Another Sharpener thread

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WriteON

WriteON

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My favorite tool is the 1/2 oval skew. Fast forward. Let's say my birthday is coming up and Mrs. WriteOn asks what I want. :biggrin::biggrin::biggrin::biggrin: I tell her a really nice chisel sharpener.
If price is not an issue what would you get... suggestions please. Thanks, Frank
 
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I would get, what I have: D Ways 8 inch CBN wheels. I went nuts learning how to sharpen an oval skew, but now I just sharpen it free- hand and don't care about repeatable angles and wasting the HSS. My way is unorthodox and I am not recommending it - this is just what is right for me. For giggles, I would buy the Sorbey system. I say for giggles, because i don't need it, but I like tools.

To be honest, I have gotten very good (IMO) with using Dway CBN stone, I seldom bring my by chisels to the wheels any more.

I have the Robo Hippy and the One way system.

both systems wound-up costing the same (wheels, grinder versus Sorbey system): about 550 to 600
 
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You ask a difficult question and probably get many answers. I will give you mine. The very first sentence you mention oval skew. That probably is the one turning tool that is the most difficult to sharpen because of its shape. For this I recommend the Trend diamond card and keep it honed. You will not be changing shape on this tool so no need to go to hard stones wheels.

But with that said of all the tools I have bought over the years to sharpen things I have found recently and will always use from now on is the Robo Rest

www.robohippy.net/store/robo-rest-ow-oneway-compatible

Its flat large platform supports all tools. Its many varied angles can sneak up on the correct angle for any tool. I am a fan of this device and worth every dollar. If you have the oneway system or if you just use a platform and no holder there is a robo rest that fits your needs.

Those are my 2 suggestions and you can not go wrong. That rest can also sharpen the oval skew with a bit of finesse. But if you keep it honed it will last a long time.

CBN wheels are nice but not needed. The tried and true friable wheels have been around a long time and work well. You need a good grinder motor to use those things properly so be aware if you get into those.
 
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If you are thinking of a grinder, I would recommend a slow speed(1725rpm) , 1 horsepower. The 1/2 hp grinders are a bit light on startup especially when adding CBN wheels.
I have the OneWay Wolverine set up and it works very well.
I also hone my chisels with a diamond hone. Alan Lacer has a nice hone with radius edges which will fit in the flute of bowl and spindle gouges.

Like John, i sharpen occasionally and hone frequently.
The oval skew has been no problem to touch up on the grinder using a standard platform.
 
There are two basic sharpening systems: disks and belts. I don't have experience with belts but from what I read, they can be great.

There is one issue that requires close scrutiny on disk wheels: heat.

Tormek and Tormek like wheels are cooled in water and these are generally considered the best in sharpening because they keep the tools cool as they sharpen. (They still need to be honed.) However the downside of Tormek is the slow shaping. If the tool is new and needs to be shaped, or if you have several tools that need to be shaped, you will need to be prepared to spend an hour or more per tool to get it shaped. The water cooled/lubricated wheels turn slow enough that they do not sling the water off, so the speed is slow.

Regular grinding wheels at 3450 rpm can heat the tools edges to the point that they destroy its temper. For this reason, people recommend a 1700 rpm. It can do the same but the slower speed allows decent grinding while slowing the heat build up.

CBN wheels only work well on HSS tools. But speed doesn't heat up as much as normal stones. You "CAN" make a CBN wheel get a tool hot, but if you do it is because you are adding too much pressure for too long. CBN wheels cut fast so only light pressure is needed to shape and sharpen.

IMO, all grinding should be followed by honing.

Previous thread on CBN wheels: http://www.penturners.org/forum/f30/cbn-wheel-question-s-147589/

and here:
http://www.penturners.org/forum/f30/cbn-wheels-grinder-155103/
 
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Like John and Charlie I always use a diamond hone on my skews. They haven't seen a wheel in many months.

If you are talking a system for all tools I have both stone wheels and CBN. I have one grinder with the standard stone wheels and another grinder with 180 and 600 grit CBN wheels. I use all of them depending on what I am doing. I also use the Wolverine setup.

Like John, I have a Robo Rest and think it is the best thing I have added to my sharpening setup! For the tools I use a platform on, I mark the tool with the Robo Rest setting and it only takes a few seconds to change and get exact repeatability for each tool. My only regret is I didn't buy it years ago.
 
