Beall Buffing System

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G

GS1000

Member
Joined
Mar 5, 2008
Messages
4
Location
Calgary, Alberta
Hello


I just bought the Beall system from Lee Valley today, and so far so good. My question is what speed do you use for your pens and larger flat surfaces ie. boxes, I will be using it on my VS lathe. The instructions do not mention a speed range.

First post, Great Forum.

Ron in Calgary
 
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I really think the speed is a personal choice thing. Experiment with slower to faster speeds, there is a learning curve and you'll find there's a sweet spot on the wheels. Beware of catches(don't ask me how I know that):D It does take a little time of use before the buffs break-in without throwing threads constantly, have fun!:)
 
I stay in the 1200 to 1300 area it makes it hard to burn the plastic. Higher speeds if you put too much pressure or linger in one place too long can melt/burn the synthetic, especially with the tripoli. 1250 rpm for me and I get great results.
 
Thanks for the replys

(John I found out how you got your catches but I won't tell anybody)[:D] I assume the shedding of the threads will subside with time, (they sure stick to your smock and the wall behind the lathe):D. I was also playing around with a mistake pen and found out how quick the finish will come off a clip and band[:I] so will limit the buffing to the barrels only before assembly of the pen.
A final question, while buffing and touching the lathe at the same time I get a lot of static, is this common[?]

Ron Evans

Calgary, Alberta
 
you need to ground yourself to avoid static shocks. I usually wear sandels in the shop and I just take one off and touch me bare foot to the floor, it works.
 
Yes, those catches can be bad! I had a bad one when I was buffing a box and believe it or not it circled the buff and glanced off the back wall, ceiling, opposite wall and finally to the floor![B)] The box never broke apart, how amazing was that!! The shedding of the threads definitely will subside in time, how much will depend on how much you use it. I use it a lot so didn't take too long about a week. :) Oh yeah, and those static shocks are what keeps me awake:D
 
IF you mount it on an old lathe (like an old Jet mini) you can rest your wrist or forearm on the "headstock" end and get continuous tiny jolts instead of occasional BIG jolts. I prefer the "continutingle" to the "oh****jolt".

Personal preference, I guess!
 
If you have a wire brush available, simply hold it gently against the slowly spinning wheels and let it grab the loose threads. There will be several left after this process but they will quit in time. Clean the brush several times and re-apply to the wheel till you are seeing less threads coming off.

They definitely are a serious nose tickler ...

Use light touches with the bars of wax as a little goes a long ways with good wheels. Heat builds up on the surface of the material being buffed and this heat can - and will - ruin your efforts.

I always place a thick beach towel folded in half a few times over the ways of my lathe and it helps a bit if there is a catch and the wheel throws your work against the metal. Learn to work in the 'sweet spot' of the wheel, hold on to your work with both hands, and don't be too aggressive with the pressure. The wheel is doing far more work than you ever could by hand so why hurry and take a chance on ruining your efforts and having to start all over! ;)

The static will always be there especially if the air is warm and dry.
 
Thanks Fred, I will try the brush and the towel idea as as I have an urn top to polish next and at this stage I do not want to make another one. I am also going to run a ground wire from the lathe to a water pipe that is close by, not that the shock was great but a few times it starlted me enough to reposition my work against the pad.
 
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