Beall Buff taper question

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RAdams

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I just took the spindle off of my beall 2MT taper to see if i can somehow use the taper to make a homemade die holder and i noticed that the taper is threaded on the back end. Anyone know why?
 
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Meaning i could take some allthread or a long bolt and actually bolt this thing to the headstock thru the knockout hole? how spiffy! Wish i knew that before!
 
Before i invested in my PSI collet chuck, i used a drill chuck, but i went the next size up to 3/8th x 16 thread. I got the chuck from the Little machine Shop. That is was what the morse taper was threaded in the inside. Excellent quality chuck. Carl
 
Meaning i could take some allthread or a long bolt and actually bolt this thing to the headstock thru the knockout hole? how spiffy! Wish i knew that before!
But if you have a live centre (who doesn't:party:) in your tail stock, there is no need to use a drawbar. Just push the tail stock up to the 60° indent in the Beall mandrell and Bob's your uncle! Or have I missed something here?
 
I have the single buffing wheel set up. It is a 2MT with a hunk of aluminum on the end. the buff wheels are all on seperate bolts. You just screw the wheel onto the mandrel and Bob really is my Uncle! (How did you know that?:wink:) It only takes a few seconds to change wheels, but there is no place to pull the tailstock up. I have always just tapped it a bit with a dead blow hammer but from time to time it does push out.
 
To join the thread; A drawbar should be used whenever you are not using the tail stock. I sometimes use a drill chuck in the head stock with a drum sander to knock off the edges off square acrylic blanks. When I do this I always use a drawbar. MT taper collets tighten up with a drawbar, so for them, the drawbar is mandatory.

For Ron the drawbar is a good safety suggestion. The buffing wheel and mandrel can come out of the head stock
 
To join the thread; A drawbar should be used whenever you are not using the tail stock.
I sometimes use a drill chuck in the head stock with a drum sander to knock off the edges off square acrylic blanks. When I do this I always use a drawbar.
I got what you are saying now!
MT taper collets tighten up with a drawbar, so for them, the drawbar is mandatory.
No question on that point.

The buffing wheel and mandrel can come out of the head stock
I just looked at my Beall 2 MT. It has no threads for a drawbar, but the other end allows a live centre to be pushed up against it. I guess that's why some of the posts in this thread had me confused.:smile:
 
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