Buffing question

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doddman70

Member
Joined
Apr 1, 2007
Messages
1,073
Location
Eugene, Oregon USA.
I bought a buffing set up awhile back to help get rid of those really fine circular scratches that I sometimes see in my plastic blanks after MM (thru 12000) usually in the darker colors.
The problem is that I keep getting dull spots when I buff using the white diamond with the wheels I bought from AS. I have tried different angles and pressures, nothing seems to help. Would the different grades of wheels from Beal make a difference?
 
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Sounds like MAYBE you're generating too much heat. An 8" wheel should go no faster than 1750 rpm.. What kind of wheel is it? Beall uses a linen- cotton flannel combination for WD. I've been using my Beall for a long time and can't say that I've ever had the same problem as you.
 
Rick it is the Muslin Buffing Wheel that arizona sells. i have tried different amounts of pressure and different angles as well as how fast or slow i run the blank on the wheel. so is a muslin wheel harder or coarser than the one that comes on the beal?? basically should i dump these wheels that i got from arizona and buy a beal set up and chalk it up to experience?
 
Shane, muslin wheels are used with abrasives such as emery or tripoli. The one you have is probably stitched together in a spiral pattern. For WD you want a LOOSE cotton-linen or flannel wheel. Loose wheels are just sewn together at the very center.
If you do decide on a Beall you won't regret it.:)
 
You may be asking too much from the buffing wheel and the Micro-Mesh. Buffing is for polishing a smooth surface, and not for sanding. The same is true for any Micro-Mesh above 4000.

There should be no visible scratches after using the 12,000 grit Micro-Mesh. The grit is close to 1-micron in size, and the only way you should be able to see the scratch pattern is with a bright light and magnification. Any visible scratches are there from prior grits; and they are often left over from the first and coarsest grit you used. You just couldn't see them because they were hidden in the dull surface.

The higher the gloss, the more you can see, and those scratches may not have been visible until the surface was made shiny with the Micro-Mesh. The best way to make sure the surface has no scratches is to carefully work the surface with the 400 and 600 grits before using the finer Micro-Mesh. The surface should be smooth and free of all scratches and blemishes before going past 600 grit. If it isn't you should go back and remove tham. You can improve the gloss after the 600-grit with 0000-steel wool to make sure.

Once you have a smooth surface at 600-grit, there is a choice between buffing or going to the higher Micro-Mesh geades. They are essentially the same particle sizes, and their effect on the surface should be similar.

Buffing after 12,000 MicroMesh can improve the gloss on some finishes and plastics, but White Diamond should never reduce the gloss from the 12,000 because they are to close to being the same.
 
Thanks a lot guys for all the info i think i have a little more research to do and try a couple of things to see what happens but it does sound like i need to get a conton flannel or a loose wheel like the beal.
 
Shane,

here's another avenue.I was in an ACE hardware store and noticed their buffing wheels made by Dico products. The two they carried are listed below. I believe the costs for the wheels were $5.99 or $ 6.99.



Canton Flannel Buffs â€" For use with rouge to color gold, silver, and other precious metals. Discs of soft flannel joined by two or four circles of lockstitch sewing. Follow intricate contours easily and will not scratch. Recommended for all final coloring operations. This extra soft wheel will give you the most brilliant finish of all buffs. Made of the finest combed flannel to create an extra soft nap. Blistered and boxed buffs have a 1†hole size packaged with DICO toothed flanges for 1/2†spindle. With bulk orders please specify required arbor hole size.
Their number for this is # 60
Two sewed strand.


Loose Sewn Buffs â€" An extremely flexible wheel for color buffing. Gives very slight cutting action and is great for hard-to-reach surfaces. Made of fine weave cotton discs joined by one circle of sewing around the arbor hole. Please specify required arbor hole size.

They number this with a # 36
One sewed strands.

hope this helps.

bill daniels
 
Trouble Shooting:
Swirl Marks or Scratches In The Finish: Do not skip steps. Spend approximately the same amount of time using each sanding pad. Be sure too completely remove the sanding residue after each sanding pad before moving onto the next step. If you do not remove the residue, it may cause some of your scratches! Lathe speed should be approximately 1000 - 1500 rpm. Do not use on extreme high speeds.
 
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