bottle stopper help

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sgimbel

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Joined
Dec 23, 2008
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Location
Round Rock, Texas
Looking for mandrel/tap to try bottle stoppers. Can you tell me what your using? I have a drill chuck or a 4 jaw PSI check I could mount it in.
 
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I have a PSI mandrel that screws onto the spindle of my lathe, and I also have a couple of homemade mandrels made by drilling and tapping a block of wood to screw onto the spindle, and mounting a 3/6"x16tpi bolt into the end.

In addition to the mandrels that screw onto the spindle, the other options are mandrels with Morse tapers, and mandrels that mount in a Jacobs chuck. You can make the latter by simply sawing the head off a 3/8" bolt.

A feature of commercial mandrels is that they include a sizing ring. That's nice, but not essential.
 
Scott,
Take a look at this site http://www.torne-lignum.com
Ruth has an exceptional patented design that is made in the U.S. out of stainless steel and is reasonably priced.
You can buy a mandrel/tap from her and she has a "starter" kit that has very thing you need but the lathe & the wood.
Owner is a very nice lady & she has a nice section on her site about turning stoppers.

hope this helps

Dale
 
Scott,
Take a look at this site http://www.torne-lignum.com
Ruth has an exceptional patented design that is made in the U.S. out of stainless steel and is reasonably priced.
You can buy a mandrel/tap from her and she has a "starter" kit that has very thing you need but the lathe & the wood.
Owner is a very nice lady & she has a nice section on her site about turning stoppers.

hope this helps

Dale

I will second what Dale says about the Ruth Niles stoppers and mandrel. Great low profile stainless stoppers that really shows off your work.

Wade
 
Really depends on what type of bottle stoppers you're going to turn. Cork, silicone are normally done with dowels. Metal bottoms you can find chucks at the major suppliers, niles, or maybe even some of the vendors here.
 
I used a bolt and a nut on the threads, the head and the excess threads beyond the nut cut off, held with a 4 jaw woodchuck without any jaws attached. Worked for the few bottle stoppers I tried.

Pete
 
I just use a PSI mandrel and drill my hole at 5/16 then use a 3/8x16 tap and it holds on there well. Even when doing a dowel with silicone sleeve stopper I use the same thing. One turned I tap the hole larger so the dowel will fit. The taps I got from HF. So all together I maybe spent $20 or less to get started.
 
I just use a PSI mandrel and drill my hole at 5/16 then use a 3/8x16 tap and it holds on there well. Even when doing a dowel with silicone sleeve stopper I use the same thing. One turned I tap the hole larger so the dowel will fit. The taps I got from HF. So all together I maybe spent $20 or less to get started.

Another that uses the PSI mandrel... I think it came with a drill bit or they sold it as an accessory, don't remember, but I drill all B/S and screw onto the mandrel.... only thing I do different, on the dowels, after the stopper top is finished, I take the dowels to my 1" sander and spin the insert against the belt a few times... then when it will just slip into the hole, I put a couple of drops of CA and glue it in... quick, simple and easy to do.
 
Just my 2 cents worth. I use the mandrel from arizona silhouette that calls for a 14x20 threaded rod or long bolt thru the spindle that holds the stopper in place without the need for the TS center.
25.00, i think.
I've used the other methods and find this one, for me, to be the easiest. But, then again, I voted for Goldwater.
 
I just use a PSI mandrel and drill my hole at 5/16 then use a 3/8x16 tap and it holds on there well. Even when doing a dowel with silicone sleeve stopper I use the same thing. One turned I tap the hole larger so the dowel will fit. The taps I got from HF. So all together I maybe spent $20 or less to get started.

Same here. Only difference is, once turned, if I'm going to use a silicone stopper I drill out the threads so the dowel will fit.
 
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