Better Bandsawing at Your Fingertips !!

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plantman

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:redface: For those of you that are still having trouble with your bandsaw cutting a straight line, or aren't sure how to properly tune the new blade you just installed, here is a sure fire way to do it. Look in the latest issue, May/June #233, of Fine Wood Working for a lesson on how to change a bandsaw blade by Asa Christiana. He shows you how to change the blade and properly tension it to get rid of drifting and bumpy or barrel cuts. How to set your guides and thrust bearings to track your blade for a straight cut. There are alot of photos and a free video online. If you want to see the adjustments being made. Go to FineWoodworking.com/extras. Jim S
 
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Jim
When I first read your title thought it said "better bandsawing your fingertips" :eek::eek:
first thoughts were I try not to band saw my finger tips... success so far. :biggrin:

But after uncrossing my eyes, realized it was a helpful hint on how to.... I'm going to look at the video... I've finally with the help of a close friend gotten my B/S working properly and actually getting some use out of it.... thanks for the post.
 
Keep all those fingertips where they belong. I actually broke a blade this morning and had to put on a new one. I put on a nice big one 1/2" now I will see how that bad boy works!
 
I am having little problem since changing to a wider blade. I did have problems cutting a straight line, then went to a 3/4" blade.
Russ
 
TellicoTurning said:
Jim
When I first read your title thought it said "better bandsawing your fingertips" :eek::eek:
first thoughts were I try not to band saw my finger tips... success so far. :biggrin:

But after uncrossing my eyes, realized it was a helpful hint on how to.... I'm going to look at the video... I've finally with the help of a close friend gotten my B/S working properly and actually getting some use out of it.... thanks for the post.
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Chuck; Are you trying to tell me not everyone trims their fingernails with the bandsaw?? Jim S
 
dansills said:
I was taken back at the maximum of 3 TPI regardless of the material. No wonder I'm having issues
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I have always found that a 3 TPI skip tooth blade works the best. It doesn't heat up as fast, and gets rid of sawdust buildup. I usualy use a 1/4 or 3/8 inch blade in order to do tighter curves. The larger the blade, the better to make a straighter cut when resawing. I have also found that using a pivot point instead of a high fence will keep you on track with no side tension on the blade. Old school method !! Jim S
 
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