I think I have a bunch of never used blue wheels that came with my grinder.s If you want them, you can have them. If I didn't give them away already..anyone can have them - just pay shipping. Otherwise, Goodwill. I see many folks use these with great success. I just never tried them.
 
This is what I use to sharpen my tools. Got it from Grizzly probably 10 years ago and I use it for my initial shaping of my turning tools. After that initial shaping my tools see very little grinder time. I use an old stone with semi-rough on one side and fine on the other side to keep the tools sharp. I sharpen the tools between each item I've turned unless it's a very dense wood then I might sharpen the tool several times during the turning process. Works great for me but everyone does things differently. This is just how I handle sharpening my tools.

ITEM# T10010ANV
10" Wet Grinder Kit - Anniversary Edition

I don't have the anniversary edition but one similar to it. Cost is around $160.00 without shipping included.
 
wolf creek knives said:
This is what I use to sharpen my tools. Got it from Grizzly probably 10 years ago and I use it for my initial shaping of my turning tools. After that initial shaping my tools see very little grinder time. I use an old stone with semi-rough on one side and fine on the other side to keep the tools sharp. I sharpen the tools between each item I've turned unless it's a very dense wood then I might sharpen the tool several times during the turning process. Works great for me but everyone does things differently. This is just how I handle sharpening my tools.

ITEM# T10010ANV
10" Wet Grinder Kit - Anniversary Edition

I don't have the anniversary edition but one similar to it. Cost is around $160.00 without shipping included.
Click to expand...
What accessories are needed? What dies it have/not have? Thanks.
 
WriteON said:
wolf creek knives said:
This is what I use to sharpen my tools. Got it from Grizzly probably 10 years ago and I use it for my initial shaping of my turning tools. After that initial shaping my tools see very little grinder time. I use an old stone with semi-rough on one side and fine on the other side to keep the tools sharp. I sharpen the tools between each item I've turned unless it's a very dense wood then I might sharpen the tool several times during the turning process. Works great for me but everyone does things differently. This is just how I handle sharpening my tools.

ITEM# T10010ANV
10" Wet Grinder Kit - Anniversary Edition

I don't have the anniversary edition but one similar to it. Cost is around $160.00 without shipping included.
Click to expand...
What accessories are needed? What dies it have/not have? Thanks.
Click to expand...

They offer a lot of accessories. I have several accessories that can be used for sharpening scissors, axes, chisels etc. What I found works best for me for my lathe tools is the round bar that comes with the unit. I set it at the height that gives me the angle I'm looking for and by rocking the tool back and forth I can get the shape I want. It's also very sharp when you get done and with the slow speed and water bath you don't have to worry about heat build up. I use HSS tools that I've had for many years and they are still working great.
 
wolf creek knives said:
WriteON said:
wolf creek knives said:
This is what I use to sharpen my tools. Got it from Grizzly probably 10 years ago and I use it for my initial shaping of my turning tools. After that initial shaping my tools see very little grinder time. I use an old stone with semi-rough on one side and fine on the other side to keep the tools sharp. I sharpen the tools between each item I've turned unless it's a very dense wood then I might sharpen the tool several times during the turning process. Works great for me but everyone does things differently. This is just how I handle sharpening my tools.

ITEM# T10010ANV
10" Wet Grinder Kit - Anniversary Edition

I don't have the anniversary edition but one similar to it. Cost is around $160.00 without shipping included.
Click to expand...
What accessories are needed? What dies it have/not have? Thanks.
Click to expand...

They offer a lot of accessories. I have several accessories that can be used for sharpening scissors, axes, chisels etc. What I found works best for me for my lathe tools is the round bar that comes with the unit. I set it at the height that gives me the angle I'm looking for and by rocking the tool back and forth I can get the shape I want. It's also very sharp when you get done and with the slow speed and water bath you don't have to worry about heat build up. I use HSS tools that I've had for many years and they are still working great.
Click to expand...

Thanks Wolf... I'm looking into all options.
 
I have the Grizzly wet grind which uses the Tormek accessories and I also have the Wolverine type system. After using both, I really like the Tormek's accessories much better. Tormeks accessories are built upon this:
https://www.amazon.com/Tormek-BGM10...1548266746&sr=8-8&keywords=Tormek+accessories

I wish I had broken down and purchased a couple of those and used that on my CBN wheels. But on my CBN wheels, I purchased a Savannah system similar to the Wolverine. It is good but I just got used to the Grizzly Tormek and it just feels different (better) to me.

