Aluminum for pen

[Shelt71]

Hi, i have never turned a pen made from Aluminum before, and was curious if anyone knows where there is a thread for a tutorial? I have searched and could not find anything. I am most surious in what grade, tooling, finish(although i have found on the site that no finish seems to be what allot of people perfer). Thanks for any help.

 

[mredburn]

Johnnycnc has kits and instructions on his web site http://www.penturnersproducts.com/ hope it helps. Mike

 

[bracky1]

Get the bar size as near as possible to your finished size as it's a slow process to turn. You are maybe taking off a max of 0.5mm at a time. Scraper or gouge, it's much the same.
Wet sand with "wet and dry" and polish with "brasso" or similar metal polish.
Take your time, don't run the lathe too fast and make sure your tools are sharp.

 

[holmqer]

I would recommend 6061-T6 aluminum which is very machineable, anodizes well and is readily available, but some of the other 6000 series aluminum will do as well. 6063-T52 or 6262-T6511.

 

[Ligget]

Get the bar size as near as possible to your finished size as it's a slow process to turn. You are maybe taking off a max of 0.5mm at a time. Scraper or gouge, it's much the same.
Wet sand with "wet and dry" and polish with "brasso" or similar metal polish.
Take your time, don't run the lathe too fast and make sure your tools are sharp.

I do the same as Brian, however, if you want a satin finish miss out the Brasso step!

 

[mickr]

haven't seen a HUT catalog in a long time, but they used to have aluminum pen kits..might want to try one first...

 

[DurocShark]

Regular twist drill bits work better than brad-point bits. The brad-point bits dull too quick in aluminum.

 

[wholesaleneon]

I made an aluminum slimline pen, with no center band. It came it out pretty well. I used 4043, because 6061 is more structural than you need for a pen. 4043 is softer and cuts easier. But i also use a metal lathe.

 

[Chuck Key]

T2011 is super easy to turn and and polish.

 

[j.d.sackett]

aluminum

another thing you might want to try is rounding off the tip of your cutter slightly. aluminum is soft and cuts pretty easily and will groove really fast. i found that if you put a small radius on the cutter, it makes nicer cuts and less finish work in the end. i make all my pens out of metal, once you do a couple of em, its not that hard. 6061 is a little harder, but will hold a polish better. have fun. regards, j.d.

 

[MHKogan]

We manufacture M3 metal composite pen blanks and offer forum members a 20% discount. We do make a solid aluminum blank. While it might cost a little more than plain aluminum it will turn easier with standard (sharp) tools and will achieve our M3 gem quality finish. We also make stainless steel, damascus, mokume gane and other metal composite blanks.

You can learn more about our material at our website www.MetalPenBlanks.com . Be sure to enter "IAP" into the coupon field to get your 20% discount.

 

[jttheclockman]

Used 6061 grade al. 3/4" round blank. Used normal woodworking tools. Roughing gouge to get close and finished with skew. Wet sanded to 2000 grit and final passes with a nonwoven pad to give the brushed aluminum look. Hides finger prints better.

Thinks to do

--Always cover the bed and motor and VS box are to prevent filings going in.
--Always wet sand using black automotive sandpaper
--wear eye protection and be careful of filings
-- when drilling do step drilling, start small and work your way up.
-- use a lubricant such as wd40
--glue tubes in with epoxy
--Have Fun

 

[Rollerbob]

Wow John, really sharp looking cigar. You did a great job finishing the aluminum!:wink: Why the wet auto sanding vs mm? The one I made I used mm, is the wet automotive paper better?

 

[jttheclockman]

Wow John, really sharp looking cigar. You did a great job finishing the aluminum!:wink: Why the wet auto sanding vs mm? The one I made I used mm, is the wet automotive paper better?

Thanks Bob. Auto sandpaper is made for metal. Cuts easier and also the black from the aluminum will mess of the micromesh. Too expensive for that. If you were able to use the MM then great but I prefer the aoutmotive paper.

 

[Rollerbob]

Thanks Bob. Auto sandpaper is made for metal. Cuts easier and also the black from the aluminum will mess of the micromesh. Too expensive for that. If you were able to use the MM then great but I prefer the aoutmotive paper.

I used the MM prolly cause I didn't know better.:redface: Will give the auto sandpaper a try, thanks:wink:

 

[wolftat]

Used 6061 grade al. 3/4" round blank. Used normal woodworking tools. Roughing gouge to get close and finished with skew. Wet sanded to 2000 grit and final passes with a nonwoven pad to give the brushed aluminum look. Hides finger prints better.

Thinks to do

--Always cover the bed and motor and VS box are to prevent filings going in.
--Always wet sand using black automotive sandpaper
--wear eye protection and be careful of filings
-- when drilling do step drilling, start small and work your way up.
-- use a lubricant such as wd40
--glue tubes in with epoxy
--Have Fun

John, I want to start by saying nice looking pen. When you are drilling it out, why don't you just drill to the proper size and forget about using the tubes? I have done this several times and it has worked out great for me since the tubes are really unnecessary when you are using a solid material.

 

[jttheclockman]

John, I want to start by saying nice looking pen. When you are drilling it out, why don't you just drill to the proper size and forget about using the tubes? I have done this several times and it has worked out great for me since the tubes are really unnecessary when you are using a solid material.

Yes that has been thought of. The reason I did not was the flexibility in the brass as opposed to the aluminum. In that I meant the brass will give more when installing the tranny and other parts. I may try it on others down the road. Alot of people do it that way also. I also want to try coloring the aluminum. I bought some candy apple powdercoating colors so that is in my future too.

 

[workinforwood]

I like the aluminum That Johnny CNC sells. It is pre-drilled for whatever kit you want to use. You don't use tubes, you just press the parts in. You don't have to square the ends, he mills them for you, and he uses an aluminum that is easy to machine. It's a good deal!

And yes...I agree that cigar looks great John!