Aluminum Anodizing

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jcollazo

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Joined
Apr 3, 2006
Messages
714
Location
Bellflower, CA, USA.
A number of you have purchased aluminum pen blanks from me and others have made their own. The one question that keeps coming up is "how can I finish this so the fingerprints are minimized"?

In the next week I plan on offering an anodizing service for aluminum (6061) blanks. In the beginning the options will be a clear and a black anodizing. I haven't completely worked out the pricing, but it will be along the lines of what it would cost to have a pen lasered.

So, what would you like to see? What questions do you have? I'm gonna get ready for school!

Thanks
 
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Sounds interesting. Would we return the turned blanks to you or the entire pen? I assume that we would have any engraving done before anodizing. Am I right?

Marc
 
Sounds interesting. Would we return the turned blanks to you or the entire pen? I assume that we would have any engraving done before anodizing. Am I right?

Engraving would usually be done after anodizing. It would have a nice, bright effect.

The way I would handle the anodizing is that The aluminim blank would be sold with either a anodizing or non-anodizing price. The anodized price would include a return envelope for after the blank is turned. After anodizing the blank would be returned to you.

I'm still work on the pricing but something along the lines of $3.50-$4.00 for the first blank and $2.00-$2.50 for additional blanks (in the same order) is what I'm looking at.
 
Long ago I saw an article that described how to anodize and then dye AL any color you wanted. Paul makes his vises in red now. Not sure if he does it himself.
 
Engraving anodized aluminum

Just to give you an idea of how anodized aluminum looks when laser engraved, here is a picture of an anodized multi-tool that I did recently.
MultiTool_x500.jpg


Regards,
Eric
 
Long ago I saw an article that described how to anodize and then dye AL any color you wanted. Paul makes his vises in red now. Not sure if he does it himself.

I would love to do it myself, but I don't. I have looked at several articles, and there is a guy somewhere out there in cyber space that has a set up that the home do-er can get and set up. I get the vise parts done locally, and they have a minimum charge per color, so the more parts per batch, the cheaper per piece.
 
I have a small setup that would be perfect for pens. I've been using it to anodize the projects I'm doing at school (school's going very well for this old guy, thank you). It's not a difficult process, just something that you have to concentrate on. Playing with sodium hydroxide and sulfuric acid shouldn't be taken lightly.
 
Joe;

I'm interested in doing a couple of the blanks I just received when their turned. I was thinking of having a jeweler to do cut engraving - nothing fancy, just tiny initials and maybe a small logo. Which is why I asked about timing. Can you anodize after that kind of engraving?

Marc
 
I can anodize after engraving, that's not a problem. If, however, the engraving was color filled, the ano process will remove the color and make the engraving the same color as the rest of the blank.
 
Joe, I bought some blanks from you and turned one. Pretty easy to turn but finishing them is a mess. Any ideas how to finish before you anodize them?

First, let me say that anodizing does not hide anything. If it's there before the ano process, it'll be there afterwards.

With that being said, if you have a a good, even, metal finish after turning (a skew is best); no scratches, bumps, dips, etc., put the blank in a plastic baggie and you're done.

Now, if you are having a problem getting that nice, even, metal finish, here's a link to a page I posted about how JohnnyCNC finishes his aluminum blanks: http://www.penturners.org/forum/showpost.php?p=750013&postcount=5

A real important point is to use the WD-40, or any type of cutting fluid. This goes a long way to getting a good finish with little or no sanding.
 
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