Another CA Question...this one baffles me.

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
W

witz1976

Member
Joined
Jun 28, 2009
Messages
2,144
Location
Bucksport, Maine, USA
So I laid on a nice thick CA finish last night, went to sand it off and it was all milky. Ok, figured I screwed up as I was using BLO. So this time I figured I would sand as soon as I was done with the CA. Noticed a swirling milky mess in the middle of the blank, took off everything again and went for the hat trick. Same thing happened. Frustrated I went upstairs to complain to my fiencee' and about 20 minutes later the milkiness is gone and the finish looks good.

The only thing I could think of is perhaps it generated too much heat.

For added info, the blank was stabilized fiddleback Koa, basement is around 60 degs. about 45% humidity. CA should be still fresh, about 4 months old. BLO is new.

Any ideas?:question:
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
Did you apply BLO before putting on the CA?

Not sure if you did that but, if you did then, the milkiness can be attributed to the oil not being dry under the CA. Apply the CA first and the BLO after that. BLO then acts as a lubricant and accelerator for the CA and not a wood finish.
:wink::wink::wink:
 
I might speculate that the CA reacted with the stabilizing agent.

IF you can, try waiting a day or two after the pen is done before applying CA or BLO and see if you get the cloudy reaction.

Or, look at it the other way

You have a good result, now,
DON'T ASK QUESTIONS!!​

You've been here since June, I hope you will know I am kidding!!​
 
Well the CA/BLO method I learned was to put about 4 - 5 drops of BLO then cover the BLO with 4 - 5 drops of CA. I will try the other way, and I will try less BLO.

As for the pen now...so far still looks good.

Oh and Ed... you are way too mean to newbies such as I. I would appreciate a little more sympathy.


(See I can kid too :D)
 
On oily woods and some stabilized blanks a wipe down with DNA and a coat of mylands wood sealer helps the finishing process.
Mark
 
It's milky, in my opinion, because the CA doesn't want to cure on top of a pool of oil. Strip back to bare wood, wipe down thoroughly with acetone or DNA, let thorougly dry, and start with a few coats of thin CA with no BLO. I did not start to have success with CA finishes until I stopped using BLO.
 
I think it's fascinating -- and utterly confusing, too -- that half the folks here can't get a good CA finish with BLO, and the other half can't get a good CA finish without BLO!
 
PaulSF said:
I think it's fascinating -- and utterly confusing, too -- that half the folks here can't get a good CA finish with BLO, and the other half can't get a good CA finish without BLO!
Click to expand...

CA/BLO or CA by itself - These are a quick learn for some, yet has a long learning curve for others.

Some just get it and some have to learn slowly. It is not the CA/BLO - CA per se, it is individual learning styles and adaptability to the variables . This is not meant as a demeanor at all but there are all kinds of folks out there.

I have a cousin that has little observation and deductive reasoning skills and little artistic ability. However, give him a list and a detailed set of plans, lots of time (for understanding the steps) and he can make beautiful woodwork. Me - Make it up as I go.

Many parts of pen turning is like that and CA/BLO or no BLO - is no different.
 
Last edited:
It was interesting as when I first experimented with CA/BLO I was using cheap wooden dowels that I bought from the hardware store. Every one of them came out great with no issues. Tried it on pens and started having issues. I am starting to believe that some materials will be harder to finish that others. Which is frustrating and fun at the same time.
 
If you like the BLO look you can "cook" it once you've applied it to the wood. Spin the lathe up and put a few drops of BLO on a paper towel. Then apply just enough pressure to the spinning wood for it to get warm. Go back and forth a few times to keep from burning the towel or the blank. Let the blank cool then try your CA again.
 
"Cooking" CA

DurocShark said:
If you like the BLO look you can "cook" it once you've applied it to the wood. Spin the lathe up and put a few drops of BLO on a paper towel. Then apply just enough pressure to the spinning wood for it to get warm. Go back and forth a few times to keep from burning the towel or the blank. Let the blank cool then try your CA again.
Click to expand...

Yeah, this is the way I've always done it. I saw my first BLO/CA finish applied in the following youtube video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=orcgOf4siqc&feature=channel_page

It worked for me right away; I've never had a cloudy finish.

But in recent postings and tutorials, we learn that 'heat is the enemy' when drilling, turning, and finishing wooden pen barrels. I really like the look of ebony and have a bit of a stock of it. I found with the above method that about ¾ of the finished barrels cracked within days or weeks of being finished, to the point that I quit trying to make ebony pens. Possibly much of this cracking is due to poor technique causing heat buildup at various stages?

I'm so happy with the above method that I can't image trying to learn a new one… Old. Dog. Tricks. Ya know…?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom