Band Saw Motor Questions

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PenMan1

PenMan1

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Eatonton, Georgia
I was able to get one of the Rigid 14 inch bandsaws on sale at HD for $187. I have tuned it up with urathane tires, Woodslicer blade, Olsen Cool Blocks, and Kreig Miter fence. I also balanced the wheels, made a mobile custom cabinet and added a motor mount.

The saw runs great, but could use more power for big resaw jobs. The motor is a 3/4 HP, 5/8 arbor, on a 56 frame and runs at 1800 rpms. I have a chance to buy a 2 NEW 2 HP motor for cheap, cheap. It is a 5/8 arbor, 56 frame and runs at 1750 -1800 rpms.

Will this improve my saw? Since I already have the adjustable 56 motor frame, is this change out a big deal? Bottom line, is it worth the $75 for the new motor?
 
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That would be a concern. The extra torque could easily overpower the parts. You should call Rigid and just flat out ask them. Also, check an exploded view parts list and see if it tells you what the gears are made out of. If there are any plastic parts, the torque more than likely will tear them apart.
PenMan1 said:
Me too, I'm just looking for conformation that the extra 1 1/4 HP of torque (same RPMs) will not overstress the other saw parts.
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Padre said:
That would be a concern. The extra torque could easily overpower the parts. You should call Rigid and just flat out ask them. Also, check an exploded view parts list and see if it tells you what the gears are made out of. If there are any plastic parts, the torque more than likely will tear them apart.
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Most bandsaws i have seen are just a direct shaft connection into the lower wheel.
The most likely failure points would be the motor mount, the wheels, the wheel bearings and bearing mounts, and the saw frame.
The stall torque on the new motor is going to be 2 to 3 times more than the old motor. I would not recommend such a big jump, unless you can find some way to limit the torque on the new motor.
 
I just went fromthe RIdgid to a RIkon for the increased height but I did have a 3hp motor on my Ridgid. It didnt negativly effect the saw as far as i could tell. It has had the 3hp for over 2 years. I am currently offering the saw on craigs list but have removed the motor prior to listing and selling the saw.
 
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I did talk to Ridgid, and as I expected.... the ole product liability line about changing parts and voiding warranties. it is a direct drive from the pulley to the lower wheel.

A family member who works in tooling told me that the Ridgid 14, the Grizzly 14, the Craftsman 14 and all the other Chinese saws were the same saw just different paint and different motors. I DON"T KNOW if that is true or not, but I do know that the aftermarket sellers have the same replacement part numbers for wheels, risers, etc.

The Grizzly 14 resaw riser bolts right up to the Ridgid. Upon inspection, the Grizzly Ulitmate 14 looks identical (other than paint) to the ridgid. It comes with a 1 1/2 HP motor, 5/8 shaft, 1800 RPMS......So, I'm just wondering????

I need a little more power, but I don't want to end up like Tim the Tool Man!
 
You can limit the torque with the tension on the belt between the motor and the lower band saw wheel -- set the belt to slip as torque increases beyond your "comfort factor".

If you jam the blade, the motor should spin -- .
 
KenV said:
You can limit the torque with the tension on the belt between the motor and the lower band saw wheel -- set the belt to slip as torque increases beyond your "comfort factor".

If you jam the blade, the motor should spin -- .
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Great Point! The best part is I can pay for the motor with pen parts! I think I'll do it.
 
May I ask why you think you need to upgrade??? I have a Delta 14" bandsaw and run a 3/4" carbide resaw blade on it with a 3/4 hp motor. I have cut lots and lots and lots of exotics and domestics on it with no problem. The key to any tool is to have it tuned properly and to use sharp blades. When you have to push hard to make a cut you are overworking the tool and it is not the right tool for the job or the blade is dull.

Why not just try the saw with the way it is setup and see what you think and then go from there. One thing I highly recomend is a link belt for any large tool such as that.
 
Don't confuse torque and power (HP). Power is torque times speed. The motor will only produce the amount of torque required to move the blade through the matrial you are cutting. Only if you near the point of stalling the motor is it producing the full rated torque and power.
 
Randy -- The starting capacitor provides a boost to overcome inertia on initial power up, but more especially it assures the direction of rotation stays the same every startup. Once the motor comes to speed, the capacitor is not a factor in the motor operations.

One of the current issues with use of the term Horsepower is that it is used with little relationship beyond advertising hype. I love seeing a 2 amp motor being advertised as 3 horse power.

The amp draw specifications are much less subject to advertising expansion, and 10 amp 120 volt or 5 amp 220 volt is about 1 HP. Look on the motor plate for the AMP draw. This is not a perfect approximation and is still subject to some distortions and different rules in differrent jurisdictions but helps me get to making sure my circuits are handled appropriatly. (I try to run motors on 220 where I can -- 15 amp dust collector draws 7.5 amps at 220 and starts a bit easier -- no significant difference at the power meter though)
 
jttheclockman said:
May I ask why you think you need to upgrade??? I have a Delta 14" bandsaw and run a 3/4" carbide resaw blade on it with a 3/4 hp motor. I have cut lots and lots and lots of exotics and domestics on it with no problem. The key to any tool is to have it tuned properly and to use sharp blades. When you have to push hard to make a cut you are overworking the tool and it is not the right tool for the job or the blade is dull.

