pipemaker
Member
I have been using aniline dyes for some time now in conjunction with my pipemaking, and more recently with pencrafting.
Here are a few observations that I would like to share regarding these dyes.
Aniline dyes produce the best results when used to enhance or shift the natural color of the wood, rather than completely changing it. Dyeing a piece of Holly or Birch, say red or blue, will not produce an acceptable result.
Dye performs the best on hard dense, non oily woods, although I have achieved some beautiful results on relatively soft woods.
A black undercoat, well sanded before applying the top color will enhance the grain and add some contrast to most wood.
Penetration of aniline dye is minimal, and when dry, it will leave a thin layer of powder on the surface of the wood. This is best removed with a light buffing.
These dyes can be finished with most products that are not alcohol or water based.
Most of the compounded waxes will remove some amount of dye if applied directly over it.
I have yet to find an aniline dye that is 100% fade proof. Red, Orange and woodtones seem to be the most fade resistant. Having said that, I have not had any real problems with fading. Most of my pipes are finished with only Carnuba wax, and I have some examples that are over six years old that exhibit no fade at all. The holds true to other woodworking projects that I have dyed. It appears that virtually any finish applied over aniline dye significantly reduces the effects of fading.
My own technique for finishing a dyed pen is to sand to 12,000 MM and apply an undercoat of black dye. After an hour, I will resand to 12,000 until almost all of the color is removed.
I personally prefer Fiebings leather dye for it's penetration and clean colors. Because it dries slightly slower than most other analine dye, it is easier to apply an even coat.
I use a piece of cheesecloth to apply the top color, with the barrels held stationary. This results in even coloring.
After several hours, or overnight, I will buff with extra fine tan compound and then apply the finish. I have had success with lacquers, Ca/Blo, poly and Tung oil varnish. Avoid shellac as this will dissolve the dye. It is best to experiment first with water based finishes, as some will react with the dye.
A top coat of TSW finishes the process.
As with all finishing techniques, there is plenty of opportunity for experiment and refinement, and aniline dye presents another technique to achieve an attractive finish.
Mike
Here are a few observations that I would like to share regarding these dyes.
Aniline dyes produce the best results when used to enhance or shift the natural color of the wood, rather than completely changing it. Dyeing a piece of Holly or Birch, say red or blue, will not produce an acceptable result.
Dye performs the best on hard dense, non oily woods, although I have achieved some beautiful results on relatively soft woods.
A black undercoat, well sanded before applying the top color will enhance the grain and add some contrast to most wood.
Penetration of aniline dye is minimal, and when dry, it will leave a thin layer of powder on the surface of the wood. This is best removed with a light buffing.
These dyes can be finished with most products that are not alcohol or water based.
Most of the compounded waxes will remove some amount of dye if applied directly over it.
I have yet to find an aniline dye that is 100% fade proof. Red, Orange and woodtones seem to be the most fade resistant. Having said that, I have not had any real problems with fading. Most of my pipes are finished with only Carnuba wax, and I have some examples that are over six years old that exhibit no fade at all. The holds true to other woodworking projects that I have dyed. It appears that virtually any finish applied over aniline dye significantly reduces the effects of fading.
My own technique for finishing a dyed pen is to sand to 12,000 MM and apply an undercoat of black dye. After an hour, I will resand to 12,000 until almost all of the color is removed.
I personally prefer Fiebings leather dye for it's penetration and clean colors. Because it dries slightly slower than most other analine dye, it is easier to apply an even coat.
I use a piece of cheesecloth to apply the top color, with the barrels held stationary. This results in even coloring.
After several hours, or overnight, I will buff with extra fine tan compound and then apply the finish. I have had success with lacquers, Ca/Blo, poly and Tung oil varnish. Avoid shellac as this will dissolve the dye. It is best to experiment first with water based finishes, as some will react with the dye.
A top coat of TSW finishes the process.
As with all finishing techniques, there is plenty of opportunity for experiment and refinement, and aniline dye presents another technique to achieve an attractive finish.
Mike
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