agony and ecstasy of cutting root ball

[low_48]

This is a first for me. I decided to bring home a cherry root ball from the recycling area. Here are the highs and lows of the adventure so far. An incredible cross section, but notice the black area the size of a penny, and the change of cut? That's gravel and dirt, ARGH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!![xx(][xx(][xx(] In fact that's the second bandsaw blade. The first little "bump" was a piece of granite the size of a whole pecan. I'm not stopping, but the cost of blanks going up!!!!! Not really, a friend gave me some blade stock that I weld up at work. I sure do hate changing blades all the time though, and the roll won't last forever. Anyway there will be some blanks available latter.

 

[Dario]

I know the feeling so well...though it is my chainsaw that usually encounters the rocks.[xx(]

Nice wood though and sure worth the trouble.

Good luck!!!

 

[youngturner]

I know what you mean too!!

I have been cutting up lots of mallee roots lately which are full of sand, dirt and rocks! all it takes is one or two roots and the blade is dull. You might want to look into sharpening your own blades, I have started doing this and is working out good.

Mark.

 

[Randy_]

Originally posted by youngturner
<br />.....I have been cutting up lots of mallee roots lately which are full of sand, dirt and rocks! all it takes is one or two roots and the blade is dull. You might want to look into sharpening your own blades.....

Would a carbide blade be more economical in the long run?? I'm sure it would be a painful investment up front.

 

[youngturner]

I have looked at the carbide blades and they are very expensive and I don't no that they would last much longer than the carbon ones when it some to cutting mallee roots.

What I have started doing is using a 1" blade with 2tpi. With only 2tpi it doesn't take as long to sharpen. I have got about 5 sharpens from the one blade so far. I use a rotary tool (dremel) with an abrasive bit and just lightly touch the tip. If you do a quick search on the net you will find some detailed instructions on this.

Mark.

 

[Dario]

I too re-sharpen my bandsaw blades...I usually get about 3-5 runs before it starts to "wander" and cut crooked. At that point I replace it. I also use dremel using a lapidary bit (diamond abrassive).

I inquired with Suffolk Machinery about their Timberwolf blades...specifically if the carbide tipped will out last the carbon ones. The answer is yes on clean wood. I was told that with dirty wood, they will last almost the same time...thus it is not recommended.

 

[Johnathan]

Looks like the not-so-fun experience is going to give you some great looking blanks!

 

[Rifleman1776]

Originally posted by Dario
<br />I too re-sharpen my bandsaw blades...I usually get about 3-5 runs before it starts to "wander" and cut crooked. At that point I replace it. I also use dremel using a lapidary bit (diamond abrassive).

I inquired with Suffolk Machinery about their Timberwolf blades...specifically if the carbide tipped will out last the carbon ones. The answer is yes on clean wood. I was told that with dirty wood, they will last almost the same time...thus it is not recommended.

That's a big "Atta boy" for Suffolk. Good people to do business with. They tell the truth. They easily could have sold you an expensive carbide.

 

[jodoidg]

I always learn after doing the wrong thing. Put a brand new carbide blade on last fall to cut up a walnut tree. Diden't last long! Called the "good people" at Suffolk, they informed me carbide was not good for green wood. Bought 2 of the AS-S Steel blades from them and have been happy as a pig in sawdust. Still haven't needed to changed the blade[]