Why not just try the saw with the way it is setup and see what you think and then go from there. One thing I highly recomend is a link belt for any large tool such as that.
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It is set up right, including the link belt. On pen projects and luthier work, the saw works fine. On resawing big pieces (1X6) pieces of really hard wood, I end up "pushing" the work. It has a brand new Woodslicer blade, tuned well.

I live in the heart of pecan country and I can get all the free pecan wood that I can haul. If you have ever cut "fresh" pecan, you know that it could take out a woodpecker's lips.

The motor is priced at $75. A Lennox of Laguna blade is twice that.

I also do a good bit of Georgia Fat Wood and the pine pitch really gives this tiny motor fits. I realize that the motor wont "fix" the problem with the pine pitch, but I should be able to get more sawed between blade cleanings.
 
Well I guess you answered your own questions. Go for it. Cutting 1X6 wood that hard, wow. I cut 10" and 12" bloodwood and many other spiecies of woods with no problem. Again though I am using a carbide blade. Good luck with the change over. By the way there will be no problem with the change as far as compatability. HP motor ratings is a subjective form of rating a motor's capacity. Now if you tell me it is a Baldor motor than you have yourself a deal. Good luck and happy sawing.
 
JT:
Thanks for all the tips and advice! I am saving up for a Lenox or LaGuna Carbide resaw blade. That alone would likely get me closer to what your Delta can do. I can trade my neighbor out of the motor for pens.

Thanks again for all the solid advice and reassurance that the change over will work. I can't see it making anything WORSE:) .... But I know those could be "famous last words..."
 
You might try a Morse blade. Mine cuts true as can be on any resaw I have done.
Also consider the tooth count. A 4 TPI blade will work OK with 6" but if you go wider than that you need a 3 TPI. Consider the number of teeth in the wood at any one time. FAR more important the the power of the motor.

I read the post where a fellow was using a 3/4" blade. His choice. I find that 1/2" blade works better and takes less effort. You can make you own choice.

Going to your original question I have a friend who put a 2 HP motor on his 14" Jet. Never had a problem with it. He had to make major modifications to the band saw base.

Lee
 
jttheclockman said:
Well I guess you answered your own questions. Go for it. Cutting 1X6 wood that hard, wow. I cut 10" and 12" bloodwood and many other spiecies of woods with no problem. Again though I am using a carbide blade. Good luck with the change over. By the way there will be no problem with the change as far as compatability. HP motor ratings is a subjective form of rating a motor's capacity. Now if you tell me it is a Baldor motor than you have yourself a deal. Good luck and happy sawing.
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Wow-----that must be one heck of a saw----12" Bloodwood.
maybe I need to upgrade to a Delta.
 
Gary Max said:
Wow-----that must be one heck of a saw----12" Bloodwood.
maybe I need to upgrade to a Delta.
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Not really just an off the shelf model I bought back some 25 years ago. Have been doing this for that many years. Back then Delta was the standard for power tools.

Copyofshop8.jpg
 
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Like said above. the tooth count is more important the the power of the motor. What is the tooth count on the blade you are currently using? If it is a high TPI blade, you will have to go MUCH slower when cutting the wider material even if you have a 10 hp motor! It all has to do with how much sawdust can be held by the gullet of the blade and removed from the cut. More teeth per inch equals smaller gullets that are closer together and slower cuts in wide material but a smoother finish.

I have a sawmill and it uses 7/8" pitch blades. That means there is one tooth per 7/8". I have sawn 2,000 bf of Pecan with many of the logs right at 30" in diameter! My mill has a 15 HP gasoline motor and it cuts through it quite well.
 
With a larger motor resaw capacity will increase. Torque will not affect it. I have a 1 1/2 on an old sears saw. My delta has a 1 1/2. Get the 2 and enjoy the extra capacity.
 
arkie said:
JT - A pair of RBVIs?
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I own a RBI 220vs, RBI 226vs, Hegner multimax18, and a Dewalt 788vs. My everyday go to saw is the RBI 220vs. A workhorse for me. I used to have some larger photos of my shop on my old computer and I guess they never made it over onto this one.
 
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MesquiteMan said:
Like said above. the tooth count is more important the the power of the motor. What is the tooth count on the blade you are currently using? If it is a high TPI blade, you will have to go MUCH slower when cutting the wider material even if you have a 10 hp motor! It all has to do with how much sawdust can be held by the gullet of the blade and removed from the cut. More teeth per inch equals smaller gullets that are closer together and slower cuts in wide material but a smoother finish.

I have a sawmill and it uses 7/8" pitch blades. That means there is one tooth per 7/8". I have sawn 2,000 bf of Pecan with many of the logs right at 30" in diameter! My mill has a 15 HP gasoline motor and it cuts through it quite well.
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The blade is a 1/2 inch WoodSlicer from Highland Woodworking in Atlanta. They have these blades espically made (so I don't really know who makes them-but the package said made in USA). It says it is a 3-4 tpi variable pitch toothing arrangement.
http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/woodslicer12resawbandsawbladescustomlengtha60to121.aspx
 
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