen like that?
If so, what price goes on a work of art like that?
I've made a couple pens I thought looked good but nothing that beautiful.

Thanks for sharing.
 
DWFII;
How many coats of WB laquer are you applying and what method of application are you using.? ?
I have been experimenting with several different methods of application for the last couple weeks. I have been dissasembling some of my first pens that have a friction polish finish and re- doing them with WB laquer just for the practice of getting it to where I want it. I am just about there after several trail and error attempts.
The one I did with my semi gloss WB before I orderd my high gloss has taken lots of abuse and I have been purposly abusing it like using it with dirty hands in the shop etc. and still looks like I just finished applying the finish to it. It is in my shirt pocket every day and I am finding that it is a very durable finish that is still looking like original. Previous ones with friction finishes would have been either worn off or looked pretty bad after the use that I have given this one.
W.Y.
 
hmmm,

I think not Kim,

Research and the fact that I am telepathetic says that dscn0072 would probably be more like it. [8)]

Cute pup though. I have a blueblood boxer that rules my abode.

Thanks for your kind words. Maybe I'm my own worst critic, but I don't think my pens measure up to most of what I have seen on this forum. I do have something to work towards.
 
W.Y.

What I did was simply apply two or three coats of sanding sealer, sanding in between coats.

Then about three coats of high gloss lacquer, lightly sanding in between coats...just enough to take off the "air bubbles" or dust particles. I let the blank dry about five to 10 minutes in between each coat before going on. Then the last coat went on and was sanded at the 30 minute mark...lightly again--just to level...and then allowed to dry overnight. In the morning I sanded from 1500MM through 12000MM and buffed with Maguires. Then I hit it with Ren wax.

I don't know that I am doing it "right" or even that I am getting the best out of it, but it looked pretty dern close to a perfect CA finish. I don't have any first hand experience of how long it will last or how long it will continue to look "perfect." But this is the stuff they use for pool cues and if you've ever seen the finish on the handle of a "fancy" stick, you know it's special. And those pool cues hold their finish forever.
 
Originally posted by Kim
<br />Simply put, ca is probably the best finish available to penmakers today. It is durable (much more so than wipe-on wax/shellac potions) and when well done, adds considerable value to a pen.

How do you apply it? There are just about as many answers to that question as there are pen turners. And many woods have their own special quirks as well when it comes to ca finishing. And no disrespect to anyone, but there is a lot of myth in the mix too.

Look up the articles already published and give it a go. The published stuff should get you off to a good start. And don't feel afraid to experiment. Nobody yet has come up with a really "perfect-and-right" way to do it.

I know I posted this before so apologies to those who have already seen it (nothing new today) but this is what a good ca finish can look like:

http://www.linuxpuppy.net/stuff/DSCN0140.JPG

Peace to You and Yours;

Kim
Click to expand...

Kim, those are absolutly gorgeous! If you don't mind me asking, where do you get your pen blanks?
 
I wish I could have posted a pic of the pen I finished yesterday. It was a gold cigar pen with angle cut bubinga, sanded to 12000 MM and then a CA finish applied with the finger of a latex glove. Then sanded the CA with MM from 2400 to 12000 and then Crystal Coat. It was by far my best finish to date. I sold it about 5 minutes ago to a co-worker. He liked a lot of the pens I had, but the finish on this one is what sold it.
 
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