Blank size cut size for different kits ?'s

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bedangerous

bedangerous

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Nov 21, 2013
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Location
Fayetteville, NY
So, I have several nice burl wood pieces and want to cut them into blanks with my bandsaw. My question is what sizes should be cut for different kits. I cut a burl piece into 3/4" X 5 1/4" inch pieces and there is a lot of waste for slimline pens and even a Junior Gent and a Perfect pen kit look like I could have gone smaller.

I want to get as many blanks from the slabs with the least waste.
Thanks,
Mitch
 
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Why pre-cut it? Leave it as one board and cut off the sizes you need. With my luck, I would cut them to be all slims and found I needed something larger.

Also, cutting to maximize quantity does not always equate to the best cut for grain. You may have one spot that can give you the best blank, but it results in you sacrificing 4 blanks to get that one..
 
Rick's point about the right cut for the best looking blank at the expense of material is spot on.
I answered the direct question without regard for all considerations.
The blank makes the pen!
 
You could use plexiglass cut to the size of your blanks laid on you board to get the orientation of the best blanks. Trace the outside of the pattern and then layout the other blanks around it.
 
Remember, after you have sliced all the prettiest parts out of that burl, you can cut the leftovers for ´waste wood´ or mutt blanks.

If the wood is super stable, 1/2x1/2x 4.5 or so for slimlines.
 
The important factor is how dry it is. I cut most of my burls green, so I leave them at 3/4. After drying and some twisting, they get cut down and squared up. If it is completely dry, then I'll cut to 5/8. I have 6" long lines on my bandsaw sled at both numbers to make squaring and cutting quicker.
 
I like Rick's suggestion to cut it when you need it. A year from now you might want to make a closed ended Senior gent with custom finial, and custom centerband ring. That might take a 7/8" blank that's 5 1/2" long. I have several blocks that haven't been cut yet. It also makes it easier to store.
 
For special wood, I cut just slightly larger than the bushings. I think .65 is what I use on Jr2s. If you always get centered holes with your drilling, then why cut oversize? The problem with thin blanks is you have to be careful not to blow out the bottom on drilling/
 
We were once contacted about making PR blanks in .5" diameter, the person was citing they didn't like the amount of waste while turning the 'normal' .75" diameter.

Long story short, we tried it. The individual decided they were too small and didn't want anymore.....go figure?


I did get some corian at a chapter meeting once that seemed far smaller then I thought would work, but was able to get one drilled and on a 'slim'.....credit goes to the lathe drilling!



Scott (average is easier) B
 
Mitch -- the nice thing about cutting for yourself is that you do not need to find that magic size that works well for most all hardware choices. You can be as specific as you wish.

I have noticed that most all the presentation pens tend towards the larger sizes - that is larger as compared to the bushing-to-bushing slim line.

For wood - the green vs dry makes a difference. I have some boxes of blanks that I got green and waxed, and two years later they were smaller, more crooked, and some were twisted.

I also have some burl blocks that were waxed and set in a corner and dried. The damn things cracked anyway. Sometimes that is where the pen blanks come from.

Have also noted that the pens I want to turn change over time -- and I sometimes have to push myself to clear the aging inventory. Doing some Olympia hardware that have set in inventory for a long time.

Think flexibility for the longer time span -- bigger is generally better if you can cut as you need. But sometimes you loose the hidden -- but that is a dice roll anyway.
 
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