Any small engine experts out there???

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Timbo

Timbo

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Joined
Jan 4, 2008
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1,188
Location
Kill Devil Hills, NC USA.
I'm looking to get a Craftsman snow blower that I picked up on the cheap a few years ago, back into running shape. I got it cheap because it had been sitting for several years and would not start. I figured the carb was all messed up from sitting idle so long. I think I'm correct because I can pour a little gas in the spark plug hold, replace the plug, and it starts up on the first pull, then dies of course as the gas is burned up.

I did consider dissasembling the carb and attempting to clean it, but I think that might be beyond my capabilities. The internals are probably corroded beyond repair anyway.

I figured I could just replace the entire carb, unfortunately, Sears Parts no longer sells the part that fits the blower that I have. Was wondering if anyone knew of a source for replacement carbs for snowblowers, or if anyone had any other recommendations. Thanks.

PS: I have to get this working before next winter...my wife gives me the "you wasted more money" evil-eye look everytime it snows :eek::eek::eek:.
 
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Tim:
A little more information, please. Who makes the engine? Most Craftsman products use either Briggs & Stratton, Kohler, or Tecumseh engines. If it has one of those three engines, there is about a 99% chance that you can buy a reconditioned carb on E-Bay.

Additionally, check the gas lines going from the tank to the carb. They are known for clogging or rotting away.

Something else that is worth a try. Get 1/2 ounce of Wright's Liquid Silver Polish. Pour it directly into the carb. let it set for 10 minutes, then add some gasoline directly into the spark plug hole and start the engine. Sometimes, the silver polish will clean the krud right out of the carb. Caution: This is a ONE TIME try!!! Since the silver cleaner actually goes into the engine, too much polish could damage the piston rings or head.
 
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Also, check and make sure that the fuel line doesn't have a shutoff valve that is actually closed! :eek:

Clean out all the old gas from the tank......empty the bowl of the carb. You should also be able to get a rebuild kit/needle & seat and possible float from the engine manufacturer.....should not be too hard to do, just take a little time.

Also, have you checked the spark plug? How good is the spark.....may have to work on the magneto.....if it has been sitting outside for some time clean up the flywheel (where the magnets are at), clean off the rust and make sure the magneto is not fouled.

BTW, how's the air filter.....could be totally unusable.

Try starting with air filter off and try some starting fluid down the breather w/o the filter......may take it a few shots to keep'er going.

Good luck and keep us posted!


Barney
 
Most small engine shops will have or know how to decifer the sears part numbers. They used to be the Tecumseh numbers with a couple in the front. In any case bring with you all of the numbers from the engine. Those shops can help you.
One thing that always happened with the craftsman engines, is the head would warp. The easy fix was to lap it either with lapping compound or on a 100 grit emory sheet on a flat surface. I used to use a Brown and Sharpe surface plate made of granite. In a pinch, use a flat spot on a concrete floor.
Put on a NEW head gasket and tighten the bolts evenly. Maybe 90 inch lbs. but check with a repair shop to be sure.
 
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Don't just throw money at it. Do a thorough examination..check the obvious first, like shut off valves and clogged hose and junk in gas tank and then turn to cleaning parts before you replace anything. The simple fact you can get it to fire tells you the ignition system is in working order, and therefore you are having either a fuel or air flow problem. Clean air filter. Run some carb cleaner through it...start simple.

Don't worry about parts either. As was already mentioned, it's a sears blower, but not a sears engine.
 
I don't think you need to replace the carb. Worst case if there was not water in the carb the old gas might have turned into a gel. Do not be intimidated by the carb. Take off the bowl and then there is a little steel pin that holds the float and needle in place. Remove the pin which will allow you to take out the float and needle. Make sure the needle is in good shape and then use some varsol to clean up the parts and interior of the carb and blow it out with some compressed air. Put it back together and give it a go. If you are getting it to fire by putting some gas in the spark plug hole then maybe try it a few more times. That might be enough to get it to keep going.
If you do need parts, get the type of motor and size and see your local dealer. Chances are it is a Tecumseh motor as they use them mainly on snowblowers because they do not perform well in heat and will blow up easier on lawnmowers compared to snowblowers. Make sure you change the oil as well and give it a new spark plug.
 
After you remove the carb bowl and float mechanism, take a very fine wire like from a pen spring and make sure it goes up the passage the needle goes up against. Usually a film of varnish forms due to the gas drying. This keeps the gas from entering the carb.
 
I had a craftsmen that my Dad left me. Never touched (8 years) it until I bought a plow for the truck. Then I decided to sell it. It of course would not start. I had a guy come out and look at it. He cleaned the carb out (varnished pretty good) freed up the float and it started the first pull. He adjusted the idle and some other stuff I don't know what it was. Linkage on the drive and a needle in the carb (because he dropped the original one and we couldn't find it).
Good Luck. It might not be too bad.
 
