CA finish alternatives?

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
Fibonacci

Fibonacci

Member
Joined
Feb 9, 2011
Messages
823
Location
Ridgecrest, CA
I have been working with CA for a long time (minis, etc), but I have developed a serious sensitivity to it.

What do people recommend as an alternative? I have seen some discussion of plexi, but that doesn't sound terribly durable to me.
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
There are several people that do a lacquer finish. It is durable and will polish up well. Just takes a little longer, but well worth your health.
 
There is a tutorial in the library for using MinWax Poly that's gorgeous. And as someone pointed out, this stuff is intended for floors and I don't think your pen will get NEAR that sort of abuse.
 
Enduro (General Finish precat varnish) has a good history of success. I have used it for years with good success.
 
I like the depth of sheen you can achieve with lacquer.

I also like using poly too.

Think the piece of wood you have and whether you want a matt or shiny finish should help you decide. People like both, know I do!
 
See this thread on dipping with Enduro. I'm not sure why you would consider lacquer over a low-VOC water based finish with the hardness and wear characteristics that Enduro has.
 
I picked up some mixwax to try that. I am really cheap, so I figure I will see how that works before going with the more expensive enduro.

Thanks for the suggestions.
 
A lot goes into selecting a finish for your wood pens. Just do not think you can stop with one finish or brand for all wood pens. Not all wood pens need a gloss finish. Some woods might look better with a satin or semi gloss.


You have to know something about the wood is it closed or open grain? I might use a different finish for Maple or Cherry considered closed grain compared to Oak and other species considered open grain. Spalted wood needs careful consideration too! How is a pen blank cut, are you dealing with parallel or diagonal grain?


Yes, want a finish that is both easy to apply and durable. I definitely want to know if a finish will yellow or darken with age. Since have trouble reading information of cans and bottles always visit web sites for information. I use different methods of application. I do not always use sanding sealer before applying topcoat. Have not found a finish you cannot brush, dip, spray or wipe on wood. Because temperature and humidity can and does affect finial finish, another reason for not using a one size fits all approach.


If you are happy with only one finishing product, and method of applying stay with it.
 
Well, I am just getting started (4-5 pens/7thumb drives), so I need to figure out one finish first, then I can worry about matching the finish to the wood.

Personally, I like a plain BLO finish on most of the woods that I have fiddled with. That is what I use for myself, but it requires occasional maintenance. If I am going to give away or sell pens, I don't think they should have maintenance required.
 
I've used Minwax WOP on bottle stoppers and have been very happy with the result. I used a Zinsser sealer when applying this on oily woods, and the result is beautiful.

I've also used waterborne poly floor finish. This has the advantage of not yellowing like conventional WOP. On the downside, if it is not applied smoothly, the result can be a bit cloudy. In particular, its necessary to be careful with complex spindles that have deep areas where finish can accumulate unevenly. I'm not sure how this would work over an initial layer of BLO.

The main advantage of CA is that it is relatively fast and a pen can be finished in a few minutes. I have to keep telling myself that I'm doing this for fun and not as a business, and its perfectly OK if I have to leave a piece to dry for a couple of hours between finishing coats. Or conversely, if these alternatives are used in production settings, then it may make sense to devise some alternative finishing arrangement that can accommodate multiple pieces and that doesn't tie up your only lathe.
 
I am holding a Gent Jr. II that is spalted maple that is finished in Min Wax poly. Love it. Love the feel of it and it is tough as nails. I figure if the the poly is good enough for my tables and other furnature that I make then it should work on a pen.
Have had some problems getting the poly to dry on Ebony. I think it has too much oil in the wood. Did get it to work by cleaning the blank with acetone to dry it up. I can't stand the smell of super glue and I have a beard so a vapor resperator does not always give a good seal.
 
I also have a sensitivity to CA, I would feel like I was getting a cold and have trouble breathing at night since my nasal passages would be closed.

On another thread I found mention of Super-gold CA and after trying it on three pens in an afternoon without using any respirator I no longer had any complications.

It is CA that does not have the compounds in it that cause the problems, and yes it costs about twice as much but is worth it since I can stay in the shop even after finishing a pen.
 
I bought a can of MinWax Wipe-On Poly, but think it is too thin for pens, unless you do not mind taking days to build it up, with appropriate drying time between coats.

I am going to give the regular poly a try, I just bought the Wipe-On type since it was on sale, and worth a try. I did use it up on a workbench top that I had just sanded, and it worked well to seal it, and give it a respectable finish, without trying to make the bench look like a piece of furniture.
 
Most pens I do with CA, I've tried BLO/CA and had mixed results, I've used Deft Lacquer on some slimlines and just saw one that's two years old, and it still looks good, , Second refill so I know it gets used alot.
I used to be very proficient with CA but it's something you have to stay with, I hadn't done many pens since October or November and just did some.Well the first two turned out great, I tried another one yesterday and I'm still shaking my head trying to figure out where I screwed up!!
Deft Gloss Lacquer is easy, looks good, doesn't have the plastic feel, WOP takes a long time, BUT when done right is amazing. check out Les in red deer, his pens are amazing, A lot of the guys on the Australian board also use WOP, 10 to 20 coats and polish it with Brasso, Amazing work.
 
I currently do a CA finish. I would like to learn another, but i need some instant gratification. I need to complete the pen blocks to assembly in one session..
 
I've had great luck using waterbased poly. I start with the usual sanding through 800, then apply 2-3 coats of shellac sealer (dewaxed). I dip a piece of lint free cloth in the poly and apply a thin coat with the lathe at slowest speed. I let the lathe run for a couple of minutes. let dry for an hour or so. recoat 2 or 3 or ?? times depending how thick you want it. Finish builds quickly
 
I recently tried the WOP and am not thrilled with it. So far I have applied 4 coats and the results is less than stellar. It is so thin that it is hard to get decent coverage. I am letting it dry overnight and then I am going to try to polish it up and see how it looks. I too need that instant gratification. It's hard applying a finish for days before being able to assemble a pen.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom