My answer to all of the CA glue questions is, "There is no way that anyone can screw up putting the CA on the wood. The only difference between a "good" and a "bad" CA finish is what grit sandpaper we start sanding with."
CA is no different from any other finish - You put it on the surface, smooth it out as best you can, and you let it cure. That's it. Then you sand and polish it to whatever degree of gloss you want. If you are in a hurry, you can use an accelerator; but it is a good idea to wait for a minute before using it, and not use too much. Otherwise, the surface can look like popped corn from the CA curing too fast. You don't need the BLO. It is not a requirement for a CA finish; but you can use it to make the CA flow on more smoothly and sometimes accent the grain of the wood.
It doesn't matter whether you use thin or thick CA glue. The thin glue dries faster and it will take more coats to get the same thickness as the thick glue
Once the CA is on the surface and cured, it can be as smooth as glass or as rough as the Swiss Alps. The only difference between the smooth and rough is what grit sandpaper you start using. Start with 150 if it is rough, or 100 if it is really rough, and sand until the surface is smooth. Don't pay any attention to the sanding scratches. That's what the finer grits are for. After the initial smoothing of the surface, all further sanding is for refining the scratch pattern to smaller and smaller until it is too small to see with the nekked eye. At that point the surface will look to be shiny.
After the initial smoothing with the 150, start sanding through the grits until you have reached 12,000 Micro-Mesh, or 2000-grit with the wet-dry (black) sandpaper. You may want to stop at 600 grit, and finish it off with 0000-steel wool for a satin finish, or take that to the buffing wheels for a shiny finish. Don't skip any grits, don't sand too much, and always remove the scratch pattern from the previous used grit before going on to the next.
If you just happen to sand through the CA coating, wipe on a couple wet coats of thin CA. Wipe it on, smooth it out, and STOP while it is still wet. To me a "wet coat" is 7 drops of glue for each pen half. It's no big deal if it is a little rough - just back up a couple grits, sand until it is smooth, and start back up through the grits.
If the final finish is cloudy, there is moisture still in the wood. If the final finish loses its gloss by the next morning, there is oil in or on the wood under the finish. The problem is that you will see neither cloud nor dull until after the finish has been polished to a gloss, and the higher the gloss, the more visible they are.
] Over the past year and half I've watched Russ Fairfields video a thousand times. In fact, I watched his and Ed's (YoYoSpin) videos again last night. CA has been a bugger of a finish but I've got it down now. You'll just have to keep at it. I've never just used scrap wood to practice on...not enough motivation for me to get it right...