CA/BLO Question

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Rusty914

Member
Joined
Mar 20, 2008
Messages
58
Location
Madison, Alabama, USA.
I'm starting my first CA/BLO application. This ROCKS!

I've got the first coat down (three or four drops of BLO and thin CA). It looks pretty good. I'm letting it get good and dry before I sand with 1500 wet/dry sandpaper. I plan on doing at least three coats.

My question is, when applying the second coat, should I start with a fresh applicator pad?

thanks,
Rusty
 
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Use a new one or change places on the one you used. You didn't say what you used. I use a folded piece of paper towel. I use one end then the other. I also apply 4 or 5 coats one after the other. No sanding between and no waiting. 4 or 5 coats, micromesh after the last coat only and buffing takes under 10 minutes.
Do a good turn daily!
Don
Originally posted by Rusty914

I'm starting my first CA/BLO application. This ROCKS!

I've got the first coat down (three or four drops of BLO and thin CA). It looks pretty good. I'm letting it get good and dry before I sand with 1500 wet/dry sandpaper. I plan on doing at least three coats.

My question is, when applying the second coat, should I start with a fresh applicator pad?

thanks,
Rusty
Click to expand...
 
Use a new one or change places on the one you used. You didn't say what you used. I use a folded piece of paper towel. I use one end then the other. I also apply 4 or 5 coats one after the other. No sanding between and no waiting. 4 or 5 coats, micromesh after the last coat only and buffing takes under 10 minutes.
Do a good turn daily!
Don
Originally posted by Rusty914

I'm starting my first CA/BLO application. This ROCKS!

I've got the first coat down (three or four drops of BLO and thin CA). It looks pretty good. I'm letting it get good and dry before I sand with 1500 wet/dry sandpaper. I plan on doing at least three coats.

My question is, when applying the second coat, should I start with a fresh applicator pad?

thanks,
Rusty
Click to expand...
 
OK, let me ask a dumb question because after about 50 pens I'm still about to throw my hands up in the air on CA as a finish. I put about 5 coats of the BLO / CA cocktail. How long do you let it dry after that last application?

The reason I ask is some of my finishes shine like glass after the micromesh, others it looks "streaky" in places, while in others I get a white looking streak (is that due to getting too hot because I'm either sanding too long with the MM, it's a "bad" spot in the wood, something due to the type of wood I'm spinning into futility on the lathe?).

My skew gets a good workout taking the layer off and trying again....any suggestions would be appreciated, as the "just keep trying and you'll get it right" sometimes frustrates the ^&$( out of me.

Thanks-

Michael
 
Michael,
I know of your frustration. But for me it has been so long ago that I've almost forgotten just how frustrating it can be.
Originally posted by Gagler

OK, let me ask a dumb question because after about 50 pens I'm still about to throw my hands up in the air on CA as a finish. I put about 5 coats of the BLO / CA cocktail. How long do you let it dry after that last application?
Click to expand...
After the last application I sand (if needed) immediately and then buff. From the first drop of CA to the final buff: for me, under 10 minutes. I try not to have to sand between coats and go straight to micromesh after the last application.

The reason I ask is some of my finishes shine like glass after the micromesh, others it looks "streaky" in places, while in others I get a white looking streak (is that due to getting too hot because I'm either sanding too long with the MM, it's a "bad" spot in the wood, something due to the type of wood I'm spinning into futility on the lathe?).
Click to expand...
I think many of the problems you mention with streaks and white areas happen because the finish is sanded away in places. I do not use accelerator either. I find that continuing to rub back and forth with the applicator for a longer time makes the finish smooth out. I guess what I'm trying to say is when I help with this finish in person, what I see is the applicator being removed way too soon. Keep it moving back and forth. Some woods are more problematic that others. I clean the wood prior to starting the finish with accelerator...not denatured alcohol. I purchase accelerator in a bottle and use it for cleaning. It evaporates quickly and does not interfere in any way with the finish.

