CA Finish on Antler?

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massman

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Jun 30, 2006
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Location
Westfield, Ma, USA.
I have turned a few antler pens over the past couple of years and never used CA on them. I also learned not to use micro mesh through trial and error. I finished a couple of Razors and decided to go with the BLO/CA finish with a medium CA. I wanted to seal the antler because of the constant contact with water during the shave. I am happy with the finish and wonder what others do to finish the antler??

This is Moose Antler from my Vermont buddy Steve and I drilled away from the center to get more brown from the outer edge.
 

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I read in Barry Gross workbook to use CA. Then I ordered antler from PSI and the instructions said that one can use eee and shellawax. I tried both and got great results. The 30 cal bullet pens in my gallery are the later of two finishes.
 
For me it all depends on what the customer wants. I do a lot of whitetail and elk antler items and it is about a 50/50 split between raw (unfinished) or finished. On the ones they want unfinished, I will use CA to seal porous marrow if it exposes itself. Otherwise, I sand out to 12000 with MM and buff. In the case of the original post, I would definitely finish with CA simply to seal the antler from any possible stains or water damage.
 
Antler may very well finish nicely without CA but the problem is that even though a particular piece may feel completely smooth it is still microscopically porous like all other bone. Dirty or even clean hands with the natural skin oils will "stain" the antler over time. I do not prefer the inconsistency of various antler pieces so I stabilize about 2 times during roughing with water thin CA then use about 4-6 applications of medium CA. I have really good luck with the sanding pads from PSI (six grits) with water. I then use a 2 buffing wheel set up (tripoli and white diamond) to get a wet porcelain finish that is completely sealed (plasticized).
 
jtdesigns said:
Antler may very well finish nicely without CA but the problem is that even though a particular piece may feel completely smooth it is still microscopically porous like all other bone. Dirty or even clean hands with the natural skin oils will "stain" the antler over time. I do not prefer the inconsistency of various antler pieces so I stabilize about 2 times during roughing with water thin CA then use about 4-6 applications of medium CA. I have really good luck with the sanding pads from PSI (six grits) with water. I then use a 2 buffing wheel set up (tripoli and white diamond) to get a wet porcelain finish that is completely sealed (plasticized).
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I'll just say DITTO!
 
I use CA all the time too, once I get a nice build up I can either MM it to a highly polished shine or partially MM and finish with 0000 steel wool to give it a matte finish.
 
Nice job leaving the dark bark showing. I make a lot of antler pens, I sold a couple dozen of them at the show I've been working today; the pens with bark always go first, then the pens with lots of dark distressed marks, and then the pens with some gray on them. I go over inventory and plan for the next show and the only antler I have left is the nice bright white pens.

BTW, I always CA, MM, buff and put on a coat of plastic polish with antler. I don't like the look of antler that is a year old since it was turned and not finished with CA.
 
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