Great feedback! Thanks guys...just what I was looking for. I'm encouraged that I now will be able to fix this thing. If you would be so kind, please subscribe to this post as I will follow-up on your suggestions and post results. My first results post follows:

Andy suggested I provide more info:
Craftman 5 HP, 22" Dual Stage Snow Thrower
Model # 536.886121
Engine #143.965003
carburetor 632107A (This is a Tecumseh number)

I had already checked the fuel line which was in good shape and not blocked. There is no shut-off valve. There was no fuel in the tank when I bought it. I added fresh gas for my testing. The air filter was clean. Spark plug and ignition are working as evidence that the engine will run when gas is added directly to the cylinder.

I did a little more searching and found that my carburetor part#632107A was replaced by #640084B. The eBay tip was good...I found aftermarket carburetors under both part numbers for under $30.00 with free shipping. That's less than I thought it would be.

I also saw OEM carbs for twice that. Anyone have opinions on the aftermarket vs. the OEM carb?

My next step will be to try carb cleaner as suggested. If that does not work, I'm leaning towards buying a carb off eBay, unless someone has another suggestion.

Thanks for helping me out with this.

Tim
 
Like the other members have said,the problem is in the fuel system since it does start when you manually prime it.Clean out the fuel tank,change the line,make sure the filter on the bottom is cleaned.The carb will most likely need cleaning,and the needle's seat gets swelled with stale gas.That makes its' sealing hole smaller,which makes the float level off.Installing a new needle/seat will correct that.( on that carb,there is a special angle that it is set to...It's not level across like most brands ) Use a tiny guitar string if you have it to clean the teeny tiny hole in the bottom bolt that holds the float bowl on.That's the main jet,and on the older ones that have a knurled adjuster screw on the bottom of the bowl,that's the adjustable main jet.That one to has a teeny tiny pilot passage that needs to be checked.


I hope some of this makes sense/helps. I repair small engines for a living,although I have not seen snow for decades!

Take care,
Steve
 
After reading posts 7, 8, 9 and 11, I'm altering my plan slightly to try carb cleaner first, if that does not work, then try cleaning the needle, needle passage, and float. I'll replace the entire carb if that does not work, or if the internals of the carb look very damaged.

Thanks again all. I knew this would be the right place to ask for help with this.

Tim
 
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In my area, a carb rebuild kit runs around $5.00. The old man down the road will provide the kit and do the work for $20.00. I've also had good luck adding Seafoam to the gas tank. But, use the amount of Seafoam that it says. I added a little too much the first time. The exhaust glowed red and the tip of the spark plug burned off. It also made funny noises for awhile.
 
Update: 5/15/2011

Finally got some time to get out to the shed and pull the carb. Took some photos just in case I needed help reinstalling it.

I removed the main screw on the bottom holding the bowl in place, then removed the bowl....YUCK! There was a good amount of dark brown, or black, hard stuff (is that what's know as varnish?) clinging to the float and other parts. I guess the next step is to soak the whole thing in carb cleaner or Varsol (unless there's a better recommendation), then wipe it down, then make sure all the small passageways and jets are clear. Comments? Thanks.

Tim
 
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The best way to properly clean a carb is with a heated ultrasonic cleaning tank.Those use a mild soap & water soultion,heat to 140 degrees,and the soundwaves knock off the particles after the heated soap loosens them up.The jets and carb come out squeeky clean,and with no damage to the plastic,rubber or aluminum parts.

It's just amazing how well it works,and how hight the success rate is.

Check out the "Omegasonics" website,I think they have a demo on there that illustrates how well,and safely it cleans.

If you are doing your own rebuild,it may pay to check out a good motorcycle or small engine shop to ask what they charge to run your disassembled carb through.since it's most likely they have a tank.

Steve
 
jaywood1207 said:
I don't think you need to replace the carb. Worst case if there was not water in the carb the old gas might have turned into a gel. Do not be intimidated by the carb. Take off the bowl and then there is a little steel pin that holds the float and needle in place. Remove the pin which will allow you to take out the float and needle. Make sure the needle is in good shape and then use some varsol to clean up the parts and interior of the carb and blow it out with some compressed air. Put it back together and give it a go. If you are getting it to fire by putting some gas in the spark plug hole then maybe try it a few more times. That might be enough to get it to keep going.
If you do need parts, get the type of motor and size and see your local dealer. Chances are it is a Tecumseh motor as they use them mainly on snowblowers because they do not perform well in heat and will blow up easier on lawnmowers compared to snowblowers. Make sure you change the oil as well and give it a new spark plug.
Click to expand...
i JUST HAD TO REPLACE A COMPLET CARB

1st time is man years seem our fuel is now more corrosion than ever even if stable. and if you own a motor cycle get ready we hare seeing the carbs just eatin up in 2 months time from the Ethenoal
 
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