My skew gets a good workout taking the layer off and trying again....any suggestions would be appreciated, as the "just keep trying and you'll get it right" sometimes frustrates the ^&$( out of me.
Click to expand...
Do you use sanding sealer or a slurry of CA and sanding dust? I think the CA slurry is quite beneficial. Read my CA article at http://www.RedRiverPens.com/articles and give it a try. Good luck with this finish. Don't give up. It is a finish worth the effort and when you get it down you'll wonder why it was so difficult. It is really an easy finish...really it is.
Do a good turn daily!
Don
 
Rusty,

I would suggest after applying 3 coats of BLO/CA begin sanding with the 4000 grit mm and continue through 12000. The 1500 grit may be too coarse and remove part of the BLO/CA finish.

Ed-- Portland, OR
 
thanks for all the input!

I've completed my fourth coat of the CA/BLO. I'm getting some variability in the finish going around the pen. No discoloration, but visible changes in gloss. Is this normal or have I made a mistake? Will this disappear with some polishing?

(Regarding the MM... I don't have any here. I keep auto body sandpaper (up to 2000 grit wet/dry) in my garage.)

thanks,
Rusty
 
Rusty, what kind of wood did you use when you had visible changes in gloss? I find this to be true when the wood is oily wood such as cocobolo. Normally when I use an oily wood I clean the wood first and apply either a sanding sealer or slurry of CA and sanding dust like Don said. On these problem woods I don't use BLO with this sealing preparation. I have successfully used BLO with oily woods after cleaning and sealing using one of the forementioned methods. Others on this forum avoid using BLO at all with oily woods.
 
Funny you should ask... it is cocobolo. Yes, I used a light slurry of CA as I worked my way through the finer grits.

This is a higher end fountain pen kit as a belated graduation present... I wanted a more durable finish than plain old friction polish. :)
 
Rusty, you might have to sand the blank down and apply several coats of thin CA without BLO. Then I would apply about 4 coats of medium CA with or without BLO. Sometimes it is flustrating! I finish my pens without BLO when using problem wood or white wood such as holly. However I fing that when I do use BLO the finish is smoother and quicker to sand out. Hope this helps vs. confuse you.
 
I used to use two coats of thin CA as a start, letting each coat dry before applying the next and then 4 coats of medium CA also allowing each to dry between coats. After reading another members post about BLO being a mild accelerant I experimented one day and hit on what I am happiest with to date. Now I dip my finger in a small jar of BLO and with the lathe turning at 500 RPM I apply the oil to the turning blanks by running my finger tip back and forth until the blanks are coated all around with a thin coat of BLO. Then using a folded paper towel I hold it against the turning blanks and run it back and forth for about 3 seconds removing most of the oil film. Then I apply one thin coat of CA by holding the paper towel under the bottom of the blanks and I drizzle the CA onto the top of the turning blanks. I place a few drops on each end of each blank, then a few in the middle and then a few on the opposite end. I am moving the paper towel back and forth the whole time spreading the CA over the entire blank. Then I take a scissor and cut off the end of the paper towel, about 3/4" of an inch to remove the section that is now crusty from the previous application. If you don't do this you will ruin the next coat as it will not go on smoothly. I then add 4 coats of medium in the exact same procedure, a little oil, then most of it removed with paer towel, then the CA. The beauty of this method is that I no longer have to wait 3-5 minutes between coats for the CA tod dry. The thin film of BLO acting as a mild accelerant causes each application of CA to dry either instantly or within 30 seconds and the blanks are then ready for the next coat immediately. Then I use the MM pads through 12000.I use the first 3 0f the 9 pads to a count of twenty while moving them back and forth over the blanks turning @ 2800 RPM. Then I stop and look for any sections with orange peel. You will need some good light and a little magnification to get a good look. If there is any I go back with the third pad and use a 10 count and stop and look again. I don't go the next pad until the orange peel is just about all gone. Then the remaining 6 pads used wet for an 8 count on each blank will leave the blanks with the finish you want. I hope that helps.
 
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