Bandsaw Blues

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
G

greenchicken

Member
Joined
Nov 29, 2011
Messages
100
Location
Ventura, California
I will cut straight to the question ( no pun intended).

I bought a Rikon 18" bandsaw at Woodcraft to help with my more complex pen laminations. I wanted more control and less waste then I get from my table saw.

But I find that the bandsaw leaves a rough edge that then has to be sanded to be suitable for clean gluing. This kind of undermines the goal.

Was my expectation wrong? I even bought a custom 12 TPI fine tooth blade.

Opinions?
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
Everything I've read and and every thing my mentor says is that the table saw is the tool of choice for pen lamination. I've done some segmented kits but all of the glued ends were either cut on the table saw at my mentors house or cut on the band saw and sanded smooth.

I would use my table saw but there is something off about the 7" Craftsman. It likes to cut, chew , and mulch wood and I end up utilizing the belt sander again.
 
Phil, I use my BS with the blade form Highland Woodworking in Atlanta, the Wood Slicer. The finished cut is smooth enough to go straight to glue most of the time. Keep the saw well tuned and do not over push the wood into the blade and I find a nice even smooth cut. As always though, YMMV
Charles
 
I have to agree, with a well tuned saw. I always had problems with the band saw thought it was a low dollar import. It was due to not being tuned correctly. made a world of Difference. Check your web sites e mail I sent you the article on tuning up the band saw, another member on this forum sent me. It was a great help.
Here is a good book on the band saw Here is a great DVD on the band saw they also have other wood working books some at deep discounts. They are under DIY subject matter
:clown:
 
I agree what was said above, get that band saw tuned up and the right guides and blade; and you'll have a smooth glue surface every time.

You might need to upgrade to some better guides I upgraded mine to a set I got from Carter Products, and it improved my saw 300%.

I also use the Woodslicer blade, and it produces a smooth cut and is a thin kerf. One thing to remember let the saw do the cutting and don't force it and you'll get a good smooth cut.
 
I have the little 14" deluxe and have pretty good luck but like everyone is saying..TUNE TUNE TUNE and it takes a while to do if you havent or dont do it often. Read about it and watch videos then read and watch again. I have notes I keep hanging by mine to make sure I do the steps everytime. The more you use it the better. I use timberwolf blades and very happy with those but I have been thinking of trying the woodslicer. Also they have a great tech dept that I have called a few times and they have always been able to help.
 
Charles is right about the Wood Slicer blade being a must for cutting pen blanks on a band saw.

Additionally, it sounds like you might could benefit from Lonnie Bird's "The Bandsaw Book". A well tuned and properly tuned bandsaw is a pen makers best friend. A misaligned bandsaw is .....well.... basically a very dangerous and unsafe obstruction in the shop.
 
Last edited:
Thanks for all the advise. I spent the last hour in my shop tuning my band saw and I can see improvement already... but I have a long way to go.

One thing I am noticing is that the blade it perfectly centered on the top wheel. But on the bottom is if significantly off. I can not find any information on how to adjust the bottom wheel.

Any opinions would be appreciated.

BTW: The bandsaw is less then a month old. The Rikon Deluxe 14".
 
Is it just me? A bandsaw is the LAST tool I'd use for segmenting, unless of course I had a curved cut to make. Make a small sled for your tablesaw, IMHO you'll have much cleaner cuts.

As far as the waste goes, get yourself a thin kerf 7 1/4" skillsaw blade, I have one that's only .063", that's half the width of a standard 10"x1/8" tablesaw blade.
 
Last edited:
Ok, I have to be the one to ask...you bought an 18" Rikon just for pens? Hopefully you work flat stock and do re-sawing as well on that bad boy.

Are you doing mostly straight cuts or curves? How wide of a blade are you using?

I do all of my segmenting cuts on a Rigid 14" with either a 1/4" or 1/8" blade and with only a few exceptions I can usually go right to glue up. Occasionally I'll touch up on the drum or belt sander but it's usually not much.

Just don't push faster than the blade will allow and make sure your guide blocks are in good shape and that your saw is tuned up will with no vibration and the correct tension on the blade.
 
Cool blocks will help some, or adjusting the roller bearing to get some of the 'wavy' out of the cut along with adjusting the 'arm' down as far as it'll go. A really slow feed will also help(let the teeth do the cutting in their own time kind of thing). But nothing will replace the good ole table saw for making really nice straight cuts for lamenting...I know it's more material being wasted by the kerf of the blade, but what can ya do!



Scott
 
ACtually got a call back from a tech at Rikon who gave me instruction on how to align the bottom wheel. Worked exactly as he told me and my cuts are almost perfect! I think all I need now is that woodslicer blade you guys are talking about.
 
I know when i built a cross cut sled for my band saw it helped me to cut very precise cross cuts. Then i built it to cut miters and it really surprised me at how well it did. I use a 1/2" timberwolf blade most of the time. For small stuff that we do, it will work well. If you do flat work and want to cut a 24" wide board with a glue joint then the TS is the tool to go to. Carl
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom