Brass and Aluminum 2 layer hand cut spiral pen

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
See more from Tom McMillan

Status
Not open for further replies.

Tom McMillan

Member
Joined
Jan 1, 2004
Messages
1,598
Location
Washougal, WA, USA.
Here's something I've been thinking about for a long time, and finally completed it. It's made of brass and aluminum and I did hand cut the spirals in the pen and turned it on my wood lathe. I did it with a 10K slimline kit. Wish I could do better with the photo, this is the best one I was able to take.



200533173348_brassalumspiral%20013.jpg
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad

DCBluesman

Passed Away Mar 3, 2016
In Memoriam
Joined
Aug 22, 2004
Messages
7,679
Location
WOODBRIDGE, VIRGINIA
Wow! A remarkable continuance of your "theme". That one should get you in the Pen Maker's Guild! Ooopppsss--you already are![:D]
 

Tom McMillan

Member
Joined
Jan 1, 2004
Messages
1,598
Location
Washougal, WA, USA.
Thanks guys. Yes, it was fun to make---did take quite awhile---but, to me---I'm getting to kind of like it when it comes out decent.

I used a piece of predrilled 6061 aluminum that a pen tube fit perfectly and a piece of predrilled brass tube that fit perfectly over the aluminum---they were glued with epoxy. I hand cut the spiral with the same bastard file I use for my wood spirals. The centerband is made from a 3/8" flare plug that I cut down, and glued in a brass tube (it was predrilled to a very close size) and I glued the tube in with JB Weld, and used a file and turning tools to shape it and then sanded.
 

woodscavenger

Member
Joined
Jan 16, 2005
Messages
1,491
Location
Boise, ID, USA.
What can I say, long live the spiral. Very well done. I love the creativity and infusion of other crafts and materials. I am beginning to see that we don't even have abox to think outside of.
 

Tom McMillan

Member
Joined
Jan 1, 2004
Messages
1,598
Location
Washougal, WA, USA.
For anyone interested, I did give a little more detail at the Penmaker's Guild posts. I believe everyone has access to those at the Guild website. If not, I can repeat that information here. Thanks for all the comments!!!
 

timdaleiden

Member
Joined
Mar 17, 2004
Messages
616
Location
Wausau, WI, USA.
Tom,

That is one futuristic looking pen. I really like it. Of course, I would like it even more if I had done it, but that is my problem to deal with. Great work, once again.
 

Tom McMillan

Member
Joined
Jan 1, 2004
Messages
1,598
Location
Washougal, WA, USA.
Thanks for the offer of the photo Bruce. Maybe once I get these into production (likely one every 2-3 months) I may take you up on that. Seems the spirals are bouncing shadows off of each other and all over.
 

Tom McMillan

Member
Joined
Jan 1, 2004
Messages
1,598
Location
Washougal, WA, USA.
Oh, Bruce, by the way. On this one I only used Renaissance Wax as a finish for now---but, I'm wondering what you would recommend for a finish on the brass/aluminum combo---without going to powder coating??? Appreciate any advice you might have. Or if others have ideas??
 

DCBluesman

Passed Away Mar 3, 2016
In Memoriam
Joined
Aug 22, 2004
Messages
7,679
Location
WOODBRIDGE, VIRGINIA
Tom--I don't know how to get to the PMG site to view your description. Can you post a link? Also, I've been using Renaissance Wax on a number of metals over the last 5 months with great results. The brass I've used it on (candlesticks) doesn't show even a hint of oxidation.
 

btboone

Member
Joined
Dec 5, 2004
Messages
2,421
Location
Roswell, GA, USA.
Rennaissance wax is probably a good option for those. The other option might be lacquer, like on a trumpet. The problem with brass and aluminum touching is that they have a galvanic reaction like a battery. Eventually they will get eaten out at the intersection unless something is there to keep them from touching. An acid like sweat will accelerate the action. The addition of wax or lacquer might do enough to keep things in check.

For the photographic dome, there are fewer shadows, so it does a great job photographing stuff like that. Just let me know if you want me to try.
 

Tom McMillan

Member
Joined
Jan 1, 2004
Messages
1,598
Location
Washougal, WA, USA.
Lou (and others interested)---To get to my post for a better description of what I did here---Go to our home page (IAP) and under the Freedom Pens Project on the left---click on Yahoo! PenMakers Guild Search and Where it says: Retrieve Message by Number---enter 3116 and it'll bring up the message I'm referring to.
 

Tom McMillan

Member
Joined
Jan 1, 2004
Messages
1,598
Location
Washougal, WA, USA.
Hey Lou---About the Renaissance Wax, there's been some discussion there about how well it will hold up under handling---how much handling have the items you've used it on had?? I'm thinking now, I may redo this pen with lacquer---but, may be awhile.

Also, I apoligize, but I just haven't had funds to get TSW yet---is it just for wood?? Or can it be used on metals? And if so, how would it hold up?? (If you have an idea of that.) I've been out of work for 6 months, and just today have accepted employment to start a week from Monday---so, maybe my life can get back to normal now.
 

DCBluesman

Passed Away Mar 3, 2016
In Memoriam
Joined
Aug 22, 2004
Messages
7,679
Location
WOODBRIDGE, VIRGINIA
Originally posted by Tom McMillan
<br />Hey Lou---About the Renaissance Wax, there's been some discussion there about how well it will hold up under handling---how much handling have the items you've used it on had?? I'm thinking now, I may redo this pen with lacquer---but, may be awhile.

Also, I apoligize, but I just haven't had funds to get TSW yet---is it just for wood?? Or can it be used on metals? And if so, how would it hold up?? (If you have an idea of that.) I've been out of work for 6 months, and just today have accepted employment to start a week from Monday---so, maybe my life can get back to normal now.
Tom--I've not done a definitive study on how durable Renaissance Wax is on pen parts. I've got 24k kits that have been out there with friends and relatives and none has mentioned having a problem with them. I carried the first pen I made for several months. It had Ren Wax on the 24k plating and didn't show wear. Finally, I use it to coat the rails on my lathe and the tables on the bandsaw and drill press. I just checked them and they're slick as can be, three months after applying it...and they get handled roughly. I wish I had a more definitive answer.

TSW is not just for wood. It works pretty darned well on the resins as well. One of the folks here uses it on metals...shell casings I think...and is satisfied. I don't argue with success but am not sure that carnauba on metal will work as well as Ren Wax. That's why I use Ren Wax on my machinery. Oh, and I'll keep making it. You let me know when you want some. [8D]

Congratulations on the new job! That's SUPER news!
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top Bottom