Boiled or Raw?

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skiprat

skiprat

Passed Away Mar 22, 2022
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Hi all,

As a new guy to this site and relatively new to pen making, can some one please tell me the differance between Raw Linseed Oil and Boiled.

The reason I ask is that I could not find Boiled anywhere, so bought Raw. This was of course to do the BLO/CA trick. The results look good to me, would Boiled be even better? Am I poisoning myself or anything?

Thanks
Skiprat
 
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I believe that cure time is the only real difference. Raw will take a long, long time to cure (would not matter for CA/BLO). They might just not state in on the package across the pond. I do not think I have ever seen raw linseed oil, I would be suprised if yours had not been processed to decrease dry time.
 
I've never used raw but I think boiled will be much better.

Boiled linseed oil on not really boiled. You don't buy (unboiled) linseed oil and then boil it. Boiled linseed oil has chemical additives which make it dry and cure much quicker. "Raw" linseed oil takes quite a long time go dry and completely cure.

Raw Linseed Oil is 100% pure, non-edible and slow-drying. Raw Linseed Oil helps wood retain its natural moisture content which retards cracking, checking, shrinking, and aids water repellency.

Boiled Linseed Oil contains driers to speed film drying and hardness. Linseed oil without this additive can take over a week to dry. Enhances brushing and leveling when added to oil based paints. Linseed Oil is a yellowish oil extracted from the seeds of flax and used as a drying oil in paints and varnishes and in linoleum, printing inks, and synthetic resin. Read more at:http://tinyurl.com/y6pfj6

Do a good turn daily!
Don



Originally posted by skiprat
<br />Hi all,

As a new guy to this site and relatively new to pen making, can some one please tell me the differance between Raw Linseed Oil and Boiled.

The reason I ask is that I could not find Boiled anywhere, so bought Raw. This was of course to do the BLO/CA trick. The results look good to me, would Boiled be even better? Am I poisoning myself or anything?

Thanks
Skiprat
Click to expand...
 
First off, you are not going to kill yourself with raw linseed oil! Linseed oil is derived from flax seeds. If you apply linseed oil on the raw wood, plan on at least a week before you start your finishing process. It you apply the CA first, you should not have any problems. Just be sure to wipe off the blank well between coats.
 
Artists paint with raw linseed oil.

Woodworkers use boiled linseed oil.

The difference is in the dryers that are added to BLO. For a CA/BLO finish you "might be able" to get away with using raw LO

Go to a Loews or Home Depot and you should find BLO there.


<u>Edit in</u>
Just noticed that you are in the UK. Most likely there are some big box stores or some woodworking stores on your side of the pond that carry BLO.
 
As above, but there are polymerized linseed oils available in the US that do not have chemical dryers (generally with heavy metals) added. One of these is called "true oil" and is available at woodcraft and other stores. Linspeed and TruOil are similar products sold for gun stock finishing and are generally found at sporting goods stores.

Boiled Linseed oil can be a dangerous product because oiled rags or paper towels can develop heat and cause fires (spontanious combustion (SP?)) Be careful with it's use.

I use the "true oil" product and a quart will last years if repackaged into sealed bottles. Food safe, not a flamable hazard (you can take it in checked luggage on an airplane), will not turn wood dark over time and will not contaminate other finishes.
 
Thanks to all for informative and useful replies. I'm glad the stuff is not gonna kill me too!

I know that the linseed oil usually is allowed to soak and dry into the wood for an oiled and protected finish. I assumed from info from this site that, with regards to pen turning and CA finishing that the oil acted <u>purely</u> as an accelerant for the CA. Is this true? I don't allow any soaking or drying time from the moment I apply the oil and then reach for the CA.

Could this also be the cause of another problem I have?. Two bottles of CA have destructed themselves. The caps have welded themselves seriously shut!! As the CA bottle actually touches the oil during application, could it cure the glue, making it impossible to get the top off again. I took a pair of pliers to 20g bottle and the whole top just sheared off!! I have left it open since then and it seems ok still.

Anyone else had this? Looking forward to replies.
 
As above, but there are polymerized linseed oils available in the US that do not have chemical dryers (generally with heavy metals) added. One of these is called "true oil" and is available at woodcraft and other stores. Linspeed and TruOil are similar products sold for gun stock finishing and are generally found at sporting goods stores.

Boiled Linseed oil can be a dangerous product because oiled rags or paper towels can develop heat and cause fires (spontanious combustion (SP?)) Be careful with it's use.

I use the "true oil" product and a quart will last years if repackaged into sealed bottles. Food safe, not a flamable hazard (you can take it in checked luggage on an airplane), will not turn wood dark over time and will not contaminate other finishes.
 
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