Suskmorrison
Member
I am turning a blank and noticed the blank is not totally square with the bushings. Is it possible to add some shavings to fill the tiny gap? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Blank not square on bushings
- Thread starter Suskmorrison
- Start date
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
jttheclockman
Member
What? Where is the gap? Is the blank finished turning? Forget the shavings. Either make an oops band or start all over if you can use it. Photo will help
Suskmorrison
Member
JohnU
Member
Your best bet is to sand the end level. Many use pen mills also. It squares the ends to the tube so you don't have this problem. Don't worry, it's an easy fix.
Suskmorrison
Member
Can you suggest a video?
Mortalis
Member
jttheclockman
Member
Pen mill or sanding jig to even the end. What kit is that for. Sometimes a kit will be forgiving enough if you take too much tube off. How did you square the ends? Is that your normal method and if so you either need to make adjustments or make some changes. Lots of questions to get to that point. But no shavings is going to do you any good. You could always turn off a portion and use an oops band. May have to do both ends to make look nice. But that is no big deal. A skew is your friend. Or you could use a parting tool
Mortalis
Member
We just had conversation about this in this thread on pen blank squaring.
Suskmorrison
Member
Turning for a slim kit. What is a oops band?
jttheclockman
Member
An oops band is an expression we as pen turners refer to mistake fixes. Many times we have blow outs on the ends of blanks as they are being turned. Instead of trying to find the pieces and gluing them back on we make it look like a segmented blank with bands of different colored woods or acrylics that are glued to the blank and take the place of the damaged ends. In the segmented world that I am familiar with most I just add them to make a segmented blank. Now these are not oops bands but are actually part of the design for this segmented blank. But the solid bloodwood red ends could be called oops bands. There are many threads here that people talk about them and shown examples. Maybe do a little search and you can get a better idea. Slimline kits have no play so you are locked into the exact length. I suggest just start over and chalk this up to a learning experience. Good luck.
Flintski22
Member
I'd go with what the others say and trim that gap down with a barrel trimmer. I don't know where the tube for that blank sits but if it's in a little you can shave that edge square and be good from there.
leehljp
Member Liaison
Opps band visual:
That was not an actual oops band, but an oops band is usually or often a contrasting band on the end of a blank that had a problem. By putting a second band on the other end, it can balance out the blank.
Imported Photo from leehljp
Imported Photo from leehljp. Please edit title and description.
www.penturners.org
That was not an actual oops band, but an oops band is usually or often a contrasting band on the end of a blank that had a problem. By putting a second band on the other end, it can balance out the blank.
ed4copies
Local Chapter Manager
If you are using a slimline (7mm) kit, length of the tube is not critical. You could simply sand it square and be careful to test the length as you assemble.
Here is a video on sanding the end flush, on the lathe:
1080Wayne
Member
Minor caveat to Ed`s answer .The length of the top tube is limited by the clip length , and to some degree by aesthetics .The bottom has more leeway , because the top has ample room to allow the transmission to be in a higher than designed position . Again , aesthetics enter into it .
The most important question you have to answer is `What caused my problem ?`. Were the blank ends square with the rest of the blank ? Was it a standard 3/4 x 3/4 blank , or was it a piece you cut from a board ? Rock solid drilling support on a drill press is essential , if that was your drilling method .
In terms of fixing the problem , the absolute simplest is to sand it off by hand , using coarse sandpaper on a flat surface . Minimal cost , no capital investment , minimal setup time . I do it that way when it is a one off problem . Any sanding method is less prone to causing other problems than a barrel trimmer , in my opinion .
The most important question you have to answer is `What caused my problem ?`. Were the blank ends square with the rest of the blank ? Was it a standard 3/4 x 3/4 blank , or was it a piece you cut from a board ? Rock solid drilling support on a drill press is essential , if that was your drilling method .
In terms of fixing the problem , the absolute simplest is to sand it off by hand , using coarse sandpaper on a flat surface . Minimal cost , no capital investment , minimal setup time . I do it that way when it is a one off problem . Any sanding method is less prone to causing other problems than a barrel trimmer , in my opinion .
Last edited: