CA Blotches

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Tuba707

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I have tried a ton of different way to do a CA finish or a CA/BLO finish, and ALMOST every single time I've had dull blotches after I get it all done. I've been using thin and medium CA and I don't have a clue what the deal is - I've even done Fangar's had this problem. The only thing I can think of is that maybe the CA is not completely cured yet???? Anyone have any advice?
-Joel
 
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Joel,

Could there be any dampness in the wood? If you clean blanks with DNA, there often is some water left in the surface of the wood. This would cause dull spots. Also, make sure the blank has returned to room temperature before applying a CA finish. If the blank is too warm, perhaps moisture has not equalized.

I hope this helps, but it is worth what you paid for it. [8D]
 
Every time I've had that problem it turned out that I had sanded too much of the CA off. Now that I am putting on more, thicker coats of CA and sanding less my pens have been turning out Very well. I do 2 coats of thin followed by 3 coats of medium or thick with no sanding between coats (get the last coat on as smoothly as possible). Then sand with micro mesh.

GK
 
If there is too much pressure on the mandrel from the live center, . . if the bushings are a tad out of round, . . of for even another reason that it is out of round only a small amount, not readily noticable, - then the sanding pressures will be more on one area and will sand through quickly.
 
Hi Joel, Had the same problen consistantly when I first started ca finish. What has worked for me was after final sanding, 800 grit, I put acetone on a clean rag and with lathe on slow wiped the blanks down real good. After 5 minutes or so for drying, I soaked a paper towel folded over 4 times and cut to about finger width or slightly smaller with thin ca (be sure to have rubber glove or a plastic bag like the kit pcs. come in on your finger under paper towel, 'cause it will get HOT FAST. With lathe on slow, apply ca using two passes, no blo yet. This will dry in seconds while you are hopping around trying to get smoking towel off finger if you did not use plastic bag under paper towel, don't ask. Next I put blo on blank, then couple drops of medium ca and lightly work it back and forth until you see it go dull and then while still working it, it will start to shine again. 5 or 6 coats and you are ready to lightly sand with 800 and then mm. Since doing ca this way, my splotches have gone away. After final mm, I use EEE polish. This really brings out the shine b4 Ren. Wax. Many thanks to Russ Fairfield and his video, without I would have given up ca finish and still be all friction polish. Look up his how to in the library and watch it. A must see for ca finish. Thanks Russ.[:D]
 
I use Fangar's method, at least my version. He got me on the right track and I love his method. I use a new paper towel everytime I use any DNA. After I apply the sanding sealer there is no more touching the barrels at all with bare hands or anything dirty. You don't want to use dirty/oily sandpaper or MM to sand the sanding sealer down smooth. You don't want to put anything on the sanding sealer that might react with the CA. Use very clean paper towels to apply the CA. Try to keep it very clean.
 
Joel - Russ has a very good discussion of CA finish problems at: http://www.penturners.org/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=20156 . I share your pain. When I first tried CA I actually had very impressive results. The shine and durability were excellent. Lately I have had nothing but problems that I attribute mainly to the Seattle humidity. I believe some difficulty may be due to the type of wood also. I've tried keeping the wood and the CA in the house rather than the garage with no great improvement. My wife says I'm too picky. As a last resort, I'm going to see if it looks better if I don't wear my glasses [:D]. I hope things will improve in the summer.
 
It may be something as simple as the cold. I was working on my CA finish outside this last winter, it was cold outside. I seem to remember it was cloudy also....anyway, I must have sanded that blank back down to the wood 4 times because I kept getting blotches. I finally left it on the lathe and went inside until the next day. It was sunny and warmer, I did everything the same as day before and got a great finish. I now finish all my pens in the sun, probably nothing to it but haven't had any more trouble. I hope you figure it out, can be so frustrating.
 
I had a few problems also when I first did CA. I used a paper towel to put on like most say they do here. I then changed and use the small bag out of my pen kits to put on the ca. I run about 1/2 speed and put a drop right over my finger with the bag and move from left to right and drop 2-3 drops per side in one way only. So I start on the left and put a smal drop and smooth it with the bag one my finger. Make sure you stop the lathe after each coat. I do around 5 of the med. CA. When I get done I wet sand with MM to 12000. I do wipe with a clean sock or cotton shirt rag with DNA after each sanding pad. I have had no problems as of yet doing this. Hope this helps someone.
 
I've had the same problem. The issue for me was moisture in the wood from DNA and the wood was too hot from sanding. I stopped using DNA and only use compressed air or a quick wipe of acetone.

I also let the blank cool of for at least an hour before starting to finish. I've found if I turn the blank and do all my sanding the friction heats the wood which draws moisture out and ruins the finish. Let it sit for awhile before begin finishing.
 
Could buffing the finish on a buffing wheel heat up the pen and dull the finish? My problem is that I get a really good shine on the lathe with the CA glue and then throw it on the buffing wheel, it looks better, throw some TSW on it, it looks even better, but then when I finish assembling it, it looks dull. Is it the oil and dirt on my hands? After using the TSW should I let the pen sit on the lathe for a few hours? I'm getting good finishes, their just all satin. Is CA capable of producing a gloss shine?

Chuck
 
Originally posted by chazmonro
<br />Could buffing the finish on a buffing wheel heat up the pen and dull the finish? My problem is that I get a really good shine on the lathe with the CA glue and then throw it on the buffing wheel, it looks better, throw some TSW on it, it looks even better, but then when I finish assembling it, it looks dull. Is it the oil and dirt on my hands? After using the TSW should I let the pen sit on the lathe for a few hours? I'm getting good finishes, their just all satin. Is CA capable of producing a gloss shine?

Chuck
Click to expand...

Yes. I haven't buffed a pen because I don't have a set up yet and my finishes are very shiny.

In answer to the original question I had problems as well until I started sealing with a sanding sealer. I was sealing with thin CA but had the blotching. I switched to a sanding sealer and the problems have gone away.
 
I'm still perfecting my CA technique but have seen it improve a lot over the past few weeks. One of the things that helps me, in my area, with my other variables, it to wait before sanding after the last coat of CA is applied. CA is a much harder substance after a few hours of waiting. If you can wait overnight, it is even harder.

I can buld up the layers without a lot of waiting time, but after the last coat is applied, I wait several hours before beginning to work it down to the final finish.
 
I have tried several ways of getting a good CA finish. I feel I have come close to achieving a very good finish. I don't use paper towels, DNA, nor BLO. I found them to cause their own problems. Give me a bottle of thick CA, wet sandpaper, and accelerator. With them a properly sealed blank will soon be wearing a smooth high gloss finish. Here is a link to where I have described my CA finish . . .

http://www.thepenshop.net/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=5405&PN=1
 
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