Please keep in mind that the Tormek/Grizzly takes patience and time for "shaping" a tool, but once shaped, it is great!
 
I bought a couple Tormek sharpeners off Ebay. One with the standard wheel and the second with the extra fine water stone. I have just about every jig they sell for them. I shape and sharpen with the standard and use the extra fine to touch up. You get razor sharp tools with minimum metal removal. I set up and sharpen every chisel I own a few times a year, then touch up as needed. A sharp tool is a pleasure to use.
 
Very interesting. Never realized Sharpening is a specialty of it own and the equipment involved. I was hoping to simply flip a coin and buy a sharpener but there is a lot to choose from. I do not have a lot of space.... I'm thinking of setting up on a Worx portable/fold-up. Thank you for the replies. This is helpful.
 
I would google up Woodturners Wonders, and call Ken and get a slow speed Rikon grinder (his already have the jinky guards and stuff removed) and get a 180 grit and a 650 grit CBN wheels to use on em. This and a Wolverine jig with the vari-grind attachment--a necessity IMO and you'll be good to go--i have both a 1/2 horse and a 1HP on of these grinders, and the 1/2HP does fine, it just takes a few seconds to get up to speed.

Also the best all around tool for sharpener is a good quality belt sander, look at Kalmazoo and Viel units.....

Good Luck!!!
 
I'm getting my education... CBN or Belt. Here's the novice question.... Is honing a must do... and how is that done.
 
Thank you everyone for taking the time to reply. I'm zeroing in. The hardest part to accept is spending x amount and cramping to keep one chisel sharp. I'm as small time as it gets but can't do a job without the proper tools. Anyway I'm
enjoying the hunt. Thanks again
 
WriteON said:
I'm getting my education... CBN or Belt. Here's the novice question.... Is honing a must do... and how is that done.
Click to expand...

I know of people who do not hone and say that it is not necessary and they do fine. However, honing in my opinion does make a feel-able difference in the blade's cutting.

Honing is not complicated or hard. Look on Amazon or eBay for honing compound. I use the stick kind, put a dab on a strip of leather and swipe/drag the blade (laying along the angle) across the leather strop. Do this two or three times alternating sides as you do. Not much to it but it does smooth the edges. I do this three or for times during the turning of a pen, particularly with difficult and delicate blanks.

I have a Japanese friend that uses a 3 x 8 block of flat soft wood. He rubs compound on it and then does the swipe of the sharpened blade across the wood. It does the same thing.

Another way is to have a flat plate of glass with some 30 micron and 5 micron and 1 micron sand paper glued on it. Again, drag/swipe the blade across it once, twice or three times per side. With practice and experience, you will come to feel the difference in the way a honed blade edge cuts as compared to a non-honed blade.
 
I use a very odd "tool" for sharpening all my knives before they hit a customers hands. If you can find an old High Pressure Sodium Vapor lamp (like the old street lights), they have a glass rod on the inside that will "Hone" an edge faster than anything I've ever used before. Learned the trick from an old Lineman who sharpened his knives in the field.
 
wolf creek knives said:
I use a very odd "tool" for sharpening all my knives before they hit a customers hands. If you can find an old High Pressure Sodium Vapor lamp (like the old street lights), they have a glass rod on the inside that will "Hone" an edge faster than anything I've ever used before. Learned the trick from an old Lineman who sharpened his knives in the field.
Click to expand...

Would this have any value?
https://www.cuesplus.com/store/cue-...MIzJDv1aeJ4AIV2IKzCh3SVQh8EAQYAyABEgIT0_D_BwE
 
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Just suppose.... I got the Sorby plus. Can blanks be squared on it. Would a jig be needed? I'm working on an item with a 3/4" hole through it...Both ends need to be squared. Any experience Sorby owners out there?
 
WriteON said:
wolf creek knives said:
I use a very odd "tool" for sharpening all my knives before they hit a customers hands. If you can find an old High Pressure Sodium Vapor lamp (like the old street lights), they have a glass rod on the inside that will "Hone" an edge faster than anything I've ever used before. Learned the trick from an old Lineman who sharpened his knives in the field.
Click to expand...

Would this have any value?
https://www.cuesplus.com/store/cue-...MIzJDv1aeJ4AIV2IKzCh3SVQh8EAQYAyABEgIT0_D_BwE
Click to expand...

I don't know how this would work as it looks like glass to me. This rod, which actually came from a Mercury vapor street lamp, feels smooth to the touch but has a very fine texture to it. I don't know what makes this thing so nice but it puts one heck of an edge on blade steel.
 
