CA/BLO Not Building

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Alex D

Member
Joined
Oct 3, 2013
Messages
104
Location
Redondo Beach, CA
I am new to any type of CA finish, so I read as much as I could here, watched the videos, etc. and ended up trying a few pens pretty much using Russ Fairfield's technique. I was using CSUSA's Pen Finish (which, incidentally, they no longer seem to carry, but it was advertized as a flexble medium CA).

I applied the CA, with paper towel, then smoothed it out with a puddle of BLO, rubbing quickly across the blank with decent pressure until I got the curing CA smell. It looked glossy, and then I wiped off the excess BLO.

I did quite a few coats and then checked the dimensions with calipers and realized that I was at the same diameter as when I started.

From Russ' video, it looks like he is applying decent pressure when he is applying the BLO.

I ended up sanding down what little was on the blank and tried several coats of straight thin CA for the first time. It built quite quickly. I clearly need more practice though as I did have to spend a decent amount of time sanding down ridges. That is one of the reasons I was going with the CA/BLO route.

So.... clearly something isn't right. Am I applying too much pressure when using the BLO and basically wiping everything off? Is the curing smell just the CA curing on the paper towel? Maybe it was the CSUSA Pen Finish?

Thanks!
Alex
 
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Alex - there are as many ways to do a CA finish as there are people here. That said, I gave up on BLO/CA a while ago and only do CA. My experience was similar to yours. I typically do 8-10 coats of thin, sometimes with accelerator, mostly in the later coats. I do build up ridges this way. I sand the blank smooth (400 or 600) and like to wait a day or two till the CA is fully cured before I final sand and polish.

Hang tight. Once you figure out YOUR way, the results will be worth the effort.
 
The only thing I can think is your using way too much blo. You said a puddle...I use a drop of blo with 2-3 drops of ca on top of it and can build a pretty good ca base before I mm..but like the man said..there's going to be as many ways as turners:wink:..oh and I use medium also
 
Never used BLO personally. I use a couple of coats of thin CA to soak into the wood, then use medium CA for the finish , (usually 8-10 coats). I'll sand it down to get everything evened out and move onto to finer and finer grits before polishing/buffing. I pay attention to the finish along the way, just in case I need to adjust what I'm doing to meet the needs of that particular blank. I tried to follow exact routines I found online when I started turning, but consider them starting places in your journey to find what works for you. You may see a YouTube video and try to follow that to the letter, but you may or may not be applying the exact same pressure as them, or maybe you cut the tip of your CA bottle off too far down, and your drops are bigger than theirs, (all this to say little things can affect the outcome). Focus and THINK about what is happening when you apply each coat. Turn the lathe off and look at the blank after each coat and see how the finish process is moving along. I have a basic procedure that I use for CA finishes, but sometimes I may get a little aggressive with my sanding to even it out and sand through. Or perhaps I needed to fill some voids and didn't realize I left an area with not enough CA, and now it's low and holding sanding dust. Then I need to go back a step to ensure the finish come out right in the end. If I just tried to follow a set routine, I would miss these things until assembly. This may or may not help you, but look at those vidoes as guides to help you find YOUR method. :wink:
 
Thanks for all the tips folk. I probably wasn't correct in describing the BLO as a puddle, it is about 6-8 drops.

I had read a lot of good things about the approach, but it seems like I am getting a nice finish using straight CA, it just takes more sanding time. I am fine with that. I am not in a hurry and the whole process is pretty theraputic.

I will give BLO another shot, using less pressure and a true medium CA and I'll see how it goes.

Thanks!
 
Way too much boiled linseed oil. You should not need to wipe off anything after an application. A few drops of CA on your paper towel and a drop of boiled linseed oil next to it. Apply the CA then immediately apply the oil on top. They should mix and the CA will cure. Nothing to wipe off.

If you like the results you get without using boiled linseed oil then why use it? I use it because I get a better finish with it. But I would bet more do not use boiled linseed oil that those that do.

Do a good turn daily!
Don



Thanks for all the tips folk. I probably wasn't correct in describing the BLO as a puddle, it is about 6-8 drops.

I had read a lot of good things about the approach, but it seems like I am getting a nice finish using straight CA, it just takes more sanding time. I am fine with that. I am not in a hurry and the whole process is pretty theraputic.

I will give BLO another shot, using less pressure and a true medium CA and I'll see how it goes.

Thanks!
 
I skipped the BLO when I was learning because I didn't have Don to teach me. CA ridges went away when I switched to thin CA. 2 drops on a paper towel, wipe the blank down/back once litely and apply the next 2 drops repeat, repeat, repeat.... I accelerate every 4 coats, but may not need to. Just want a solid set. Build to 16-20 coats takes about 3 minutes. I was over working it when I first started - back and forth until it was getting sticky - not good. With no ridges, you also shouldn't need to wet sand as much which usually ends up with a bare spot somewhere.
 
I didnt have any luck with the blo/ca.
I just med. Ca and paper towl. Abd sand it with 320, 400,600 then wetsand it to about 7500
 
If you like the results you get without using boiled linseed oil then why use it? I use it because I get a better finish with it. But I would bet more do not use boiled linseed oil that those that do.

Don, thank you. I've only tried the straight CA this once, if I end up having trouble with it, I'll try CA/BLO again, but with a lot less BLO!

