Another hornet's nest?

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Tightbond did not show on red oak. I would be interested in hearing other peoples experance...

also what if you want a line to show? Maybe use black glue? I know knife makers sometimes mix color into epoxy for glueing wood onto knives to make it show....
 
I have used medium CA and had no visable glue line. On one project I did want a black glue line. So I used Medium CA and added finely ground coffe grounds for the black line. I have also not had Titebond II have any noticeable glue lines.

Ryan
 
Glue-ups and inlays are the only time I use CA. I started using it at Ed Davidson's suggestion as I think he has some of the tightest glue-ups I've ever seen. As long as the surfaces are very smooth, you shouldn't have a problem. I've also used 5-minute epoxy successfully. Titebond should work, but I've not tried it. I probably wouldn't try Gorilla Glue but that's no reason not to. A thick glue line will only show if you want it to or if the pieces are not perfectly mated. Jeff, there's "dark wood" Titebond (and other manufacturers like Elmer's) and black CA. Either should produce a fine dark line.
 
I used Titebond II for my earlier laminations. I found a couple things about Titebond:

1. Titebond produces a strong joint when the grain runs along the glued surfaces. It is not as strong when joining end grain.

2. When I joined dark and light woods, some of the color from the dark wood bled into the light wood.

3. The glue line was othersize very thin.

Recently I have been using epoxy for laminated and segmented pens, or to make larger blanks.

Hope this helps.
 
I only use CA for hardening and finishing. I use epoxy for everything else...especially glue ups and tube gluing. The 5 minute epoxy is great for this kind of work.
 
I ran into a problem last week using medium CA on a lamination requested by a customer. The base wood was a ribbon grained redwood with bands of maple on a diagonal. It is a very porous, light wood. It soaked into the wood about 1/16th of an inch, discoloring the wood (darkening it significantly. I thought I would salvage it by doing a CA finish, but the finishing application did not penetrate in the same way as the lamination. I did a second on using titebond with no problems.
Richard
 
Thanks a lot guys and gals...

I have seen some really interesting pens using laminations and various glue-up, and would really like to try my hand. I am shooting toward a natural orange and maroon pen for my sons college (VT since you asked[;)]).

Don't let me hold up the glue discussion, please add your thoughts!!

Thanks again!
 
I use "Super T " for most of my glue-ups . The pic shows the glue line between 2 different colors of Dymondwood that I glued up . Super T gives you aroung 45-50 seconds to work and it's about the consistency of molasses.

9154935_Dymondwood%20Pen%20Trans.%20001-1%20Marked.jpg
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