Didn't see a suggestion yet to visit local/regional wood turning groups. Likely you will find others using an oval skew and you can try out their sharpening systems before you purchase anything. Even a 60 mile drive would be a bargain compared to purchasing sharpening system that doesn't work for you.
 
donstephan said:
Didn't see a suggestion yet to visit local/regional wood turning groups. Likely you will find others using an oval skew and you can try out their sharpening systems before you purchase anything. Even a 60 mile drive would be a bargain compared to purchasing sharpening system that doesn't work for you.
Click to expand...

I appreciate what you're saying. Would enjoy going to a supply store to loo and touch but nothing local. Have a Rockler 3 plus hours away. Can't
go up and back in one day. As for local groups maybe I'll look into one. As for all of the suggestions here I appreciate the quality of equipment and technique
the posters are replying with. They do things right. I'm leaning towards the Sorby for a few reasons. I'd use the belt for other things. Also the unit is complete out of the box.
 
I ordered the Sorby Plus. Will follow up. I might get a wheel system someday and will know what to look for as per your positive and helpful replies. Much appreciated. Frank

I bought it on Amazon from Hartville Hardware. Hartville also sells it on eBay and takes offers. Could have gotten it for much less but not a fan of eBay.
 
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WriteON said:
Is honing a must do... and how is that done.
Click to expand...

It's not so much "must" you hone, but rather why should you hone? The sharpening process leaves a somewhat irregular ragged burr edge, which in fact might cut very well (as when using a card scraper) but the edge probably wont last very long.
Honing with a strop supposedly packs the ragged metal shards back smoothly into the edge without necessarily removing any more metal. The theory is that this creates a more durable edge, which can be much more easily touched up with a few quick swipes of the strop between actual sharpenings. My strop is a simple piece of wood with a strip of leather glued to one side charged with stropping compound.

Nobody has yet mentioned what I think is the most helpful sharpening accessory of all, a sharpie. Use it to mark the entire bevel. Whatever system you use (for me, its Tormek then waterstones then strop, but I'm obsessed with Hannibal Lecter style sharpness), take a few passes with your system. If you are removing sharpie from the cutting edge only, you are increasing the bevel angle relative to the original grind. If this is not your intent, reduce the angle and try again. Conversely if you are removing sharpie only from the shoulder of the bevel. Once you have found your angle, only a small amount of metal needs to be removed.
 
Shock me said:
WriteON said:
Is honing a must do... and how is that done.
Click to expand...

It's not so much "must" you hone, but rather why should you hone? The sharpening process leaves a somewhat irregular ragged burr edge, which in fact might cut very well (as when using a card scraper) but the edge probably wont last very long.
Honing with a strop supposedly packs the ragged metal shards back smoothly into the edge without necessarily removing any more metal. The theory is that this creates a more durable edge, which can be much more easily touched up with a few quick swipes of the strop between actual sharpenings. My strop is a simple piece of wood with a strip of leather glued to one side charged with stropping compound.

Nobody has yet mentioned what I think is the most helpful sharpening accessory of all, a sharpie. Use it to mark the entire bevel. Whatever system you use (for me, its Tormek then waterstones then strop, but I'm obsessed with Hannibal Lecter style sharpness), take a few passes with your system. If you are removing sharpie from the cutting edge only, you are increasing the bevel angle relative to the original grind. If this is not your intent, reduce the angle and try again. Conversely if you are removing sharpie only from the shoulder of the bevel. Once you have found your angle, only a small amount of metal needs to be removed.
Click to expand...


This is a good piece of advice and as we continue to learn things this will help in your sharpening skills. I learned this trick a few years ago and use it every time I go to grinder.
 
Sharpening on a Belt Sander

I'm a little late to this thread, but I modified a Harbor Freight 4x36 belt sander for sharpening, per the instructions in this article.


I learned to sharpen tools (chisels, planes, axes, etc) by freehand from my dad & grandfather, so that's how I sharpen my turning tools also. As a result, I didn't bother to make any of the jigs or guides in the article.
 

Attachments

Should have the Sorby next week. I'm looking into having a custom squaring jig made for pen blanks and other things. RickH is the person for this. Good things are happening. The Sorby is expensive ( like everything else). I was having a cold sweat before pressing the CONFIRM PURCHASE button but I'm ok now. At least I'll be able to use it often.
 
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