I had posted this message on another thread, but thought it might deserve being it's own topic.
Why does everyone try to make a CA finish so complicated?? CA glue is no different from any other finish except that it cures faster and harder. The rules for surface preparation are the same, and the ways we can apply it are the same.
Try this. It can't get any simpler.
Sand to 400 grit, and then work the wood surface with the lathe off until it is a uniform dull gloss, with no flaws. Don't clean it off. Leave the sanding dust on the wood. Then apply a 5 or 6 large drops of Medium or Thick CA glue with 220-grit sandpaper and the lathe running at a slow speed that doesn't fling the excess glue in your face. Add more if the 5 drops weren't enough. Don't be shy about slopping on a little extra. The worst that can happen is that more sanding may be necessary. Move to a dry place on the 220 sandpaper as the glue starts to cure. You will know when it is ready by the smell. Sometimes there will be smoke. The CA slurry will fill any open grain and voids, repair any cracks, and leave a thick film on the wood. Let it cure by itself. If you are really in a hurry or in love with accelerator, wait 1-minute and give it a squirt.
Don't worry about the brand name on the bottle or how old it is. If it comes out of the bottle in drops, and can be spread with the sandpaper, it is OK. Again, the worst that can happen is that you will have to sand more. I have yet to find one that didn't work.
That's it. How complicated was that?? The rest is just a matter of sanding and polishing the surface.
Now sand to 320 and 400. Work it over with the 400 grit with the lathe OFF until there is a uniform matte finish with NO FLAWS. "No flaws" means no sanding scratches, no dimples, no bumps, and no shiny spots.
There should be no way you have sanded through the CA with 320 or 400 grit, but apply a coat of THIN CA glue if you wish. 8 drops on the paper towel for most pens, and smooth it out with the lathe running. No need for an accelerator, but wait 1-minute if you insist on using it. Polish that with 0000-steel wool, or 600 grit if it is rough. Use some wax with the 600-grit if it is really rough.
Use the 0000 steel wool for a soft satin finish. If you want more gloss, take it to the buffing wheels, apply a shellac friction polish, or go up through the 4, 6, 8, and 12 thousand Micro Mesh. Then give it a coat of Renaissance wax.
The wood will look just as good, the surface will be just as glossy, and it will be just as durable as any of the CA finishes that required 346 steps, 2 days, a doctorate degree, and a training manual to accomplish.
Time? All of the above takes no more than 10-minutes max.
Why does everyone try to make a CA finish so complicated?? CA glue is no different from any other finish except that it cures faster and harder. The rules for surface preparation are the same, and the ways we can apply it are the same.
Try this. It can't get any simpler.
Sand to 400 grit, and then work the wood surface with the lathe off until it is a uniform dull gloss, with no flaws. Don't clean it off. Leave the sanding dust on the wood. Then apply a 5 or 6 large drops of Medium or Thick CA glue with 220-grit sandpaper and the lathe running at a slow speed that doesn't fling the excess glue in your face. Add more if the 5 drops weren't enough. Don't be shy about slopping on a little extra. The worst that can happen is that more sanding may be necessary. Move to a dry place on the 220 sandpaper as the glue starts to cure. You will know when it is ready by the smell. Sometimes there will be smoke. The CA slurry will fill any open grain and voids, repair any cracks, and leave a thick film on the wood. Let it cure by itself. If you are really in a hurry or in love with accelerator, wait 1-minute and give it a squirt.
Don't worry about the brand name on the bottle or how old it is. If it comes out of the bottle in drops, and can be spread with the sandpaper, it is OK. Again, the worst that can happen is that you will have to sand more. I have yet to find one that didn't work.
That's it. How complicated was that?? The rest is just a matter of sanding and polishing the surface.
Now sand to 320 and 400. Work it over with the 400 grit with the lathe OFF until there is a uniform matte finish with NO FLAWS. "No flaws" means no sanding scratches, no dimples, no bumps, and no shiny spots.
There should be no way you have sanded through the CA with 320 or 400 grit, but apply a coat of THIN CA glue if you wish. 8 drops on the paper towel for most pens, and smooth it out with the lathe running. No need for an accelerator, but wait 1-minute if you insist on using it. Polish that with 0000-steel wool, or 600 grit if it is rough. Use some wax with the 600-grit if it is really rough.
Use the 0000 steel wool for a soft satin finish. If you want more gloss, take it to the buffing wheels, apply a shellac friction polish, or go up through the 4, 6, 8, and 12 thousand Micro Mesh. Then give it a coat of Renaissance wax.
The wood will look just as good, the surface will be just as glossy, and it will be just as durable as any of the CA finishes that required 346 steps, 2 days, a doctorate degree, and a training manual to accomplish.
Time? All of the above takes no more than 10-minutes max.
] Thanks, Russ, I always wondered about all the fuss myself, just don't have the eloquence to put it out there as nicely!
