Alternatives to CA finish?

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spnemo

spnemo

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Joined
Aug 21, 2010
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261
Location
Tustin, MI
Hi all! I'm fairly new to pen turning (6 months). I am still improving my CA finish technique but I don't always like the hard shiny finish on some pens. On other pens, I have trouble getting the CA to stick to the oily wood. My question is: If I didn't want to use a CA finish, what finish would you recommend?
 
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Stay with the CA. As you gain experience, all things CA will get better. You will develop a routine that works consistently, and quickly. The final appearance can be deep gloss to satin, just by how far you go with sanding, polishing and buffing. Precleaning with solvent (Acetone, DNA, etc.) work out well for most oily woods. The enduring protective qualities of CA are very, very good. This is why most making pens here settle out to CA as their standard finish, and do other finishes as the exception, for special effects or other reasons. Just my opinion.
 
CA first if not practical then Lacquer and if I have weeks to get it done wipe on poly, But Poly can be done in a sunny climate by waiting 20 to 30 minutes and applying with a very soft brush, (learned that on the Aussie Forum)
 
I just watched a demo in which the turner just used oil and carnuba wax. It gave the wood a much mor natural look. How does this finish hold up over time?
 
I have had a lot of success using 3 coats of woodturners polish mixed 50/50 with Bekhol followed by 3 coats of carnuba wax.
 
I might have to try the plexi finish. I have tons of that stuff in my basement and acetone dosn't cost much. If it works, that could save me from buying bunches of CA glue!
 
I dont believe that all woods need to be encased in plastic. Should you make a pen out of western ceder you will loose the ceder smell that some find attractive. For this situation I simply use the 3 wheel buffing system. Of course, over time the pretty finish will go away but it will be replaced by a more natural patina and still smell like ceder.
 
I have several friends who prefer the natural wood look. I have been using mylands, but I use a lot of tung oil in flatwork finishes. How does it do for a pen finish. On flatwork I just apply about 8-10 coats of tung oil. All my kitchen cabinets and bathroom cabinets are in tung oil. I can just give them a quick wipedown with a tung oil soaked cloth once a year and they look brand new again. They are 45 year old Lauan.
 
JimB said:
Poly is a good althernative but the cure time between coats is much longer. I wait 24 hours for each coat. I also do CA/BLO.
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I use Minwax Wipe-on Poly. I've tried ca and other finishes as well. I usually use 4-6 coats depending on the wood, sometimes more. It dries quickly, so you can put another coat on within an hour or 2. It also works excellent when you're combining mediums such as acrylic and wood, on the same pen. As with ca, you need to use something to help remove some of the oils in the oilier woods.

After your last coat, its best to let it sit a day before handling.
 
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