CA Finish

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latenitetim

latenitetim

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Feb 6, 2011
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Location
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After chipping a few CA finishes from trying to get my bushing unglued I have been researching here for some help. I am interested in finishing beteen centers but I am wondering if this will create another problem. Since I will not be using the bushings will CA glue now set up on the ends of my turnings and interfere with the nib or band when I assemble the pen?
 
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latenitetim said:
After chipping a few CA finishes from trying to get my bushing unglued I have been researching here for some help. I am interested in finishing beteen centers but I am wondering if this will create another problem. Since I will not be using the bushings will CA glue now set up on the ends of my turnings and interfere with the nib or band when I assemble the pen?
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Use a sanding mill to take care of that problem. You should use it when using bushing too. Makes for a cleaner fit.
 
When I finish with the CA, I take a sharp skew, point down, and VERY carefully cut a grove in the CA on the bushings very close to the tube. I also wax my bushings and mandrel before I start and periodically trim the glue off the bushings as I go. I use plastic bushings made here from plastic cutting boards. Saw squares off the board, drill hole in squre and turn to dimension needed on lathe.
For accelerator application, Monty provided a source of refillable spray cans. They are wonderful. You just pour in the liquid, screw on the top and pump up with the air compressor. WALLA! The accelerator is applied in a very fine mist and does a wonderful job. Last I checked, he had two sizes, 8 oz and 16 oz. OH YES, made in the USA. How about them apples.
Charles
 
This is how I do it.
1. car wax on bushings
2. remill ends after finished (I have'nt made sanding mill)
2 and a half. maybe apply some thin CA on the ends of blank and mill again, if wood. I always apply thin CA on wood blank, when almost milled, before turning, then mill then turn.
Don't know your process or the amount of CA used or thickness
PS. the mill will bite. And not just the blank. I mount the mill in the lathe, so I can control the blank and the lathe speed.
Most that turn between centers use bushings. Someone here sells them that fit on the 60 degree centers.
 
Something else you can try is using old 7mm tubes as spacers and remove the bushings. Use MINIMAL pressure as they will cut into the material if you're not careful. That being said, it eliminates the problem of gluing bushings to the barrel with stuff you already have lying around. Just sand the ends down flat once done finishing. Works out pretty well for me!
 
I made up a few cone shaped busings on 7mm tubes from Corian scraps I picked up at a local countertop shop. I polished the cone surface and apply a bit of wax each time they are used. Another trick I have learned is to stop every other coat, loosen my tail stock (I use a mandrel saver, if you use a standard mandrel you would loosen the nut) and make sure the bushings are free. If they are sticking you only have a thin layer of CA to break free with very little chance of chipping.

This technique does allow a bit of CA to build up on the end of the blank, once off the mandrel I trim it carefully with a sharp razor knife then sand it square.

Chris
 
I encountered the same problem and solved it with delrin bushings at least to my satsfaction. I posted what I did on in "penturning" thread under "bushings do we really need them"
Being new this hobby I am still learning bunches. :redface:
 
I now finish all my blanks between 60 degree centers with no bushings. Works very well for me and I have no problems with the fit. I should mention that I only use thin CA for finishing so there's not a lot of CA going over the ends of the blanks, but enough to seal the ends.
 
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