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Tex---I use a collet chuck in the early stages, but I'm leery of going back to it once the cap or barrel has been removed, because it never seems to orient exactly the same way, causing a bit ov wobble when turning. Is there a trick to getting repeatability? I try to line it up using the live center in the tailstock, but without a prehensile tail or third arm, it can be tricky.
Dan
Hi Dan,
I wouldn't call it a trick but here is basically what I do when making a pen out of acrylic for example.
1. If not already a cylinder I turn the blank into one so I can chuck it into my collet chuck.
2. I drill out the blank using several bit sizes so the converter/refill will fit.
3. I tap the inner threads for the nib assy and the outer threads for the cap
4. I shape the lower body all the way down to within 1/2" or so of the lower end.
5. I then remove the pen from the collet chuck and insert a closed end mandrel modified to fit snugly into the diameter I drilled the blank in step one. It's then a quick process of shaping the last 1/2" of the body and the pen is sanded and polished. When using the closed end mandrel I do align it with the tailstock when I start turning down the end section.
This whole process only requires one change out of the collet chuck. I basically follow the same steps for the cap.
There are probably better, more efficient ways but this works for me. When I start cutting my own threads on the metal lathe, things may change up a bit.
I hope this makes sense and hope it helps or at least gives you some ideas.