Bandsaw problems!

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maxwell_smart007

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My new bandsaw - BS150LS from Delta - 10" model, doesn't seem to be tracking properly. The knob will move the blade around on the top wheel, but no matter how I move that, the blade stays right on the edge of the bottom wheel, precariously close to falling off. This means that I get wonky cuts, and worse than that, when I tighten the tension up to where I think it should be, it gives a loud 'clang' and jumps off the wheels.

The wheels are a bit unbalanced too, but that's a different matter, I think.

THe blade guards are no where near touching the blade, as I wanted to see if this made a difference...

Any ideas why this is so? I'll upload some pictures so you can see...should I call Delta and talk to them about it, or is it something I can fix myself (on a really new machine)

Andrew


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Start with the basics.. Are your wheels coplaner? (use a ruler agains both wheels to see if they are in line) The crown of the tire will have a lot to do with this, but most newer bandsaws will not leave you with much tire to fine tune. Being a small band saw, it's cheap enough to buy a new bland, give that a shot. Your guides can be adjusted in and out to meet up with diffrent blades, but you really should not be running ont he edge like that. Try a new blade and adjust the tracking with the top adjustment and see if a new blade holds it's track better and let me know. [;)]

Here's some reading for you...
www.highlandwoodworking.com/index.asp?PageAction=Custom&ID=24
www.woodcraft.com/articles.aspx?articleid=223
 
check your guide blocks. If you're true up top but the blocks are shoving the blade around you won't be true down below.

GK
 
Check the blade guides, and the bearing that rests against the back of the blade. This may be obvious but the bottom blade guide has a thumbscrew that adjusts it in and out and there is also a thumbscrew that adjust the bearing that rests against the back of the blade.This is also true at the top blade guide and bearing.
I have this exact saw and it took me awhile to get used too.
Wait until you change blades for instance thicker, wider blades, it's alot of adjusting. Of course I don't do it that often so perhaps I am just inexperienced at it.[:)]
 
Guys, reading his post he said that he can make the top wheel center, but the bottom will not. To me, this sounds like non-coplaner wheels. Until that has been checked, no further assumptions can really be made as to why. THe blade needs to be centered before anything can be done with the guide blocks. Kind of useless to set guide blocks when the lower wheel does not have the blade in the middle.
 
I tried checking it with a metrestick, but the problem is that the plastic frame sticks out past the wheels, so I can't get the stick to touch both wheels...

I'm thinking I need a spacer at the bottom - is this possible on a small bandsaw like this?
 
Andrew, what you want to do is to cut some wood and attach it to the wheel of the bandsaw. Think of something like a pen blank across the top rim on the side of the wheel. This, while being held on with tape, will be enough to space out the wheels to measure them. You just need to make sure they are exactly the same width. I would rip a piece wide enough to clear the housing and then cut to length.

Oh, and a spacer may be possiable, but I can't see how the wheel is held on. If it's bolted onto the motor shaft with a key, it might be possiable. However, if it's new enough and you can show someone that the wheels are not coplaner, I would take it back to them. Don't forget to check the upper wheel, it may be out too far.
 
Lee, I think he could still have a guide bearing problem on the bottom adjustment. His picture of the bottom wheel and the blade makes it look like the blade is closer to center towards the top or middle of the wheel, and running off towards the bottom. SInce he can adjust the top wheel tilt he could be having his blade being pushed out with the bottom backing roller, and with the top guide bearing backed off, he could adjust the top tilt to make the blade run true on top wheel, but off on bottom wheel. If he cuts the wood like you suggested (great idea) and establishes that the wheels are true co-planer, then this is almost for sure his problem. It wouldn't take long to back off the rear bearing behind the blade on the bottom quite a bit, and see if the blade moves back towards center.

Rob
 
Thanks for the ideas - I'll try the wood spacer thing tomorrow.

Rob, the picture's just at a bad angle - it's running on the edge on the whole bottom wheel. Also, I had already backed the thrust bearings and guide bearings off, so they're not touching at all (thrust bearings are a good half inch behind the blade)

So my guess is that the bottom wheel needs to be spaced out a bit more! Somehow!

Andrew
 
Andrew,
Wood magazine (I believe) just published a magazine-215(?) tips and I purchased it this morning because it had some bandsaw alignment tips. I noticed a 2X4 alignment piece to check the alignment of your wheels, for one thing. Anyway I hope that you get it figured out. I would like to throw my Ridgid 14" out the door but I cannot afford a new door.[:D]

Mike
 
Originally posted by maxwell_smart007
<br />Talked to Delta

Model's discontinued, so they can't order me a new one...

Nearest repair place is a two hour drive away - and I don't really trust them....

So, looks like it's a homebrew fix of some sort...hope I can make it work!

It certainly is worth trying a homebrew fix. But, those smaller machines are usually made on the cheap and do not have care or ruggedness built into them that a larger one might have. It is probably time to think seriously about upgrading to a quality bandsaw in the 14" range. Good luck.
 
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