Band Saw vs. Coping Saw

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jimpenna

jimpenna

Member
Joined
Oct 19, 2016
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Location
Montclair, NJ
Hi,
I am relatively new to pen turning and have a question for advice. My garage is my shop and since I have limited space available, I am trying to decide between a 9" band saw or a 16" coping saw. I only have room left for one of these little gems, after the table saw and chop/mitre saw! It seems that I am leaning toward the coping saw since I am looking to produce segmented pen blanks and that a coping saw can be used as a band saw as well as make curved cuts in blanks fairly easily? Any tips or suggestions are welcome!

John:smile:
 
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Hi John,
Can you provide a link or description on the particular coping saw you're thinking of? When I hear coping saw, this comes to mind:
Coping Saw - Lee Valley Tools

A band saw is a versatile tool for many different types of cuts, and excels on curved cuts, but not necessarily needed for segmenting (depending on the type segmenting - e.g., would be needed for curved segmenting). Many folks use their miter saw or table saw to produce segmented work.

What type of segmentation are you considering?
 
Scroll saws are a little more difficult, unless very experienced, to make straight cuts that will make good segments. Some people will think a joint is "good enough" but experienced people will see gaps.

AS to band saws - there have been several discussions on small band saws lately. Most 9 & 10 inch band saws just do not do a good job of tracking and making straight cuts in 3/4 in hardwoods. There is one group of 10 inch BS that has a good reputation with hardwoods and that is the Rikon/Sears/???. Look up a 10 inch Rikon and then look at similarly shaped models from Sears or other.

I have been using BS for nearly 30 years. I lived overseas between '85 and 2010. While home in 2005, I bought a 9 inch Delta to make segments and to cut pen blanks out of 3/4 hardwoods. BIG mistake. Bought new guides, new blades, adjusted, hunted the internet for tips and still that model would not track. Good for balsa wood or 1/4 inch hardwoods only. Tried going super slow. Still didn't help.

BTW, I have a DeWalt scroll saw. IF you do decide to give it (scroll saw) a try, be sure you have the right blades and tension. Patience is rewarded in slow cuts. Use a clamped guide.
 
jimpenna said:
Hi,
I am relatively new to pen turning and have a question for advice. My garage is my shop and since I have limited space available, I am trying to decide between a 9" band saw or a 16" coping saw. I only have room left for one of these little gems, after the table saw and chop/mitre saw! It seems that I am leaning toward the coping saw since I am looking to produce segmented pen blanks and that a coping saw can be used as a band saw as well as make curved cuts in blanks fairly easily? Any tips or suggestions are welcome!

John:smile:
Click to expand...

If space is that tight, you can get an old school miter saw, either a vintage one (if you can find one) or a new one such as this: Nobex Champion Miter Saw | Nobex Miter Saw

Advantages are minimal space, quiet, good ones are VERY accurate, and they don't throw dust as much. Drawbacks are sweat, and no curved cuts. And, of course, ya gotta work at it to cut your fingers off. You CAN cut your fingers, but between the much lower speed of the cutting edge and the pain reflex which tends to both pull your hand away AND disengage the power source, 'tis a fair bit safer than any powertool.
 
I would consider the Rikon/Craftsman 10" as Hank Lee suggested. Sometimes the Rikon version goes on sale bringing it close to what the Sears version sells for but with the additional 5 year warranty. By all accounts Rikon service is excellent.
The smaller 9" saws just don't have the same good reputation.
 
I would go with the scroll saw. You already have the table saw for ripping and the mitre saw for angled cuts. Band saws, in my opinion, are good for rough cutting bowl blanks and making rough cuts on burls, etc., intended to make pen blanks.

The scroll saw will allow you to make a lot of interesting curved cuts, as well as cut out designs in a half-size blank (3/8 by 3/4 by desired length), gluing that to another solid blank the same size, filling the cutout with PR, epoxy, or something, and then turning the blank. Search on "Master Scroller" and you'll find some interesting things to make with the scroll saw.

Good luck!
 
I think I may have found my saw! My neighbor, who is very limited on shop space also, let me use one of his Christmas gifts, a Dremel Moto-Saw.

https://www.dremel.com/en_US/produc...ource=Google&gclid=CMvgsvqH3tECFceLswodIWcHsg

I was surprised I couldn't find anything specific on this tool on the site, but for what I want to do, it works!!! I had a few 3/4" wood and acrylic blanks with me and I was able to easily cut staright cuts as well as wavy and rounded cuts, which I want to be able to do for segmented blanks!! I had no issues splitting blanks in half with a scroll cut or even chopping small blocks off the end of blanks. It seems a fence (he made one for crosscuts) and a miter guage is all that is needed. I think my search is over.

John

P.S. DEFINITELY need to go slow, but the cuts with the fine blade on a higher speed worked.
 
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