Another Bushing question

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Chasboy1

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Jan 11, 2019
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Hi folks, I'm debating whether to order the PKSHAKEBU bushing kit for 3 pens or just turn the pieces between centers. One concern is that with the kit I can turn the pieces together on the mandrel instead of individually between centers. The second is that I worry that the required pressure to keep the blank from catching when between centers can distort the brass tube. I have no problem using calipers and a micrometer.
Any advice appreciated!
 
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mick

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Hi folks, I'm debating whether to order the PKSHAKEBU bushing kit for 3 pens or just turn the pieces between centers. One concern is that with the kit I can turn the pieces together on the mandrel instead of individually between centers. The second is that I worry that the required pressure to keep the blank from catching when between centers can distort the brass tube. I have no problem using calipers and a micrometer.
Any advice appreciated!
I finish all mine between centers and never had any problem cranking it tight enough to split the blank. If you're worried about catches round the blank off on the sander or bandsaw. I think you'll be ok. On the other hand you may like the pen and find it popular enough you have to make more. In that case I'd order the bushings... not that big an investment. Good luck!

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magpens

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I think that calipers are sufficient .... don't think you need a micrometer.

My advice with the SHAKE ..... turn just a little oversize. . I seem to recall that the bushings are a shade too small.

I like the concept of the SHAKE
 

Dehn0045

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If you have a set of bushings for the same size tube you can use those to get down closer to size. Once you get close to round shape it requires a lot less pressure between centers. Knocking off square corners can be frustrating between centers. I usually just turn round before drilling, but I have some bushings too so I'll use them to get close to diameter and finish off between centers.
 

jttheclockman

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I am with Sam on this but also agree if you think more of these kits are in your future than by all means get the bushings. I do as others do I turn down to just before final dimentions then between centers with skew and finish with MM between centers.
 

leehljp

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While on this topic, is it worthwhile getting a metric micrometer
It IS fun to have one! With wood and cast material Mal is correct. I have had one bout 5 years and haven't used it yet for a pen. It was my intention to make my nib ends and make aluminum or brass barrels to insert a slimline or other transmission into it. IF you decide to make all your parts on a metal lathe or metal parts on a wood lathe, then it can come in handy.
 

mick

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It IS fun to have one! With wood and cast material Mal is correct. I have had one bout 5 years and haven't used it yet for a pen. It was my intention to make my nib ends and make aluminum or brass barrels to insert a slimline or other transmission into it. IF you decide to make all your parts on a metal lathe or metal parts on a wood lathe, then it can come in handy.
Haha! Me too. I've had one for 15yrs and it's never been out of the box!

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Dr_N

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I turn all my two-blank pens (like Slimline and cigar), one blank at a time. In my case, I have issues with turning the father I get from the head stock, so the second blank never turns as smoothly. I sand and finish them both on the mandrel together.

I guess what I'm getting at, is that if you have the setup to turn between centers and a decent set of calipers I would turn them individually that way, rather than using bushings.
 

Chasboy1

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Thank you all! What I've gleaned from the advice is the realization that I could be using my Nova chuck and live center to round the blanks, and I could cut them to length after the fact and insert the tubes. Then I could do the final work between centers.
 

magpens

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I could be using my Nova chuck and live center to round the blanks, and I could cut them to length after the fact and insert the tubes. Then I could do the final work between centers.

@Chasboy1

Just to reinforce what you have already said .......
The first thing I do with a pen blank is round it .... turning between centers. . The next step is to cut to length (+ a bit extra), just as you said.
An advantage of this procedure is that you can next drill ... on the lathe ... to the size required for your brass tube.
Drilling on the lathe (with a rounded blank) is probably the best way to get an accurately sized and centered hole.
In my opinion, having an accurately sized and centered hole makes all subsequent "turning-between-centers" steps so much easier.

Also, before you drill, I find that it is very helpful to make the blank ends square to the axis of the rounded blank. . The squaring operation can be done on a disc or belt sander. . You can also square the ends on the lathe. . On a woodworking lathe, that requires a bit of practice to get it right.

[Just for your interest, I do all my pen making on a metal-working lathe. . On such a lathe, the end-squaring is very much easier to do by virtue of the fact that a metal-working lathe is designed with precision features to facilitate this type of operation. . Not so for a woodworking lathe, which is designed more for "artistic" shaping of materials.]
 

Chasboy1

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I was a Metal shop teacher and was 'spoiled' by the inherent ability of machine tools. However,I have a Shopsmith, which is basically a wood lathe. I use the ability of the saw table, rip fence and lockable miter gauge to make a jig that allows me to use the drill press as a horizontal boring machine. That's why I bore the holes first, because when it's still square, I can secure it to the 'jig'. I have a tail stock and a Nova G3 chuck, but no way to hold a drill in the tailstock. The only way to feed the material would be to operate the quill while the chuck held It.
If I changed my order of operation where I could bore the hole, round the stock using the Nova chuck and live center, then cut to length, glue the tubes, then square the ends, I would then only have to shape already round stock to its final size. Would that work?
Regarding the creation of my own bushings, unfortunately the only way I can shape metal is to hold it in the chuck and use my files. I understand that I could use wood, I have some hard cherry, maple and ebony, and lots of acrylic scraps. I just wonder if it's worth the effort. Of course if I had a metal lathe we wouldn't be having this conversation.
 

darrin1200

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I was a Metal shop teacher and was 'spoiled' by the inherent ability of machine tools. However,I have a Shopsmith, which is basically a wood lathe. I use the ability of the saw table, rip fence and lockable miter gauge to make a jig that allows me to use the drill press as a horizontal boring machine. That's why I bore the holes first, because when it's still square, I can secure it to the 'jig'. I have a tail stock and a Nova G3 chuck, but no way to hold a drill in the tailstock. The only way to feed the material would be to operate the quill while the chuck held It.
If I changed my order of operation where I could bore the hole, round the stock using the Nova chuck and live center, then cut to length, glue the tubes, then square the ends, I would then only have to shape already round stock to its final size. Would that work?
Regarding the creation of my own bushings, unfortunately the only way I can shape metal is to hold it in the chuck and use my files. I understand that I could use wood, I have some hard cherry, maple and ebony, and lots of acrylic scraps. I just wonder if it's worth the effort. Of course if I had a metal lathe we wouldn't be having this conversation.


If your looking for a one-off bushing, I would use the acrylic before I used wood. Heat and moisture will affect the wood causing its own potential problems. You could use Aluminum or Brass. Before I got my metal lathe, I turned both of these on my wood lathe. Probably softer than some of the real exotic woods.
 

dogrunner

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Mar 23, 2014
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I don't use bushings at all. I just turn between centers using a set of callipers.
 
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