Thanks,
Alex
 
I have found that if either the BLO or CA have been left out in the heat for any length of time, the finish will NOT build. I keep mine in the house with the air conditioning, decanting a little BLO in a small bottle as needed.

I fold a paper towel to about an inch wide (four folds), then put one or two drops of FRESH BLO and add two or three drops of FRESH medium CA depending on whether it is a short or long blank..2 drops for short, 3 drops for long. I rub it back and forth under the spinning blank for about 50 strokes. With a good light on the blank you will see it go dull, then come back up shiny. When the reflected light "line" comes sharp and narrow, it is ready for another coat.

I turn over my paper towel and use the other side, then the next coat I take a pair of scissors and cut off the used part and repeat. I usually do between six and twelve coats, depending on whether or not it has turquoise infill. If it has the turquoise, I continue coats until I cannot feel any roughness at the infill. Sometimes I finish off with a little plastic polish if I want a really high gloss.



Sharon
 
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Thank you all for the great tips. I am going to give the BLO another try.

In the meantime, I tried a straight CA finish and ended up with this on a dyed poplar stabilized blank:

Curly%25201%2520Small.jpg


I have to say that I now see why it is such a popular finish and I also see the appeal of a simpler method along the lines of using BLO. Finger's crossed it stays this way and doesn't crack on me. Three days so far!

Thanks!
Alex
 
CA-BLO finish

The pen shown is cross cut walnut from the same plank. I used BLO only on the bare wood to bring out the grain and then 20 coats of medium CA. Occasionally I get some pits with white spots in them. It takes time, the CA is tacky even with accelerator. If you go to heavy with the accelerator it boils the CA.
On another pen I did the CA-BLO thing (8 coats) and wound up with a finish that was not shiney but a little on the satin side. Still looked nice but I had to practice on a couple scrap blanks to get it right then make sure I did exactly the same process on each pen or the results would not turn out very well.
Trial and error I would guess. Takes patience and practice, and lots of free time in my case. I dont use fancy hardware either. Too much bling takes away from what I would like to see in my pens.
A word on cross cutting blanks, I found the turning to be somewhat a delicate touch and the sanding very easy being the grains are turning at you instead of left to right. Very different finish IMO.
 

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I tried blo when I first started the CA finish but didn't have great luck with it. Tried straight thin CA and it seemed to pop the grain as much as the BLO did. What I wound up with is 2 coats of thin CA, that pops the grain and seals the wood. Then 8 coats of med. CA. I sand the wood to 600 grit before and CA is applied then do not sand between coats of CA. After the last coat of CA is applied I wet sand using water as a lubricant and standard wet/dry sandpaper. Start at 2000 grit go to 2500 grit then jump to 25000 grit. This removes any lines and ridges then I finish off with a liquid plastic polish. I tried a few different plastic polishes and the brand did not seem to make any difference.
 
Here is my CA/BLO finish method.

I currently use medium CA and BLO from Lowe's.

I fold a half-sheet paper towel in thirds.

I put the top of the paper towel over the mouth of the BLO container and quickly upturn it. This is probably equivalent to 5-10 drops. I let it soak in.

I then rub the BLO into the blank (lathe OFF). The first application you want to make sure the wood soaks in as much as it can so I leave it on for a minute or so then wipe it down witha dry paper towel.

Now, with the lathe OFF, put a couple drops of CA on a fresh portion of the paper towel and wip it back and forth while hand turning the lathe. I only do this until everything is coated then stop since the CA starts curing quickly. I usually turn on the lathe for a minute while it hardens although I have wondered if this help since it is a chemical reaction and not a drying process.

Again wipe down the blank with a thin coat of BLO. I have found that too much BLO keeps the CA from hardening very quickly. Another coupl drops of CA on the towel and wip until covered. I usually put on 5 coats then snad with 1200 to remove any imperfections and to flatten the base finish. I then put on 3 or so more. If the finish looks flat then I stat with 1800 and work my way up to the highest grit I have. Then I finish with the liquid heat-activate polish with the lathe spinning.

This seems to work well for me.
 

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Never used BLO personally. I use a couple of coats of thin CA to soak into the wood, then use medium CA for the finish , (usually 8-10 coats). I'll sand it down to get everything evened out and move onto to finer and finer grits before polishing/buffing. I pay attention to the finish along the way, just in case I need to adjust what I'm doing to meet the needs of that particular blank.
I use a similar method for CA finish. I go 3 or 4 coats of thin without accelerator as it usually sets quickly. I then go about another 6 coats of medium CA for the finish. I use accelerator on the medium, but only a very, very small spray of it and at a distance from the blank. I don't use enough to get it to leave white spots.

I level with 600 grit sand paper wet. Then use the Micro-mesh pads out to 12000 grit. After I'm done sanding I turn up the speed and use some
Renaissance Micro Crystalline wax polish to finish it out. Leaves the surface very shiny, but doesn't really show finger prints.

This is my daily beater pen that I made about a year ago out of curly Koa. Use it at work daily and it has held up well. Really impressed with how durable the CA finish has been...Not the best picture as it was taken with my phone
6d314abf-29cd-4ce0-b5a2-c73044ae7edb_zps8a4f6eb4.jpg
 
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