Anything better than PlastX?

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qquake

qquake

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I have been using Meguiar's PlastX for several years now as a final polish for acrylics. Very happy with the results. But I'm always up to try something new and better. Is there anything better than PlastX?
 
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I use PlastX as my final "act" on all "acrylic" pens. . It seems pretty good to me, but like you, I'm always looking for improvements.

So, I'll put a "Watch" on this thread and tag along !!
 
Your friend would be using a powered buffer for the final shine using those foam pads, I assume.

I apply the PlastX by hand and also do the buffing by hand with a soft cotton cloth .... could be an inferior method compared to his.
 
I do mine with it spinning on the lathe. I've always used paper towel. He said that might be why I get tiny scratches sometimes. He's going to let me try a couple of his pads. I'll report back.
 
qquake said:
I tried that once. It just made a sticky mess.
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I cannot explain your sticky mess, but I can guess that you maybe waited too long to buff it off. You only have about 8 seconds. So, wipe it on, and buff it off. No sticky mes on ANY of my pens, or those who recommended to me.
 
qquake said:
I do mine with it spinning on the lathe. I've always used paper towel. He said that might be why I get tiny scratches sometimes. He's going to let me try a couple of his pads. I'll report back.
Click to expand...

Years ago, my optometrist told me to stop using paper products of any kind to clean (very finely, very scratched) acrylic lenses of my glasses. $0.02.
 
qquake said:
I do mine with it spinning on the lathe. I've always used paper towel. He said that might be why I get tiny scratches sometimes. He's going to let me try a couple of his pads. I'll report back.
Click to expand...
Paper towels normally contain cellulose and can be very abrasive. That's the reason for those micro scratches.

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Since this post, I have come up with a polishing regimen that is working really well for me. 220-320-400 grit sandpaper wet; all six grades of 3M Tri-M-Ite polishing paper wet; then Meguiar's 105 and 205 (thank you Tony!).
 

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If you are using 220 grit paper you need to work on tool control and use especially any acrylic. You are just adding scratches wet or dry. Even 320 is too course. 600 grit should be lowest starting paper if need be. Wax and polishes are not cure all they hide the scratches. Look at the commercials on TV about scratch covers.
 
@qquake
There is nothing wrong with sanding. . It is a necessary part of shaping most pen blanks.

BUT ... sanding in a circumferential way (some people erroneously call it "radial") can unduly leave ugly scratches ... hard to remove.

I do ALL my sanding in a longitudinal way ... LATHE POWER OFF, turning the head stock chuck by hand ... yes, it takes time ... yes it is better.

Polishing .... same thing .... LATHE POWER OFF .... longitudinal rubbing by HAND .... only my skin applies the final 3 stages of polish, last of which is always PlastX. . NO scratches survive !!

Total time for the sanding and polishing (320 grit up to 2000 grit, normal sandpaper; 3 liquid polishing stages) is about 12 - 15 minutes. . I admit that some of the finer sandpapers MAY be unnecessary, but a quality final surface is of paramount importance.

The liquid poishes that I use are always Novus 3, Novus 2, PlastX ... in that order ... for both CA-coated blanks and for acrylic acetate blanks.
Sometimes I precede the Novus 3 with a (quite coarse) Mequiar's liquid abrasive used for heavy scratch removal on fibreglass. . I sometimes do this instead of using the sandpapers above 1000 grit. . I don't see any difference between my two methods.
 
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