Beall collet chuck question

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
Status
Not open for further replies.

angboy

Member
Joined
Jul 29, 2005
Messages
2,105
Location
North Las Vegas, NV
OK, I got the Beall Collet Chuck since everyone was so positive about it. Now I have a question- what do I do with this long flat thingy that looks like one of those things that goes between 2 oxen?

And can anyone explain why when I was trying to unscrew the thing so I could change the length of my mandrel, it started unscrewing and got a short ways and then stopped, almost as if I wasn't screwing the right way and it had just finished or reached the end. But with enough muscle strength (OK, so some fo you wouldn't even have noticed it seeming to stop), I was finally able to finishing unscrewing it and get the mandrel all the way loose. Any ideas?
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad

TBone

Member
Joined
Aug 16, 2006
Messages
1,811
Location
Roanoke Rapids, NC, USA.
If I understand the first part of your question, it's a wrench. One end tightens the collet collar and the other is for tightening the chuck. Not sure what problem is on second question.
Hope this helps
 

alamocdc

Member
Joined
Apr 26, 2005
Messages
7,970
Location
San Antonio, Texas, USA.
Angela, Tommy is right, the flat thing is a wrench... called a spanner. You'll notice the curves are made to fit either the diameter of the chuck body or the cap. The pin fits in the hole for grip. I use a wooden screwdriver handle, or mallet to tap the spanner if I can't loosen the desired section by hand. It doesn't take much. NOTE: I had to slightly "modify" one of the pins to get it to fit my chuck, but my bench grinder made short work of that.

Now to the second question. Once you have tightened the chuck, it compresses the collet into the chuck. This compression causes the collet to "stick" inside the chuck much like a MT fitting "sticks" in the head and tail stocks and needs to be "knocked" out. So when you loosen the cuck cap, it will run freely until it pulls on the "stuck" collet. The resistance releases when the collet is pulled free from the seat. Make sense?
 

TBone

Member
Joined
Aug 16, 2006
Messages
1,811
Location
Roanoke Rapids, NC, USA.
Billy, I thought the ends on the spanner were different. One seemed to fit the collet ring and one the chuck. Do I just need to put on Joe's Mageyes?
 

ctEaglesc

Passed Away Jul 4, 2008
In Memoriam
Joined
Jul 5, 2004
Messages
3,238
Location
Camden, S.C., USA.
It works much eaier and without the chance to damage the threads to assmeble the collet and chuck off the lathe.
Put the collet in the piece that will wind up closest to the tail stock.Hold it point down.Take the piece that threads on to the spindle and thread it onto the other two pieces to allow them to "seat" right. AS you do this you will be tightening up the jaws of the collet.
Thread it on the lathe and then back off the "outer most piece and install what ever you want to hold, then retighten.
clear as mud huh?
 

TBone

Member
Joined
Aug 16, 2006
Messages
1,811
Location
Roanoke Rapids, NC, USA.
Originally posted by alamocdc
<br /> You'll notice the curves are made to fit either the diameter of the chuck body or the cap. The pin fits in the hole for grip.

Billy, your explanation was clear this morning. Amazing how much clearer it was when I re-read it after coffee [:D][:D]

Sorry, eyes must have been closing on me last night
 

ctEaglesc

Passed Away Jul 4, 2008
In Memoriam
Joined
Jul 5, 2004
Messages
3,238
Location
Camden, S.C., USA.
I bought a second spanner from Charles for those times when I have tyo really "torque" it on something.This only happens on extreemly smooth surfaces.
A strap wrench works.
I figured out later a knock out bar was supposed to be used it it was really tight, but for a couple of bucks the second spanner works much easier.
 

Randy_

Member
Joined
Nov 29, 2004
Messages
5,701
Location
Dallas suburb, Texas, USA.
Originally posted by ctEaglesc
<br />.....I figured out later a knock out bar was supposed to be used it it was really tight, but for a couple of bucks the second spanner works much easier.

Agree with the second statement and have reservations about the first.

The knockout bar on my Jet is just a hair loose in the holes of the Beall collet and the holes on my Jet mini spindle(0.4") are four times as deep as the ones on the Beall collet(0.1"). I would be concerned that the knockout bar would not get a good purchase on the Beall and might pop out under heavy pressure and bugger up the holes. I've got a strap wrench in my toolbox so that is the way I will go if needed; but buying a second spanner wrench seems a better option than hoping a knockout bar might work.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top Bottom