Buffing Wheels??

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dankc908

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Mar 24, 2009
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576
Location
Council Bluffs, IA
I have been able to both "repair" and "replace" my old lathe. The old lathe has, now, been repaired and I am wondering what the conventional wisdom is regarding setting this lathe up as a buffing station. Please correct me if I am wrong, but, would I be better off with a "2-wheel" setup for acrylics or a "3-wheel" setup for wood? On my acrylics I currently MM to 12000 and use one-step plastic polish. On my wooden pens I have used CA/BLO in the past and have been using Turner's Magic lately. Any ideas, thoughts, etc. would be greatly appreciated.
 
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I do as you do for acrylics... wet sand with MM to 12000 then plastic polish. I then buff using the methods George (Texatdurango) uses as described here ..

http://www.penturners.org/forum/showthread.php?t=55476&highlight=buffing+kicked

For wood, I dry sand through to 1200-2000, then apply a few coats of thin ca followed by more coats of med. ca. Then I wet sand with MM just as I do for acrylics but instead of using plastic polish I will then use EEE ultrashine. Then buff using George's method. fwiw :smile:
 
I "personally" use the 3-wheel buff system for both wood & plastic.

wheel 1= tripoli (I do NOT use it on platic but do so for wood)
wheel 2= white diamond
wheel 3= carnuaba wax

It may be overkill but I also have a four(4) wheel version on a solid machine shaft(MT2) and the fourth wheel is just "plain" without any of the compounds on it.
 
I have been through most of the variations of buffing setups around at one time or another, both buffing handmade knives and now pens. And to be honest almost all work pretty well, from the basics of a cotton buff on a bolt mounted in a drill press, to a 3 buff system running on a vs lathe. The single most important thing to keep any buffing system working well is keeping the buffs CLEAN!!! The buff on a bolt thing with generic compounds from sears will produce a better finish than the most expensive multistep setup available, IF the buffs on the multistep get dirty!

So, the question, IMHO, is not so much which type of system does the better job, but "which system is easiest to keep clean" The best way to keep a buff clean is to keep it sealed in its own separate ziplock bag until you are ready to use it. Then do a quick sweep of the buffing station with your DC hose or shopvac, and then mount the buff. So, if you want the very best results, a quick change single buff solution is my recommendation. Now if you just have your heart set on a fancy multiwheel system, take some time and think about how you are going to keep it clean before you get it. Cause once it shows up, you are going to have to do "just a couple of pens", then something else will happen and by the time you get around to doing something, the buffs are already contaminated. (that's the way it always seems to work out for me, anyway). As for what to do, that really depends on your setup, but for most folks where the buffing station is in the shop with everything else, your best options are to either have a fairly airtight enclosure that can be placed over the entire setup (best) or a permanent enclosure somewhere nearby that you can hang the buffs in as soon as you take them off the lathe. You want the buffs to be able to hang without touching anything if possible. The last solution, which I don't favor because it requires the user to remember to do something every time, is to use some sort of individual cover on the buffs. A plastic grocery bag put over the buffs and tied underneath will do just as good a job of keeping stuff off the wheels as a fancy sealed cabinet, until you forget to put them on that one time and fire up the lathe or the tablesaw or whatever.
 
On wood I sand through 600, apply a CA/BLO finish and move on to the Beale 3 wheel system. I seldom use the tripoli wheel just the white diamond and carnuba and top off with Ren wax or ice.
On acrylics i sand through 600 and then white diamond, carnuba and Ice or Ren wax.
I have not used any MM since I started using the Beale system.
 
Very good point(s) jskeen in regards to keeping the wheels as clean as possible. Once removed from my lathe, I seal my buffing shaft/wheels in a large polybag and then store in a seperate case (large duffel bag) to further keep the dust/contaminants out that linger in the workshop.I occasionally use a "file rake" to brush away the compound build up that develops over time. If you practise good cleaning habits, the wheels can last for years, assuming you have purchased qood quality wheels to begin with.
 
I just take an old pen mandrel. Then take three 4" buffing wheels, slide one on the mandrel all the way to the mores taper. You will have to turn some hardwood down to fit the inside hole on the wheels (like a bushing). Slide a small washer on next (inside diameter of washer has to be close to the size of mandrel rod). Then I took two 7mm tubes 2 1/2" long find some old hardwood you will never use for anything. Drill and glue the tube, turn wood down to 3/8" for spacers in between the wheels. Slide spacer on mandrel then another washer and second buffing wheel, then another washer,spacer and last buffing wheel, then one more washer. You might have to make a spacer for the and or just throw a few 7mm spacers. The knurl nut tightens everything up. I use two stitched buffing wheels for my charge wheels one with tripoli (not for acrylics) the second stitched wheel is for white Diamond (for just about everything) My third wheel is not stitched with nothing on it (used for clean up, Renaissance wax, polishing) I made mine for $13.00 and a old mandrel. $4.00 each for buffing wheels(home depot) and a buck or less for the washers. I used two barrels from a couple slimlines I screwed up. Its been working great for me, was cheep and no more scratches.
 
I use the Beall three buff system but I only use two, I don't use the carnuba wax one so it also gives me more room between wheels. I don't bother to keep it it a bag or anything, I just take it down off the wall, mount it in my lathe, turn it on and blow all the dust off with compressed air. It works for me.:wink::biggrin:
 
I use the Beall three buff system but I only use two, I don't use the carnuba wax one so it also gives me more room between wheels. I don't bother to keep it it a bag or anything, I just take it down off the wall, mount it in my lathe, turn it on and blow all the dust off with compressed air. It works for me.:wink::biggrin:

To be honest, my homemade two buff system spends most of it's time mounted in my old craftsman single tube lathe, uncovered. :eek: I said it was important to keep it clean if you want the BEST finish, not that I remembered to do it myself. :wink: I do pretty well with just vac-ing the buffs right after I turn them on most of the time, and using a buff rake on them when I start to notice the tiny angled scratches in my finish.

But..... If you want the BEST finish, keep them CLEAN!!:biggrin:
 
My drill press has become my dedicated buffing station . I use buffing wheel mandrels from Home Depot , I have several of them with 8" wheels which I store in plastic zip lock bags and chuck them up as needed for different compounds and materials . The most used one (white diamond) usually stays chucked in the DP and I take a large zip lock bag and zip it around the chuck to keep it clean . I also always use my rake before I buff anything to clean out any compound build up . The rake I use is a dog grooming brush (the one with all the little stainless steel needles) , it cleans well and is gentle on the buffs .
 
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