Bottle stopper question

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I do not. Gives me the opportunity to re finish the turning if needed. If the hole gets stripped, I simply insert a toothpick and the threading is tight again.

Same here, I don't for the simple reason that I want my client to be able to wash without worry of damaging the wood or Acrylic if they put in a Dish washer.
 
I glue them in with 5 min epoxy. Also I drill a short hole in the bottom end for the bottom of the stopper to set in. It looks very nice this way. Not sure where I saw that, probably on this site.
 
I use both metal stoppers and the silicone sleeve/dowel design. With the silicone/dowel design, I always glue things together, usually using a small amount of polyurethane glue. And if the sleeve is detachable (with some stoppers it easily slips off the dowel, but not so much with others), I will put a bit of silicone glue around the top of the dowel to glue the sleeve in place and also provide seal to prevent wine from working its way in and staining the dowel.

But with metal stoppers, i prefer to not glue them in. But whether I do depends on the wood used to make the turning, and how well I am able to cut the threads in that wood. If the threads are clean and solid, I let them do all the work without glue. That gives me the option to remove the turning, refinish it, or even modify the profile to something different at a later date. But if the wood is punky, or if the threads are inferior, I will use glue (usually CA) to secure the top on the stopper.
 
If it is a metal stopper w/ a threaded shaft (only ones I have used to date) I do not glue it. Also when I thread the blank I soak the inside w/ CA and thread it again to re-enforce the threads.
 
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