Another "DUH" Question

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kooseman

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Hi everyone,
I'm another brand new pen turner full of D?s so please bear with me.
I have turned 3 pens in my pen turning career thus far and I'd like to know how close to the bushings does the finished pen have to be. Are the blank ends flush or can there be a small lip? Just wondering if there is a standard or if it's simply a matter of personal taste/preference. Thanks again for any advice. At this point, I'll take all I can get.
 
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I don't think it matters if there is a lip. My preferance is the have the end flush with the nip/cap. I just don't care of the lip against my fingers when I am writting.
 
To start make your pens slightly proud and then barely round the ends where they meet the hardware so the lip is less noticeable. Then as you improve that lip needs to disappear. Eventually you will make them slightly undersized so that the ca finish you apply brings them back flush. Part of where you end up will depend on your abilities as a turner and your personal "thats good enough" level. The better pens have no lip at all and that just takes practice.
 
RE Duh ?

Thanks Mike. I see you're RET Navy. I put 12 in the AF and called it quits way back when. Let me ask you. Do center bands come in varying thicknesses?
If I do I slimline pen and I want a fatter band (still 7 mm.) is that possible?
 
kooseman said:
Hi everyone,
I'm another brand new pen turner full of D?s so please bear with me.
I have turned 3 pens in my pen turning career thus far and I'd like to know how close to the bushings does the finished pen have to be. Are the blank ends flush or can there be a small lip? Just wondering if there is a standard or if it's simply a matter of personal taste/preference. Thanks again for any advice. At this point, I'll take all I can get.
Click to expand...

If you don't have a set of calipers, you need to pick a set up. I prefer electronic. The bushings you receive from the suppliers are notoriously wrong sized. They are either a tad big or small. Also they will be worn as you turn with them. Use the calipers to measure each pen component where it meets the wood. Use your bushings to get close to that size, then use the calipers to dial it in. In my personal opinion one should not be able to detect the transition between wood and component.
 
kooseman said:
Thanks Mike. I see you're RET Navy. I put 12 in the AF and called it quits way back when. Let me ask you. Do center bands come in varying thicknesses?
If I do I slimline pen and I want a fatter band (still 7 mm.) is that possible?
Click to expand...

Take a look at Mr. Russ Fairfield's web site for modification of the slimline. He teaches a few ways to eliminate the center band. Mr. Fairfield is no longer with us, but he left a wonderful resource for us to use.
http://www.woodturnerruss.com/Pens.html

Thank you for you service to our country. You fly boy were always fun to fight with when the Jar Heads were occupied elsewhere. :smile:
 
I actually have started using calipers to compare my actual 'kit parts', as there always seems to be some slight difference from the bushings. Does it really matter? I hope it does.....



Scott (caliper cause my eyeballs are getting old) B
 
Here is a great link I like to share. It is Kurt Hertzog's articles he has published in Woodturning Design. I have read them many times over and they helped me step up my pens early on.

The articles are the 1st set listed "Journey from Penturning to Penmaking" but there are some other articles as well.

http://kurthertzog.com/demos.htm
 
kooseman said:
Thanks Mike. I see you're RET Navy. I put 12 in the AF and called it quits way back when. Let me ask you. Do center bands come in varying thicknesses?
If I do I slimline pen and I want a fatter band (still 7 mm.) is that possible?
Click to expand...
If you want a fatter band, there is the methods already mentioned. However, there is also the Eurp/Designer, Streamline/Trimline/etc..., and the Comfort. All are basically 7mm kits with different center bands and different clips. The Euro is also different in the finial, and most require a tennon (PSI came out with a "non-tennon" center band for their Designer series).

I've even done mine without center bands sometimes.
 
I also recommend measure the hardware and turning to size with calipers.
I also recommend creating your own center bands, as your stock of spare pen parts grows, you can also mix and match. I have 40 designer center bands and clips left over from a graduation pen project I did earlier this year. I plan on using these in different pens over time most likely modified slims, I'll have to turn a tenon but who cares?

Terry
 
THANKS for all the fantastic advice you all provided. One thing sure . . . practice!
That and a few (hundred) helpful tips from the experts never hurt either!
Thanks again.
 
Preference

It is really a matter of personal preference. Particularily with slimlines where the pen body shape is sort of "free form". I have seen a lot of different shapes on slims and a fair number where the body is left very much proud of the tip cap and centerband or where the centerband is eliminated altogether. I left the tip and cap proud and rounded them a little when sanding....If it looks like it was done on purpose it's probably OK.
 
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